ktm

Toyota S12/W caliper (late 1980s Toyota 4-Runner 4x4). Same bolt spacing as stock 240z calipers but requires a 1/2-in. machined spacer to align the 300zx (Z31) vented rotor in the correct position. You can use Z32 (300zx) brake pads in this caliper if you trim two small tabs at the bottom of the pad. This helps in the selection of performance brake pads.

If you order the spacer from Modern Motorsports, who was the first to develop the kit, you will not have the fitment issue.

The price has dropped considerably since he first listed it. I believe he was asking over $7,000 at one time.

Running a GM CS144 on a SBC is not the same as running one on an L-series. It helps to specify your setup otherwise you may confuse people. You can run a CS144 on a L-series (or 12si), but you have to modify the lower mount as well as remove the voltage regulator. Alternator upgrade: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html Discusses the diode and where to install it. You can run a GM CS144 with a stock ammeter if you are running the high draw items off relays. External car stereo amplifiers have a built in relay. An electric fan should be setup off a relay as it is a very high draw item (30 amps on startup). The same for an electric fuel pump.

The GM alternator swap is not a straight swap. You do need to make some modifications. Maples probably learned of the GM 12si swap from Hizandherz over at Hybridz in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550 and I was the one who explored the CS144 swap in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135557&highlight=CS144. I also provided neat solution for the top alternator bracket in this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137235&highlight=CS144

Correction, 240zs up to 1972 have the valve in the rear. The 1973 has the valve on the firewall.

You should hear the car. Check out around 3:45 to 4:15 I keep looping that segment over and over again.

Why put the pump in when you do not know the source of your problem? One change at a time. Replace the cap and see if that works. If not, then install the pump. One takes 30 seconds the other 30 minutes.

Yep, I misread your post. I ordered my 1979 280zx master cylinder from Rock Auto for around $130 if I remember correctly. It's good to know that the 1980 unit is the same as the 1979. I know that the later model years switched the mounting alignnment.

I used a $10 quartz movement clock kit from a hobby shop (Michaels). I was able to reuse the stock face and needles.

You are probably going to want the MC from a 1979 280zx. You'll need the extra capacity. Also, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735&page=17 (you posted there as well) is a great thread regarding brake upgrades.

Your radiator is not full up to the top because it spit up the coolant onto your floor. It does not happen a few hours later, it happens within 5 minutes of shut down. Eventhough you've shut the engine off, the coolant temperature will rise considerably as it is no longer flowing nor is it being cooled. Your radiator cap is suspect and may be failing.

So Cal Transmissions in La Habra does great work. John Coffey of Beta Motorsports recommended them to me when I had my Z32 transmission rebuilt (yes, its in my 240z). Total cost was $1100. I left my car with them and they removed, rebuilt and reinstalled the tranny.

ztattoo, that I can not tell you until I actually see the seat rails. You can most certainly expect to do some drilling and fabrication. I installed 2008 Mazda Miata seats in mine without welding. I simply needed to make 4 pieces (2 for each seat) that extended the mounting point in the front. The rear mounts were addressed by drilling holes in the existing mounting brackets. The mounting requirements depend on the length and width of the seat rails and brackets.

You do realize that they are universal seats and require modification to fit into the 240z, right? You can find these seats all day long on Ebay from sellers who will ship such as http://motors.shop.ebay.com/__?_from=R40&_trksid=m39&_nkw=universal+racing+seats

I put mine on the passenger seat. Maybe that's been my problem all along!

Man, where to beging. First, you really are not giving us enough information. What have to done to verify everything was installed correctly, fuel pressure, timing, etc. Saying that, it could be anything. Have you: 1) Verified timing. Are you sure you installed the oil pump shaft correctly? This will cause all sorts of problems if you installed it incorrectly. 2) Did you mess with any electrical in the car during the rebuild? 3) Verified fuel pressure. Just because fuel is "coming up at least as high as the fuel lines" does not mean it has adequate pressure. 4) Verified your injector clips are securely fastened to your injectors. 5) Verified spark. Are you sure you have getting spark from your distributor? This is just the beginning

Quite honestly , it may be easier, MUCH easier, to simply replace the intake manifold. You can find them all day long on Ebay, Craigslist, and the classifieds here, on Zcar.com and Hybridz.org.

Why bother? Just take it to a place to get it ceramic coated. If you do the prep work, the shop will most likely not garuantee their work.

If you want to do it once and right, send it out to get ceramic coated. The shop will do all the work (cleaning, prep, etc.) and the professional ceramic coating is more durable than the high temp paint. Figure around $80 to have the manifold ceramic coated.

The woodruff keyway should be at the 12 o'clock position at TDC. This is not the definitive method of determining TDC, but it is one of the indicators to check when verifying TDC on a rebuild. You mean that the timing mark on the crank is approximately 90 degrees out from the indictor. Your woodruff key may be missing which has allowed the damper to rotate.

You can get used gauges on Ebay, Craigslist and the classifieds here, Zcar.com and Hybridz.org.

Why would 16s rub? Your rolling diameter is the same (if you chose the correct tire) between 14s and 16s. The big issue to address rubbing is backspace/offset, wheel width and tire width.

Jon, could that also be indicative of a leak some where in the system? Basically it is bleeding pressure through some means, either a bad master, leaks around the bleeders, etc.

I switched out my master cylinder with a 1979 280zx (must be 1979 and not later) 15/16-in. unit when I upgraded to the S12/w calipers in the front and 240sx calipers in the rear. He swapped his rear drums for rear disks as well as added the 4-piston Toyota calipers. I would suspect the master cylinder as well.