kinfish

26th-Z nailed it with part numbers. Based on dates it appears that Series I 240's had long tail fuse blocks and Series II picked p the short tail. Correct me if I am wrong.

If Zbane's suggestions do not work, try going to a store which specializes in hydraulic hoses, couplings, etc. I assume you want "plugs" for the open ports and they can be ordered from Parker fittings thru your hydraulic store.

Beware that threads on the intake manifold ports are BSPT (British Standard Pipe Threads) which are very close to the common American NPT but threads per inch (or centimeter) are different. A purist will use BSPT, those not so pure will ram the NPT plug into the aluminum.

Based on the quality and workmanship shown in your relay harnesses I would have total confidence in your ability to refurbish the combo / turn signal switch. Will you guarantee that the switch one sends is the switch that you return except for internal parts replaced, if any?

Zbane quote: And just what were you storing underneath your vehicle that neccessitated that extra space? Reply: Some pay too much attention to detail? Acutally the skid plate was removed for better access when I decided to add Koni shocks and headers. This was in the mid 70's. My storage issue was my tiny appartment in the Mojave desert and preference to keep it off for maintenance ...... in hindsight, dumb decision.

My Dec,'70 Series I 240Z was delivered with a skid plate bolted to the front frame rail. Unfortunately I trashed it back in the 70's when I was hurting for storage space. None of those in the pictures resemble this unique, hard to find part.

Cutout switch installed in series with the battery negative lead is the way to go. I bought my switch via the internet for $39 in 2003. It is made by "Flaming River" and includes a right angle mount bracket which fits nicely on the fender panel, foward of battery inside engine compartment. This is a well made switch that features a removable plastic key that also acts a theft deterrent when you need it. Well worth the money ..... I no longer worry about the 36 year old wiring system shorting out and burning my house down.

Similar to a reportedly low mileage '72 240Z I looked at in West Palm Beach, Fla about 2 years ago. It had white interior but had major issues at that time. Love that AC Cobra ...... didn't think they adapted well to the Canadian winter ....... it would be much happier in my garage which stays warm all year.

Mfg Date Dec, 1970 but delivered in Jan, 1971 = 35 years + 10 months! Still running great at 175,000 miles ..... this car was never a hangar queen.

Same problem on my '71. Leak at bottom. Turned out motor was leaking. Did sloppy external patch repair with epoxy cement ....... leak slowed down but did not stop. New motor is solution.

My stock '71Z was victim of that cantilevered spray bar feeding #6 cylinder when it broke at braze joint. Bigger orifiice translated to lower pressure and essentially zip for oil to #6. Wiped out cam lobes before I caught the problem. If you upgraded to internally oiled cam, shitcan the spraybar and cap the feed port (MSA says kit to do so). Spray bar is bad design and has durability issues.

Stock plug is about .640 inch diameter at thread OD. A 16 mm gasket provides a good fit if you can get it past the threads on the plug.

The first set made by "Appliance" was very popular in the southeast. I bought my set in Orlando in mid 1971. The center caps rust out from the inside. Found similar replacements which fit perfect at Eagle wheels about 2 years ago. Wheels are still on my Z today.

I had a rear outer wheel bearing go bad. Its noise signature was a thump-type sound that increased in frequency as speed increased. It was not a clunking-type noise generally indicative of a universal going bad. The noise does get louder as speed increases.

I replaced the rusted center caps from my Appliance mags with ones purchased from Eagle ......... invoice description: "center cap eagle 054 5-4.75" Paid $12 each in Oct, 2003 They fit fine. Used MSA "Z stick-on emblems" for center flat. Ordered thru local custom wheel shop.

Your ground clearance with that front spoiler looks worst than marginal. Is that why the bottom piece is riveted for quick replacement? Must be impossible to drive that thing after the first snow fall ....... do you use it to clear the snow off the driveway?

Wow ...... main street must have been jammed with that many vehicles. Nice photos on the link .... weather looked surprising good for Ct?? 35+ years ago I used to eat breakfast frequently in a small cafe on the west side of Main street and towards the south end. Best breakfast in the entire northeast. About the only thing I miss about Ct.

I would send a bill to Al Gore and request reimbursement since he didn't fix global warming during his 8 years as #2 Dem in Clinton administration. A guy who takes credit for inventing the internet should have been able to fix global warming in less than two years. His latest campaign is on target for a train wreck because of his unique ability to blend fiction into theories and output jibberish. I never had a problem with a hanging chad when I punched the ballot for George Bush in 2000.

Reportedly, there is a tolerance stack-up problem installing 35 mm dia exhaust valves (stock is 33 mm) in an E-31 head and then mating to a 2400 cc block. Not sure if it also applies to E-88, N-42, etc heads. The larger valves can contact the rim of the cylinder causing damage ..... bent valves? I had my E-31 rebuilt by a machine shop that works exclusively on racing and classic engines and they updated it with the larger exhaust valves. The solution is to notch the rim of the block to provide additional clearance. Process is documented in one of the engine books on the market. Problem does not exist with larger blocks.

Think you are now on the right track to find the root cause of your problem. I do not know the answer to your question but have seen at least 2 pushrods that are significantly different in length. The system stackup is critical and when all bolted together make sure that pushrod has some play (.010-.040) relative to contacting the piston in the master cylinder. This must be done using precise detail measurements. I would stop by to help but you are too far away and probably too cold for me in Mn.

Sounds like you lengthened the pushrod significantly which moves the piston in the master cylinder. This equates to having some degree of brake action without having your foot on brake pedal ........ eventually the impacted wheels will get hot. In free state, need to have that adjustable rod in brake booster provide small gap at interface with piston in master cylinder. Hopefully you saved the old parts ...... this issue has a simple solution but requires some time and patience to get if fixed correct.

The infamous "mirror tint" window film surfaces again. I added this stuff to my hatch and quarter windows after seeing it on a trailer (mobile home) in the Mojave desert in early '74. The guy in the trailer actually installed it for a living and he tackled my '71 not knowing the difficulty. Believe this film was made by 3M and it was not pliable. All 3 of these windows have double curvature and hence to get it to lay flat required multiple slits around the circumference. This mirror film worked great but was dangerous due to reflections of the sun. One week prior to leaving Calif in the summer of '74 I got stopped on the interstate north of LA by a CHP motorcycle cop. At the time he told me the film was illegal but didn't write a ticket because he was more interested in my car. Film remained on my car until 1988 ........ no tickets!

I broke the lid on my ashtray in the mid 80's and bought a replacement at a Datsun/Nissan Dealer. Paid $25 ...... remember distinctly that I challenged the parts clerk on the outrageous price. In hindsight, wish I ordered 100 of them to sell on E-Bay 20 years later.