ktm

No, it will not bond very well. POR is meant to be painted directly over rust. If you have new metal, the metal must be etched before painting it with POR. Just use a chemical stripper to take the paint off. Jasco is a phenomenal stripper that you can buy at Home Depot. Paint it on, wait 15 minutes, and use steel wool to take it off.

I believe the grey car has an MSA kit as well. I am contemplating putting it on my 240.

1 Bravo 6, my problem really stumped me as I did not have any of the secondary signs of a float problem such as a full float bowl. I would get gas to come out of the banjo fitting and/or vent hose, but when I remove the float bowl lid, there was around 1/5-1/4 of gas in the bowl. Last night I read a statement by Bruce Palmer that if you set the float seat to 9/16-in. by inverting the float cover, you'll set the float too low. Another member said that his mechanic would adjust the float level until the top of the float was almost parallel with the float cover. If you do the latter, you will measure 9/16-in. from the FRONT edge of the cover versus the middle part. There is a lip surrounding the cover. I kept setting my float to 9/16-in. as measured from the front edge of the float to the bottom of the cover. I changed that to 9/16-in. as measured from the little lip surrounding the cover and it solved my problem. A final trick (beandip told me this and I read it numerous times in the archives) is to measure 23 mm down from the top of the float bowl (with the cover removed). Attached a clear hose to the bottom of the float bowl and hold it next to the mark on the float bowl. The fuel level should match the mark. Keep adjusting your float seat until it matches. I intend to do this as a check this weekend.

Solved the problem. I KNEW it was a float and/or needle valve problem, but nothing was making any sense in light of historical performance. An obscure statement by Bruce Palmer as well as a tip by another member helped.

Gary, correct, but I never had that problem until I replaced the valve and set the float. Before the float did not even TOUCH the needle valve. I should have been pouring gas out of my carb throat and vent hose earlier but was not. Here is the really odd thing. The first time I saw gas pouring out of the banjo fitting, I removed the float bowl cover and noted that the bowl was 1/4 fuel of full, that's it. This is when the float was not even TOUCHING the needle valve. So I figured I had a stuck valve/debris in banjo fitting which was blocking the flow and causing it to come out around the banjo fitting. I love this car. I love this car. I love this car. I love this car. I love this car. I love this car. I love this car. I love this car.

The front SU carb is leaking. At first it was blowing gas around the banjo fitting gaskets. When I say blowing, I mean there was a veritable river of gas pouring from around the fitting. I pulled the float cover off, cleaned and checked the needle, and checked the banjo fitting and passages. No dice. I bought a float maintenance kit to replace the gaskets. A new needle valve was included in the kit. Last night I replaced all the gaskets and needle valve and decided to check the float level. Boy was I surprised when the float would not even TOUCH the needle valve. Giddy, I reassembled everythign after setting the float (by the way, how do you measure the float setting? I did it, but there has to be a better way). This time it was not POURING gas out of the banjo fitting, but you could see that it was leaking around the fitting (yes, its tight). I was getting NO fuel out of the vent hose. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Zero. A new problem manifested itself - now I have fuel leaking from the front of the carb. The air piston moves freely and I have enough oil in the damper. It's my understanding that the 1972 carb (yes, its a 3-screw) float is plastic, and as such will not sink over time. Everything I have read points to a float/valve issue, but short of replacing the float, I have done everything that I can. Help me Obi, er, Classic Zcar Club, you are my only hope. Edit: Upon further transcedental thinking due to copious amounts of coffee, could my jet needle be clogged? This is the only other thing I can think of. I need to check my float cover vent as well. I should not be blowing gas out of the banjo fitting and not the vent if its a float problem.

Problem solved. The race was not seated properly. I should have double-checked the shop's work. The race was 1/16-in. off. New race, new bearing, new seal and she spins freely without a sound. Thank you for all the help.

Both boxes were marked with the correct part number. Also, the back of the hub does slightly protrude from the back face of the rotor. My dust shields are freshly painted. Any grinding on the dust shield would be immediately evident. Furthermore, the driver's side does not bind or grind at all, which leads me to believe that it is hub related. I had a thought last night that my race may not be seated correctly. I had a shop seat the races after pulling my shocks out. I say this now as a result of my observation late last night. When the bearing stuck to the spindle, it appeared to be kilted. This would explain the binding, but I do not know if it would cause the horrendous grinding I was hearing. Thank you everyone for all of your suggestions. This is driving me crazy. The car has been non-op since July because I am taking me time and thoroughly cleaning, repair/replacing, and stripping/preping/painting everything (to include the Ziebart undercoating). I am soooooo close to getting the front done and now this.

Thank you for the offer Jon. I am going to give it one more try tomorrow and if I can not get it to go, I'll probably take you up on your offer. I'll drop you a PM either way. Again, thank you.

I just went outside and did jmortensen's trick - nada, though I may have marked the wrong area. Since the back of the hub slips over the back of the spindle (right behind the rear seal), I may have a 'lip' that is grinding instead of the back face. When I attempted to pull the hub off, the bearing stayed behind along with the rear seal. I was able to give it a slight tap and it popped off. I checked the bearing play and there was no grinding, same goes for the outside smaller bearing. Back when I first bought the car, it pulled to the left. I thought I had a sticky caliper as I heard grinding (and it was hard to spin) when I manually turned the wheel. Looks like I found the true culprit, but on the other side (most likely due to switching the hubs).

As my original post indicated, when the nut is HAND tightened, the hub binds up and there is an awful grinding. I am not talking about grit in a bearing grinding, I am talking about two oceanic liners colliding grinding. Sometimes I can not even turn the hub with the nut hand tightened. I am replacing the bearings tomorrow as well as trying jmortensen's tip about checking the back of the hub.

They are brand spanking new as are the following: Remanufactured calipers ST Sway Bars Urethene Bushings MSA T/C kit Powerslot Rotors Tokico HP Shocks and Springs Ball Joints Outter Tie Rods Steering Rack Boot Pictures:

Almost. You are correct about the nut tightening procedure (I have an FSM as well), but my hub is rubbing/grinding before I put the nut on the spindle. If I just HAND tighten the nut, the rotor is VERY hard to turn and there is an awful grinding noise.

I am prepared to ditch the bearings and rear seal for the reason you just mentioned. They are relatively cheap, it's just the labor involved to remove the seal and clean all the grease. Thanks for the tip about the Sharpie.

I am in the final throws of re-assembling my front suspension. Everything is on save for the front passenger hub. When I initially seat the hub on the spindle, it will rotate freely without a sound. However, when I fully seat the hub in the correct location, I get a severe grinding noise coming from the back. If I HAND tighten the nut so that the hub has no lateral free play, the hub is very hard to turn and there is an awful grinding noise. At times the hub will completely bind up. Does the back lip of the hub have a tight clearance with the spindle face? Previous POs have hammered on this lip a bit and it is uneven. Could the deformations on the lip be rubbing/binding against the spindle face? If so, can I just grinding down these deformations? Thank you.

The FSM and How to Rebuild Your Datsun book also indicates that there should only be approximately 1 lb of force required to turn the hub. You can measure this by attaching a spring scale (like a fish scale) to one of the studs and pulling on it until the rotor spins. The force required to spin the rotor should be approximately 1 lb.

Very easy and cheap solution: rubber stoppers cut to fit. Home Depot sells them. They are a good stop-gap until you get the plugs (such as if you are trying to fight an exhaust leak).

I ran down to MSA and compared the stock rubber and the urethene driver's side steering rack bushings. The urethene bushing is the correct width and depth. However, as I suspected, the cross-sectional shape of the bushing is incorrect. The rubber bushing is U-shaped, with the lower left and right corners radiused like a U. The urethene bushing is shaped like a U-channel; that is, while it is also U-shaped, the lower left and right exterior corners form a right-angle like this [ (bushing turned on its side). The exterior corners will need to be ground-down or radiused for the bushing to fit.

Whoops, crucial information was left out. I am installing the MSA urethene steering rack bushings. The rack is presently sitting on my workbench, where it has been residing since late July. The passenger side bushing just popped into place. It was a little tight as you would expect, but I installed it without any issues. The driver side bushing is another matter. As I try to place the bushing in the diamond shaped mount, the ridges of the bushing move towards each other (compress), thus narrowing the channel in which the clamp will seat. I can get the bottom part of the bushing into place, but when I flip the rack over the channel is so narrow that there is NO way it will seat on the cross-member properly.

Yes, I search and did not find this problem. I have a 240z with a 240z rack (diamond/hole bushing arrangement). I am in the process of reassembling my front end and hoped to get the rack in today. The passenger side bushing fit perfectly - a little bit of grease and the bushing just popped into place. However, the driver side bushing refuses to go on. I have determined that the bushing itself is too wide. As I press it into place, the ridges of the bushing are compressed towards each other. Yes, the mounting area is clean. As a matter of fact, I can not get the bushing to stay in place. It keeps popping back out due to it being too wide. Yes, the packaging indicates I have the 240z bushings. Anyone else have any issues with their recent bushings?

225/60 14s are available, but your selection is limited and they are pricey. 215/60s are more widely available and considerably less expensive.

Thought so. Thanks Arne.

is to swap the ball joints with the knuckles attached?

The Zbarn would be a used rack, as would Danny's Datsuns.

I asked MSA about rebuilt racks. They informed me that rebuilt racks are no longer available as the inner bushing, which is the primary source of "failure", is no longer made. There is a thread here (or on Zcar.com) that talks about rotating the bushing 180 degrees. It is my recollection that the bottom part of the bushing wears out first.