Goose52

Belongs to Steve from Z-Therapy - he drove the car down from Oregon. I talked to him about it - all custom with lots of fabrication and sectioning. I didn't hear if he had any production plans - you could email and ask. Did you see the custom decal he had made up for the air cleaner housing - shows the three carbs!

On post #2 of this thread (26 hours ago) I reported paying $3.34/gal. Had to fill-up today ... $3.43/gal ...

Premium at my usual gas station is $3.34/gal (at least it was a few days ago - probably more by now). My Z is not a daily driver but I do drive it about 50 miles a week. I typically get about 18 to 20 mpg (or less if I feel a bit skippy). So, I guess I'm spending $8 or $9 a week on gas for the Z. Certainly more than I would prefer to pay but still not too expensive to get my Z "fix" ....... !

Don't know if mine is European market or JDM (or both) but mine has "Japan" and an "E41" casting number on the tube - see photo.

I think the tank is 60 liters which is 15.85 gallons ...

Well, I'm the original owner of mine - picked it up from the dealer on September 13, 1972 ... so, that's about 33 years, 7 months, and 4 days ...

Have you tried your local Nissan dealer? Just 2 months ago I ordered a vacuum advance unit for a '79 distributor from my local dealer and received it in about a week. Perhaps MSA gave the correct answer but a phone call to your dealer might be worth a try to double check. My unit was relatively expensive - about $75. I don't recall how much advance is provided by the vacuum unit, but the disadvantage of not running the vacuum is some amount gas mileage reduction at part-throttle cruise.

My car is a 6/72 and the door seals that were on it are 1-pc so I can't compare to an early 2-pc seal. I have owned the car since new and don't recall ever replacing the door seals (although I had the car repainted in 1987 and I've been trying to remember if the seals were replaced then...). For another point of reference - this photo is of the weatherstrip from the Precision 2-pc set-up - this absolutely would NOT work on my car. The "genuine" weatherstrip offered by MSA has a similar profile, but is made of softer rubber and compresses more readily.

I went to MSA specifically to check out the "genuine" weatherstrip. It was softer/thinner than the 2-pc (separate welting) Presision weatherstrip - a plus. However, MSA does not have the original welting so you have to use the same aftermarket welting as is used on the 2-pc Precision. This welting is deeper than the original Datsun welting but installed OK on my car. So, the "genuine" MIGHT have worked but I didn't take it home. While I was checking out the "genuine" seal, Sal went back and brought out the Precision with the attached welting and recommended that one over the others. As I mentioned above, when all were laid out, the 1-pc Precision was the closest match to what I had, so with that match, and with Sal's recommendation, that's what I got. The attached welting on this one is shallower like the original Datsun welting; however, the outside surface of the welting has a rubber coating - not a plastic-type jacket like the original. That doesn't bother me personally and I think this 1-pc looks great on my car - especially compared to the 30+ year old seals ! Reading all the posts above, there seems to be no one solution that works for everyone. FWIW, attached are a couple of quick photos that I just took of a trimmed piece of the 1-pc Precision.

Final report for the knowlege base: Drove over to MSA today. I brought with me the "old-style" Precision two-piece seal and the J.C. Whitney seals that I had already purchased. Sal at MSA brought out the "genuine" weatherstrip (came in a bag with a Nissan label and part number - is designed to use a separate welting) and he also brought out the "new-style" Precision one-piece seal with the weatherstrip attached to the welting. I had also brought with me the old seal that had been on the car. Laying the 5 types of seal out, the new-style, one-piece Precision was the closest match to what was on the car - took one of those home, it installed in 10 minutes, and door closes fine - you have to use just a "bit" of force, but you don't have to slam it. So, in my case, the J.C. Whitney seal was not the way to go and the one-piece Precision seal was the best fit. I'll be going back for another one for the passenger side.

Just another data point to this discussion ... Before seeing this thread, I had already purchased from MSA a two-piece (welting w/separate weatherstip) door seal for my driver side door. Installed the kit and it looked great - much better than the 33+ year old seal that was torn and leaking. Only problem is that the door absolutely won't close - no matter how hard you try to slam the door. If you slam hard enough, it will "catch" (with the rear of the door sticking out 1/2") but it is not latched with the door lock rotated in to the striker. That was Plan A. Read this thread and ordered the J.C. Whitney seal referenced in the first post of this thread. Installs pretty easy, the welting pushes on easy enough ... looks great. Only problem is that the door absolutely won't close - no matter how hard you try to slam the door. That was Plan B. Anybody know the current sources for OEM for a 240 ??? (that would be Plan C ! )

I was browsing the (former) VB catalog as you posted! Thanks, I'll check it out.

Vague memory returns ... was that a conical shaped bumper? In any event, I'll check the catalogs for the original part - otherwise, I'll find a rubber plug to fill the holes on both sides. Thanks

Does anyone know the purpose of this hole on the door jamb? Perhaps to let moisture evaporate out of the dog-leg area? Perhaps it should be plugged to keep water OUT of the dog-leg area? I just can't recall whether that hole was open or plugged back when I bought the car. Comments, suggestions ...

Seems like a lot of us still have our original spares. I still have my original Bridgestone RD-150 in the spare tire well - holds air fine. It's probably been on the ground 3 or 4 times, for just a few miles each time, over the years - the last time was more than 20 years ago. Not sure I would want to drive very fast on it but I could limp home on it if I get a flat ...

FWIW - ammeter in my 6/72 reads to 45 amps.

My 1972 FSM shows the L24 alternator as being rated at 45 amps

On the squeal - are you sure the fan belt is tight? The other symptoms could be fan belt as well. Was the alternator you installed a fresh rebuild? How old is the battery?

In my case, the stock alternator, voltage regulator, and the capacitor are all stored in a box ... just in case ...

Noise as in RF interference? If so, since I don't have a radio installed in the car it's not problem!

Finally got to this project today. Removed the stock voltage regulator and plugged in the adapter; then installed a rebuilt alternator for an '83ZX. Both ammeter and voltmeter readings are more stable than the stock set-up. The increased amperage at lower rpm of the new alternator give brighter lights at idle. A good swap - works great. Now, does anyone know what the purpose is of the capacitor that is plugged into the wiring harness and mounted on one of the voltage regulator mounting screws. It's been there since the car was new but I don't see this device on the '72 wiring schematic. In any event, I unplugged it and everything seems to be working OK.

My adapter arrived today - looks good. Thanks Arne.

Interested enough to finally register! PM sent.