kinfish

Here is a shot of a new roller installed on the door.

Installing 280Z exhaust valves (35mm dia) in an E-31 head coupled with the 2400 cc original block creates a potential interference problem. Edge of valve contacts the rim of the block. If you bored the block or have 260 or 280 block the problem is less or goes away. Better do your homework up front!

Will, Outstanding response to a simple question! Your time to add the extra historical info is well appreciated by most of the people that use this site. I would say that your data bank of details might be able to compete with the likes of Carl Beck. Ron

Took me 37.5 years to get enough courage to cover up the original paint. Got tired of looking at the years of abuse and road rash sustained on journeys stretching from Florida to Maine to Yellowstone Park in Wyoming to the Mojave desert in California. The dings, scratches and other sins were fixed and some rust areas repaired with real metal. Car is still relatively unmolested after 175,000+ miles but I did replace the original #903 blue with a 2007 vibrant color and add a new version of stripes which I like but will make the purists cringe. 11 weeks in paint shop + 3 weeks of sweat in my 98 deg garage to put it back together and here she is:

Isn't it too cold in Newfoundland for these classics to survive in your environment? Do they all migrate to Florida in the winter?

If you are dealing with original paint as shipped from factory you need to be careful not to overwhelm the paint with muscle, either manual or mechanical. My original paint is rather sensitive to waxing with 2008 cleaners / waxes and paint is gradually removed to the application cloth.

Speedometer cables do break. The cable in my 240Z broke after 15 years at 168,000 miles. Pull cable off speedometer and try turning cable with pair of pliers. Do not try to pull the cable out of the sheathing since you may disengage it at transmission. If it is broken the cable will turn freely. Fix is to replace the cable with new assembly.

Maybe you should upgrade your vise-grip + crowbar toolkit with some quality stuff. Put a torque wrench at the top of the list. Remember that tighter is not better ........ always torque to spec.

What happened to the metal shroud on the top of the radiator? My series I 240Z OEM radiator has a short shroud at top to prevent fingers and hands penetrating the plane of the rotating fan blade. Is your radiator original or aftermarket replacement?

Arne, Are you replacing windshield due to problem? I am considering replacing my windshield also since it is not perfectly clear, does have some small stone chips and abuse by Mojave Desert winds. Where did you get your windshield? Manufacturer? Cost?

Arne, I am on the same path as you with exterior refresh of our '71 240Z's. I just posted one picture of my blue Z in the shop. I finally got fed up with 37+ years of road rash and dings & dents. I did have rust issues at the rocker panel in front of rear wheels ...... fixed twice previously but not the right way ....... this time I had new Tabco panels welded in. I also pulled windshield and hatch glass. Plan to paint door and hatch jams like you are doing but not engine compartment except for inside of hood.

Gus, My memory was correct that my original braided hose was same as you show in picture. It failed trying to remember what is on car today! I replaced the hose years ago and the new hose looks very similar to one in George's photo and it does not have braided outer casing but I did buy it through Nissan. It does have an extra bend in it and I hope it is not installed backwards??? My photo library got me aligned with reality. Here is current hose:

Gus, I assume you conquered the gas tank hose issue and the pricey replacements and now you are moving into the engine compartment? Your stock setup looks like mine from memory ...... simple hose with (2) 90-deg bends. The one you purchased is aftermarket and is definitely not the right p/n. E-Bay guys do get confused and frequently say things to sell parts. I am not sure that hose from George in Melbourne is going to fit? Going to Palm City Sat AM to check my Z prior to prime ..... are you interested?

You also must adjust the pushrod between booster and MC in the free state so that the piston in the master cylinder starts moving immediately after touching the brake pedal. Only a small gap is required to insure the brakes are not dragging. If you have a large gap you are consuming brake pedal travel but not moving the piston in the master cylinder. There are several pushrod configurations for the Z's and sometimes they get mixed up with refurbished boosters.

What is the secret to removing a 37 year old filler hose between the gas access door and the fuel tank on a Series I 240Z? Can you remove it without removing the fuel tank? Is it removed by pulling it outboard or pushing it inboard? This tube has a molded tee on it for the tube that runs from the vapor tank to the filler. I am trying to get access to a small rust spot under the flange near the access door.

Prices on the website are not current. Last week I bought the left and right aft panels #167-50 which were shown as $25 each but really are $40 each plus shipping.

Agree with Arne on his cost estimate for a quality job...... and plus some. Cost will exceed what the 240Z cost when it was purchased brand new from the dealer. Adding engine compartment and interior will add more bucks. Old saying: "you get what you pay for"

Carl, I heard that you were well travelled but 3M miles in your Datsun 510 Station Wagon would be quite a challenge and a record for Ripley. Would even be tough to do that on airline frequent flyer programs if you were a saleman flying around the country every week.

Alex 240Z, After 37 years + 3 months I have decided to repaint the 240Z and fix the door dings, imperfections and road rash. I got 3 estimates and choose a one-man shop that painted a friend's Cobra kit car that was very impressive. I am stripping the exterior but have no intentions of pulling the engine which runs great with 175K+. Will paint hood and tailgate inside and door jams but the engine compartment will remain original. My color selection is blue but not the original mix. The paint job will cost more than I paid for the car when I ordered in Dec, 1970.

I used the putty knife procedure suggested by Zs-ondabrain. Used a flexible, SST 2" wide blade and inserted it between the two pins on the 240Z emblem and then shited to contact one pin. Gradual twisting got emblem to move and finally they popped off. Great advice. Used same method on the "Datsun" fender emblems which have 3-pins and both readily popped off. That rusty looking retainer was nasty. Thanks for the input guys.

What is the secret for removing the "240Z emblem" directly behind the quarter panel windows on the drivers and passenger side? I have stripped the interior panels. The left side I can feel and barely see the aft pin which has some type of cone shaped lock on it. The right side is not accessible since it is buried behind the plastic vapor tank. Same question for the "Datsun emblem" on the front fenders?

Wow ...... some impressive company. Surprised the gate keepers would even let a Z enter the display area. Was the infamous, high speed, 200+ mph, $1M+ purchase price also on display?

You found the right place for advice and recommendations on early Z-cars. These cars are simple and for the most part "easy-to-work-on". There are tips that can make some jobs easier. Looks like the previous owner had a hobby of collecting air cleaners??? Did he also supply several extra sets of SU carbs?

These pins are only supposed to be replaced by Japanese midgets born with abnormally small hands. As far as most challenging jobs on a Z, this job would rate it as #3 behind the rear spindle pins and replacement of bearings on the rear stub shafts. The pain inflicted on the body increases exponentially with age. Be happy that you are doing it while you are still young.