ktm

Check out Hybridz.org for alternator upgrade options. I "pioneered" a GM CS144 swap based on an earlier write-up for a CS12 swap. This helps tremendously with power output at idle, but I was also running an L28ET with GM LS1 coil on plugs, electric fuel pump and fan in my 240z. Your issue is most likely due to corrosion in the connections and 40 year old wiring. Upgrading the alternator is just a ban-aid fix.

MSA's kit is Dave Irwin's kit. Dave makes them for MSA.....

As madkaw asked, is your ammeter hooked up and if so, is it functional? The R/W wire will only get power if the ammeter is hooked up/functional. The R/W does not get power from the fuse box.

Drag and Rota both offer wheels in offsets suited for our Z's. They have a great selection of modern styles as well as classic reproductions.

Check your grounds.

Actually, the turn signals do not pass through the hazard switch from the combo switch. If you look at a wiring diagram the wires from the combo switch connect to the wires coming out of the hazard switch. 240zs are odd ducks with regards to their turn signals. They have 4 wires from the combo switch and hazard switch, one for each light.

If the rear turn signals do not work with either the hazards or the turn signal themselves, then I would look for a point of commonality between the circuits. Have you checked the plug that goes to the rear turn signals that is located under the passenger-side vent on the right-hand side of the dash?

1) Do the front turn signals work? 2) Do the rear signals turn on when the hazards are on?

Where in LA do you live? I live in the area (OC and now D-Bar) as well and never had a problem with the po-po. I had a turbo setup for a while with no resonator and a Borla XR-1 race muffler that was over 95 db, and now my LS1 setup sets off car alarms while cruising in my neighborhood at 25 mph and 1200 rpm.

There is originality and then there is functionality. If you are not anal about originality (such as a concourse car) then functionality is a primary concern. The replacement fuse box is a great first step as are Z'sondabrain headlight relays. I was chasing a voltage drop ghost myself about 3 weeks ago that was due to a contact corrosion/oxidation issue in the combo switch for my brake lights. These cars are 40 years old and the interior components suffer from corrosion/oxidation as well.

To add to Steve's suggestion, you are looking at the Red/Blue wire (at least on a 240z) in the dash harness as well as the sockets. The Red/Blue wire feeds power to the dash lights from the dimmer.

You will want a fuse in-line with the power feed from the battery or after the relay to the horns. Regardless, put a fuse in the circuit somewhere. I was going to buy the Hella Supertones but after doing a bit of reseach I opted for the FIAMM low tone and high tone horns. They are not as harsh as the Supertones and have both a low and high tone horn.

Green/blue is the power feed (at least for a 240z) from the fuse block to the combo switch for the dash and parking lights. Green/white then feeds the powr from the switch to the dash and parking lights.

Found the issue. First, I was too far down the rabbit hole and admittedly testing the wrong circuit at the combo switch. The problem is that while the wiring at the combo switch for the rear brake lights/turn signals are W/R and W/B, the wiring changes to G/R and G/B at the lights themselves. Sooooooo, I kept testing the G/R and G/B at the switch. Second, the load issue was real. If I did not connect the harness at the drivers side light, the G/R wire in the harness would read +12v with the brakes depressed but would drop to 0 when connected to the light. After I woke up and realized my error above, I then tested the correct circuit at the combo switch and determined that it was, indeed, in the switch. I took the switch apart and inspected the contacts. I had previously taken the switch apart 2 years ago and cleaned the turn signal contacts but did not touch the brake contacts. I had forgotten how the brake circuit worked in the switch and taking it apart reminded me. While everything was in intimate contact, it appeared that there was some heavy oxidation on the contacts. I sprayed some Deoxit on both brake contacts and cleaned them up the best I could. After cleaning and reassembling the switch, the driver's side brake light now functions.

SteveJ, thank you for the prompt response. I should clarify that I am not a wiring neophyte but am not an expert either. I've rewired the car from the dash (including the dash) forward including a Painless fuse block, installed 3 engine management systems, and various other tasks. To answer your questions: Yes, that is exactly what I did. I removed the rear panel and cut off both ends of the plug. I have spare connectors from Vintage Connections (from when I rewired my car) that I can use to reconstruct that connection. I also ran a ground wire from the light to the battery ground. I can do this since the battery is located in the rear of the car. I tested the voltage drop issue by cutting off the plugs as described above and exposing the bare wire on both (tail light side and harness side) wires (G/R). I attached my DVM to the harness side wire (where it read +12v) and then touched the tail light side wire to the harness side wire and watched the voltage drop to zero. What is confusing about the issue is that the turn signals work on both sides. The turn signals share the same circuit as the brakes. If both turn signals work and the passenger's side brake light works, why doesn't the driver's side? The tail lights were working fine for at least 2.5 years (the time since I rewired the car) and its only within the month that they could have gone out.

I've been diagnosing a brake light issue that recently came to light...... I finally managed to get my passenger side brake light working but the driver's side is still having issues. Turn signals, hazards, and tail lights work on both sides. The driver's side brake light will work if I apply power direclty from the battery. I have power at the wire for the driver's side brake light, however, if I then connect the wire to the light, the voltage drops to zero. Remove the wire, and the voltage returns. It only took me 6 hours to diagnose that issue. Does anyone have an idea as to the cause for this perplexing problem?

Steve, I lurk from time to time and try to add constructive advice when I can. This site, as well as Hybridz, as helped me out more than I can repay. If the towers have already been shimmed and you are this far down the proverbial rabbit hole, don't keep throwing good money after bad. At some point you may want to consider picking up another head that is in better condition. Cleanliness is nice, but what you really want (as others have stated) is flatness. If the head is warped at all you will not get a good seat on the head gasket. Saying that, if this is just to get the car running, have you tried taking a razor blade to the head (one from a utility knife). Use the bare blade and angle it at a 30 degree or shallower angle and, using both hands, push the blade forward across the surface. If you find that it is sliding over the material, you can steepen the approach a bit until you get a bite but you have to be careful.

I can understand the desire to DIY, but a complete head rebuild that re-uses the valves and valve seats is $300. The head is off and the valves out. Take it to a shop and have them do a rebuild. Hell, if you tell them that you'll reassemble, the price may be around $200.

Be careful which tape you buy. If you get the good stuff you will not be able to get it off without destroying it. Saying that, you could always use Velcro to attach the cover.

I too have the MSA headliner and have not had issues with it over the 5 years since I installed it, but time will tell. The 3M adhesive products are a tad expensive but are well worth the money. Do not skimp here or else you'll have a drooping headliner.

I powder coated my plates a gloss black. They were not in the best condition at the time and the glass black contrasts nicely with the orange paint.

Obligatory steering wheel porn: I found the steering wheel on Craigslist late last week. It is the style I've seen a few times and absolutely loved. Most of the other Nardi wheels are tri-spoke with the spokes evenly distributed around the steering wheel. I attached it to my MSA billet Grant adapter with a 16 ga sheet metal adapter I made. It took me around 3 to 4 hours to make the adapter since I was using a Dremel, drill, drill press, and die grinder. However, it can be done.

Dave, I saw you on Friday at the BBQ and again on Sunday. I did not stop by and introduce myself though as you were always deep in conversation (especially to the one gentleman on Friday night regarding HIDs). I see that many of your products are now retailed by MSA - congratulations! To contribute to this thread, first my current LS1 setup and then my old turbo engine.

Rich, Thanks for the pictures of the blue LS1 S30; that is the one I did not see. I agree, his engine setup is cleaner than mine. I had the orange S30 with the black hood and LS1. I've been meaning to wrap my coil harness in snake skin much like the blue S30 and polish my covers.....just like the blue S30. Good to see that it looks as good as my minds eye says it will!

I only saw three.....and one of them was mine. I guess I missed the fourth one some how. I feel I personally had the best looking LS engine setup of the 3 I saw, but I am biased. As for the 260z winner, that is Tony D's car. It is a peer vote of JUST 260z owners; 240z and 280z owners do not vote on 260z's. It is a joke amongst them all since there are only ever 8ish 260zs at the event.