ktm

You do not want to drill into your frame rails on your Z. The sway bar mounting points have captive nuts inside of the frame rail. You do not want to drill through the rail either, as you will crush the rail when you tighten the bracket bolts. As for your original question regarding aftermarket parts, you are mixing and matching components (unknown sway bar, ES bushing, Summit universal bracket) and you EXPECT that everything will fit like OEM?

He did not buy the bar from Summit, but rather a Z shop near his house. He bought the ES bushings and brackets from Summit.

+12345

For a 'themed' paint job, that would look VERY nice.

Dogma, a throwout collar from a '4-speed' tranny will fit a 5-speed tranny just fine. The throwout collar has nothing to do with the transmission type, but rather the pressure plate. For instance, if you use a Centerforce pressure plate for a 240z, you MUST buy a 280z coupe throwout collar, eventhough you are not swapping out your 4-speed transmission. The 240z collar is too long (IIRC - 50/50 chance). The fork has no bearing either. You can use ANY fork (240z, 260z, 280z) on either the 4-speed or 5-speed transmission. The only caveat being the 1970 to 1971 forks, as the slave cylinder is slightly different in that it is adjustable. The fork has a small hole in the end. To keep it simple, though, if you are simply swapping out a clutch and transmission (and are going to reuse the pressure plate), then just use the throwout collar that is on the old transmission, even if it was a 4-speed.

Bingo. While the brakes will not go to the floor, it will require a longer travel given the increase in the reservoir volume in the calipers. My car stops great with stock reman'd calipers, Powerslot rotors, good tires, and Hawk HP pads.

Yes. As long as you are not changing out the pressure plate you can use the same throwout collar.

Incorrect. The clutch does not matter, but rather the throwout collar. The throwout collar MUST match the pressure plate. The clutch disk, slave and master cylinders have NO bearing on what transmission you use. The size of the clutch disk is related to the flywheel friction surface, 225 mm for N/A cars and 240mm for 2+2 and turbo. The throwout collars are different between the 2+2 and the coupes, simply because the pressure plates were different. You CAN mix and match components, as long as you pair the collar to the pressure plate. I installed a 240 mm Fidanza flywheel along with an ACT clutch and ACT pressure plate, using the correct collar, as well as a 1971 slave cylinder and the OE master cylinder in my 1972 240z. For 1970 and 1971 240zs, the transmission opening will require modification.

FYI, but I have an intercooler that COMPLETELY covers the front of my radiator. I have a 2 to 3 inch gap between the I/C and the radiator. I am using dual electric fans and my car does not get over 185ish degrees.

I wouldn't. I've read a few too many bad things about Centerforce products for Z cars. Then again, most of the problems were related to higher horsepower (275+ whp) builds. I went with the ACT setup myself and used a Fidanza flywheel.

geezer, Escalon, et. al., thank you for the help. I am just going to route a +12v ignition hot wire to the other side of the light. I know that this is how it should work. I did the same thing with my reverse light switch as well. Since I pulled my heater core and blower motor, I lost my circuit for the reverse switch. I simply wired up a +12v ignition hot source to the correct side to fix it. I'll do the same for this light. See you on the road.

I'll post pictures tonight of the light as well as the supplemental chassis section. My build date is 5/72, so it could be a transition car. I am looking at the Brake Warning Light. I know the Brake Switch has two GY wires connected to it. I saw the same thing in the wiring diagrams. It's because the Brake Switch has the GY wires that I am reluctant to remove the GY wire attached to the brake light. Both the GY and YG wires at firmly attached to the light. I've been up under my dash quite a few times routing wires, etc. and investigating this matter. Thank you for all of the help so far.

Escalon, thank you for the clarification. I know that there is really no difference between the Y/G or Y/L wires on one side of the bulb. The wiring diagram shows the R/L wire connecting to the other side of the bulb, however, both the supplemental chassis section and my own observations show that a G/Y wire is connected to the otherside of the bulb. Therein is my problem. The G/Y wire is definitely factory. I do not see a R/L wire connecting to the otherside of the bulb. This is why I am confused. What I am seeing does not match the wiring diagramsl, but it is confirmed by the supplemental chassis section in the FSM. The switch is fine. I checked continuity on it while rotating it around its base and I have full continuity. I can always run my own power supply to the bulb and replace the G/Y connector, however, I am reluctant to do so until I know the routing of this wire. I truly wish I could follow the circuit in the harness, but the harness is in the dash and taped up. Tomohawk, unfortunately the 240z FSM does not have such diagrams. As a matter of fact, I do not think it even has a section on the hand brake switch. It mentions it once or twice, but does not go into any detail.

I have an FSM and a Haynes manual and know those wire colors. However, the wires for the light itself is G/Y and Y/G. There are TWO wiring diagrams in the FSM for the 1972 240z. One shows the hand brake with a Y/L wire and the other with a Y/G wire. There only place in the circuit with the R/L wire can provide power is the G/Y wire on the light lead. The Y/G and Y/L wires (one on the handbrake, the other on the distribution block) are grounds. The R/L wire only gets power when the dash lights are turned on. Odd.

Bueller?

Now, I consider myself to be fairly mechanically an electrically inclined. I am not an expert nor a veritable Z'sondabrain, but I have done some extensive electrical work on my car. Saying that, I can not, for the life of me, get my brake warning light to turn on. Yes, the switch is fine. The bulb is not burned out. The wiring diagrams are a JOKE. I have a 1972 240z. The FSM shows a Y/G from the hand brake switch going to the lamp. Check. It shows a Y/L coming from the brake block. Mine is Y/G. The Chassis Supplemental section shows the light connection as G/Y and Y/G. Check. The wiring diagram shows jack for this connection. How does the light get power? The light works by switching ground. Where is the power coming from? Does anyone know the circuit and could give me some insight? It worked before I did the extensive modifications to my dash lighting system, swapping out gauges, etc. I know I did something and I know I can fix it, but without a correct wiring diagram I am blind. Thanks.

I work in Orange, at the intersection of Glassell and Grove. I can swing by sometime after work and help out if needed. I have not had to mess around with my handles, but I have had the interior panels off while I swapped mirrors, installed sound deadening, etc., and I figure myself to be somewhat mechanically inclined. Drop me a PM if you need some help.

Steve, I am running Yokohoma S/Ts on my 14x7 Turbines in 225/60R14.

I have the MSA kit in my car, but I ripped out the thin, flimsy padding and added a nice, heavy 6 lb/sq ft padding. I also used the same padding on my tranny tunnel trim. It really changes the carpet.

I bought one of these adapters and it worked great.....until I somehow completely fried the yellow battery sense wire coming from the alternator. I mean I FRIED it, as in NO insulation left between the alternator and the battery sense wire. I also fried the adapter. I finally cut out the old voltage regulator female plug and just connected the wires. I installed the diode using mechanical butt splices. The diode fit perfectly inside the two halves. I then heat shrinked the whole wire. The plug is a very easy and elegant solution. However, if you want a 'clean' look and eliminate the plug altogether, you will have to do the splicing by hand.

Daniel, which reminds me that I replaced those phillip head screws with hex head screws for that exact reason (stripping).

awsm73z, first gen RX-7 mirros look very similar to those. I have two pairs in my garage that are power. I am going to refurbished the housings and then put then out on my fenders.

The spline count is different.

Doh, I forgot about his clutch pedal issue entirely. Chances are the clutch disk is not bonded/stuck to the flywheel. The pressure plate is unable to disengage the clutch due to an issue with either the master or slave cylinders.

Exactly. I responded to his first query in the drivetrain forum. I do not respond to cross-posts.