Goose52

Very nice ! I had a '69 510 wagon that I traded in on my Z ... I wish I could have the kept the wagon and also had the Z !

12 bolts should hold it up to 80mph for sure! (the 6 or 7 bolts on mine worked up to 140 mph when I had the SBC in the car - although, like Tom said, perhaps I was getting a lot of flex .... I couldn't get out of the car at that speed to check !)

Outstanding - hopefully this will break the ice and we'll see you at the Monterey Historics !!!

I agree with the L28 plan (have one myself). If you want to stick with the engine that you have, I think your carbs, exhaust, and ignition plans are a good starting point. You might want to search the archives regarding carb needle selection for your application (N27s are a good starting point for your 2.4 liter - they were the original needle on the 70-71 cars). Good reading at the Datsun Garage in regards to typical, and streetable, NA mods - some may fit into your budget: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html Also, re the 169 rwhp quoted from the Classic Motorsport article - check out the dyno results for the well built 2.8 liter on the Datsun Garage web site - 167 rwhp. There's dynos, and then there's other dynos ...

Yikes! Mine was original BRE production and fit pretty good. I had about 6 fasteners - 2 on each side, and two spaced across the middle.

Mine was mounted with short 1/4" bolts (maybe even 3/16") and fender washers as I recall. I always wanted to covert it over to use 1/4-turn Dzus fasteners so it could be quickly removed when I had clearance problems (like when pulling on some lifts, etc.) - this was with a car lowered 2" - not as much as a problem with stock suspension. Anyway, I never got around to using the Dzus fasteners before that Spook bit the dust after several "impact" incidents.

Yep - I remember reading that article - the first full road test was in the April 1970 issue of R&T. I was in my last year of high school (12th grade) and when I read those articles I said to myself: I should get a 240Z some day ... Bought my car new in September 1972.

Messege sent ! Arigato !!

Yes - he does have caps that use screws to secure them ... here's his photo !

Yea - I posted on that other thread as well. I've owned a set of these wheels for 35 years .. and there's no threads in the hub holes. So, I guess someone had to have your wheels threaded to take these spinners. Anyway, I'm with Arne on this one ...

What screw on threads ???

Well, the Datsun racing mirrors on this car haven't been sold in many years, so someone started fixing up the car a long time ago. And, getting fender flares installed is somewhat beyond throwing parts on. If only the cars could talk ... this one probably has an interesting, or perhaps tragic, story to tell.

It's obvious that at some time earlier in its life, someone cared about this car - and put some money into it. The wheels, rear fender flares, and exhaust; and underhood the strut bar, polished cam cover, oil cap, air filter assy, and the mentioned fuel pressure gage. You just have to wonder the path that lead from what it once was ... to what it is now....

There was a thread on these badges back in April. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25471 I think the consensus was that there were only badges like this for the 510, and BRE/Interpart never made a 240Z badge like this - so, technically this badge is not a remake - it's a "new-make." There WAS a wreath design for the 240Z, and it is known to have been applied to a car cover and to a bra, but no badges were found in the Interpart catalogs. Also, the original 240Z wreath said "National Champions 1970/71" - this "newmake" badge says "C Production Champion." Having said all of the above - this IS a nice looking badge.

Well, back when I got the car, THE music was Steppenwolf - Born to be Wild. However, by the mid-70s, I changed "tunes" and pulled the radio out and installed 3 gages where the radio used to be. After that, as Tom said, THE music was the sound of the engine going up and down gears. From 1977 to 1982, the "music" came from a 331ci SBC; from 1982 to present, the music is coming from an L-28...

P/S is said mean "Performance Specialties." The dealer installed a set of 8-spoke P/S mags on my car when it was new in '72. My caps were the same as yours except the recessed area was painted black (I think - I'd have to go up in the attic and look). Anyway, I have 4 of these caps but also still have the 4 mags and need to keep them together for whenever I put the set up for sale someday ...

They look like exactly like the Per-Spec mags that were on my car - except that mine are 14x5.5 and these are much wider. I've seen these mags in 14x5.5" and 14x7". What diameter and width is the mag in the photo?So, I couldn't say if these are an American Racing mag of the same style ... or whether someone just plugged in the AR caps 'cause they fit ?? BTW - the Per-Spec mags that I have don't have any casting marks on the back side that indicate manufacturer. The only indicator of what they are is the "P/S" on the center caps...

Arrived today in Los Angeles county, CA.

As of yesterday, not in SoCal yet ...

They are "Per-Spec" mags (said to mean Performance Specialties) but the spinners may not have come with the mags. A set of these were dealer-installed on my car when I bought it new in '72 - they came with a center cap that had "P/S" on the end of the cap. More discussion on these wheels here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24972

I believe that both Walter and Dave have valid points - eroded switch contacts and loosening of the electrical part of the switch. To that I'll add possible slop developing in the "socket" on the electrical portion of the switch that the mechanical part of the switch engages - this would then affect the degree of engagement of the switch contacts - and possibly promote arcing or otherwise burning the contacts so the problem would get progressively worse... In my case, I originally had a problem with the start position on the switch - I wired around that with a starter button (that bypassed the "start" switch contacts) and it worked fine . Then, a number of years later, I had a problem with getting the solenoid to engage, even with the starter button that bypassed the ignition switch contacts. Thinking I had a current/power issue (perhaps corroded wires, contacts, etc.) that's when I added the relay. It's now been at least 20 years with no problem. Since I did all these mods, I have replaced both the mechanical and electrical portions of the ignition switch (as part of installing newer locks on the entire car). The start position on the new switch works so I don't NEED to use my starter button any longer (although, by habit, I always end up pressing the starter button to start the car - 20 year habits die hard). Some day I should perhaps disconnect my relay and restore the wiring to see if it was only a switch problem all along !

FWIW - I've been running a similar relay set-up on my '72 for at least 20 years to solve the same problem described in the article. However, I put the relay inside the car, on the inside of the firewall in the passenger footwell. Wiring is pretty straightfoward - the original wire going to the solenoid is extended and run into the car to energize the relay then goes to ground. A larger gage wire from the positive battery terminal comes into the car, through the load side of the relay, then to the solenoid terminal.

I read the road test of the 240Z in the April 1970 issue of Road&Track magazine and recongized the car as a great value. Then, in 1971 I visited my brother down in Miami and he pulls up in a blue 1970 Z - so that was my first ride. Between the article and that ride, I said to myself: I should get one of these someday... Bought mine in September 1972.

Maybe a little. I don't top-end the car like I frequently did 35 years ago so don't really know what it's giving in regards to drag coefficient/top speed or downforce/stability. If anyone was following the wind-tunnel testing that the folks on HybridZ ran, there was a very interesting finding. Nearly all of these added devices - whether a Spook or a dam, leave a gap between the top or back of the device and the lower radiator support. The device may funnel air upwards and through the grill, but then the air hits the resistance of the radiator and it just flows back down through the gap between the back of the device and the radiator support. I have a cardboard template sitting on my workbench right now that I cut out to seal that area - just waiting to find some aluminum sheet to cut out and install. Even if there is not a significant aero benefit, there should at least be a cooling benefit.

Well, a 1972 because that's what I have ... and it's not only the character or nature of the car, but just as importantly the 35 years worth of memories that go with the car. Leaving aside emotional considerations, I do prefer the simplicity and light weight of the 240, but always did admire the Z32 for it's body design, power, and handling....