nwZfan

I have a nice pair from a Series I car with the nuts included. Looks like $100 is a fair price (plus shipping). If you're interested, I can send you pictures. My email is nw.zfan@gmail.com.

Looks like it may have a casting number, but can't make it out. See pictures.

I have two new rotors in my collection of parts that I don't know what they fit. There is a part number 16-00508 511-240 on the boxes. They are about 10 5/8" in diameter. The "top" is 5 7/8" in diameter and 1.5" high. My part number searches have turned up nothing. Seems like I tried them on my 240 years ago, but they weren't correct. Assuming I picked them up in a parts lot from someone. You guys have any ideas on how to determine what they go to? Thanks in advance PS. I hope this is the right place to bring this up. Haven't visited this site for a long time. Ken

Dave, The re-skin is looking good. It warms my heart to know the roof has a new rust free home on your 260 project. I know it bothers some when I part out a car, but nearly every part lives on with another Z. If we didn't have spare organs, how would we keep our cars alive? You're doing a beautiful job. I'm glad I could help. Ken P.S to "kenz240z" I have a '71 Series II with a license plate that reads "KENZ240". Too funny. My wife also bought me a t-shirt for Christmas with "Still Plays With Cars" on it. Cracked me up when I saw your signature.

Thanks for all of the replies and entertaining banter. ) I believe I have purchased a clock that doesn't work and am attempting to secure a refund. You guys are a wealth of information and I appreciate your help.

I left it connected for a bit and the hands did not move. Do you agree that 12V (ground to black and positive to blue) should make the clock run if it is not dead?

Thanks. I will try that. I also should note that it says "Quartz" on the face. Does that make a difference?

I figured putting 12V battery (+ & -) to the blue and black leads should power the clock, but it doesn't move or make any noise. The guy I bought it from says it worked and says I need to connect it to the harness to work correctly. I plan on putting it in my 240, so I will be altering the wire harness anyway. I am just trying to determine if I have a working clock first. Any help is appreciated. Ken

Yes, I have met Doug and know where his shop is. He has seen this car, so I'll stop by to get his opinion on options. Doug has quite a reputation in this area.

Thanks Mike. Had I not seen that she was not going to stop, I would have continued through the intersection and probably got hit in the door. As you all know, there is not much protection there. I just spent the past couple of hours pulling the front pieces off. Getting the air cleaner off was a real chore due to the fact that the strut tower was about an inch away. The radiator (3 or 4 row) can be fixed and the L24 w/E31 head looks untouched. I don't think I am going to go through the hassle and expense of putting a new front end on it. If anyone is interested in the shell, I'm open to offers. Otherwise, I will be parting it out. I'll put the motor, 280 5 speed and all running gear into another 240 shell. The spirit of my Lil' Red Rocket will live on. BTW. The car is rust free. That's what really pisses me off.

Great responses. I guess you guys have talked me out of the 280 shell. The guy I was buying it from is clearing out all of his extra Z stuff. It's a package deal. I really want the R190 LSD he's got in the batch. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I enjoy taking these cars apart and putting them back together. Have you heard of an R190 LSD before? I hadn't. As for the red Series I, when you look at it from the rear, the driver's side sits very low. I jacked it up from the rear differential and the passenger wheel was about a foot off the ground, before the other wheel ever left the ground. I was thinking that this meant the frame may also be twisted. As for the Series I stuff, the car came with an assortment of parts in it. Not sure how much of the tunning gear is 240 other than the R180. The dash bears a different VIN number and is a bit trashed from the punks that broke into it and stole the stereo (before I bought it). Ir has been lowered and has a 5-speed. It really hugs the corners and I liked driving it over any of the others. I live in the Seattle/Tacoma area. I have not talked to any frame shops, because I just figured it was unrepairable. Never even considered cutting the front off of another car, I do have one that is waiting to go to the recycle yard, I will check it today for frame stability.

I'll start from the beginning..... I denied myself a 240 about 18 years ago. December of 2004, all hell broke loose. I bought 3 240s that month, 3 more in January and have had 6 more as well. I have sent 2 to the recycler after stripping their rusty carcasses and sold my only 1972 240. A week ago, I had three that ran and were insured to drive, two parts cars and one project. Last Thursday, a woman ran a red light and totalled my Series I 240 built 5/70 VIN HLS30-04339. I will heal, but the the damage to the frame rails and upper/lower radiator supports cannot be fixed. ( I am looking at a very solid '78 280 shell. Will my 240 parts fit/bolt into the 280 body? I want to move everything, wiring, dash motor, tranny, rear end and windshield. I have to decide by Sunday, so your educated advice is very much appreciated. Hopefully, I can figure out how to add pics of my "Lil' Red Rocket".