kinfish

Sean, I retract my response on June 1 saying the Chevelle missed a shift. Since the Chevelle was automatic and driver admitted having pedal on the floor you are the winner. Your '73Z with uprated engine is a real sleeper. Keep up the good work and keep those F15's flying.

Agree with "CIV104" on torque. Manual for my '71 240Z says same 2-step torque values. Most threads on this subject recommend upgrading to the turbo head bolts instead of original bolts. These bolts are made of improved material and hence are torqued slightly higher. Suggest you verify what bolts you bought from Nissan. I torqued my head in 2-step process with final torque of 55 ft-lbs using turbo head bolts.

You should have no trouble finding a buyer. '71 Z's are in demand. Would help if you shared the mfg date and VIN #. Is that original paint or was it repainted at some time?

If you don't want it stolen keep it in a locked garage with a hefty chain around the differential attached to a eye hook imbedded in the concrete and secured with a mondo lock. Start with simple stuff like removing the rotor when parked in public, install a battery cutout switch, install a solenoid cutout in the fuel line, etc. My '66 427 Vette was broken into on Commonwealth Ave in Boston in the late 60's and the ignition switch was popped and jumped. The frustrated thief had no trouble cranking the engine but it would not start since I removed the rotor. I drove home that night to Connecticut using the same technique as the thief. Cost me a new vent window and new ignition switch but I didn't lose the car.

Outstanding pictures ..... you did terrific job with a new camera. Where is VIR located? What is mfg date on your '71Z?

The right rear outer bearing went bad on my '71 240 at 175K. I would describe the noise as a constant howling that increased in amplitude as you increased speed. It was really annoying. The only way I could identify the source was by removing the axle shaft from the hub and spinning the wheel. Noticeable differance between left and right. I pulled the right side apart and found the outer bearing noisy and the inner OK. Replaced both bearings and no noise. Not an easy job ...... take your time.

Great pictures and some outstanding looking Z's. Why wasn't #26 out there blowing out some of the carbon buildup? Whoever brought the tents should have charged admission by the minute based on the last picture. I was considering attending as a spectator but the 250 mile drive in my old '71 with zero air-conditioning was a challenge I avoided. It was much cooler on the boat Sat & Sun. Everybody should be thankful that the event was not washed out by the summer thunder-boomers.

I agree with LanceM's suggestion to freeze the inner bearing. Put bearing in a ziploc bag and put in freezer for several hours. Instead of heating the hub with torch, simply put the assy outside in the sun for several hours. Nice and hot in Florida but you guys in IL may not see the sun for awhile since the remants of hurricane Dennis is drifting north. Find something sized to drive the outer race squarely into the hub. The inner bearing I installed measured 2.748 inch OD for the outer race. I also didn't have the proper micrometer to check the actual dia of the hub ID. Taking depth measurements before assembly is a good check to insure the bearing is fully seated.

Is there a signup and admission fee for Z-spectators who elect not to run their cars? Anybody in touch with the "rain-gods" to keep everything dry that day?

I have not experienced the "play" you described but have experienced outer bearing on verge of failure causing a very annoying whine. Have you checked to verify the 27mm nut on inside is tight ...... 200+ ft-lbs is spec? Early Z's utilized a crimp nut that was staked after torque ...... check it visually with magnification before you do anything. Another source of play is failure of the ball bearings ..... but that would be evident with lotsa noise when you drive the Z.

Here's a close relative of SavannahZ's "16831" '71 Series I 240Z --- Build date Dec,'70 --- VIN HLS30-16483 (348 cars older)

I would also vote that your oil pump installation is not right which could result in timing out-of-whack. Painful suggestion but you need to recheck setup. If you installed 35 mm exhaust valves in the E-31 head and the block is still 2400 cc you are at risk for contact with the rim of the cylinder, expecially with a high lift cam.

The kit I purchased from MSA recently are made by Earl's and all lines are 13 inches long from end to end. You can convert that to metric measure.

Series I 240Z's were not shipped with a fan shroud ....... metal, plastic or fiberglass. The metal fan blade is a water pump and radiator killer when it lets loose. It was a cream type color. The later plastic fan is safer. Radiator was more of a satin black. York compressors suck. I still have mine stored in the attic. They are good for boat anchors.

Bambikiller240's caution about the left hand threads is probably your problem. When I had my toe-in set at the local alignment shop the Tech couldn't get the drivers side tierod loose. He used a torch to get is super hot and still no luck. A more knowledgeable Tech came over and turned it the opposite way (cw = left hand threads to loosen) and it came loose on first try.

If it was a 396 Chevelle he must have missed a shift or had a really lousy running engine. I also thought this was going to be a crunch story via your introduction. But it is good that this event made your day and boosted your spirits.