bobs77

Thanks Will. If the 240 foam doesn't work I'll take you up on it. Bob

Anyone know if the replacement seat foam for a 240 seat will also fit a 280 seat? I'm ordering a seat cover kit from Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun and need to replace the foam on the drivers seat. The foam they carry is only specified for 240 seats.

I got a call from them this morning. Apparently you're supposed to put the rivet into the panel hole and hit the pin with a hammer to release it from the head. Not quite what I want to do to 29 year old plastic panels. But even if that worked the finish on the head is pretty bad, dull and very uneven. You get what you pay for. That said, the seller definitely wanted to keep me happy. There were no problems getting a refund.

I thought I found a good source of rivets on ebay, Florida Auto Fasteners--20rivets for $8.99. They arrived today and I found out why they were (relatively) cheap. Besides a dull and very rough finish to the rivet head, the center pin is actually molded onto the head of the rivet! What a unique way to prevent the pin from being lost.

Will, any luck locating pics of the speaker enclosure?

Has anyone used the seat reupholstery kits with velour inserts that MSA and Z-Specialties sell? I was told by Z-Specialties that the velour makes the seat cooler in the summer and warmer in winter, but that might have been salesman-talk. Anyone know if it was offered as an option in new S30's?

I'll take the mustang off your hands.....

I second what Carl wrote. They were on my '77 when I bought it 4 years ago--the passenger mirror was hanging against the side window, the driver's side got that way a couple months later. I figured out a way to "rebuild" them so they stay in place, but they didn't have a lot of adjustment. The passenger side is just for looks now.

Sorry--the link to Mr. Injector didn't come across. Here it is:

Welcome to the wonderful world of old cars! This won't be the first time you fix one thing only to have something else pop up. I just went through refurbishing the FI system on my 77, and have to agree with Webdawg's suggestion to send the injectors out to be cleaned (you don't want to have to take this system apart again to do this later). I used Mr. Injector . You may want to also include the Cold Start Injector. Replacing the injector connectors is another worthwhile project. This same connector is also used for the Cold Start Valve, AAR and Thermotime switch. You can find them with pigtails attached for about $3.95 each, or if you can buy a kit at Overboost.com, $12.60 for a kit of 8 connectors, and attach them yourself. Good luck.

Also noticed the gas cap door has a lock. That wasn't carried over from '71 to '72, was it?

I second what a7dz said, good to see another WA Z owner. Very nice looking car--how about more pics?

That sounds like a great price. I had a local Z specialty shop do mine ('77 280) and it was a lot more than that.

Nah, just curious about the market.

Can you tell us how much?

Stephen, The MSA kit isn't needed for the front, even with larger than stock front wheels?

Well the soldering iron worked.......not so good. Lots of smoke and burning rubber smell, but very little cutting. And this was with a new 150 watt soldering iron. I ended up using a razor blade knife to cut off all but the part inside the collar at the end of the hose. I had to pry that out of the collar using the tip of a small screwdriver. Not a fun job. Now to send them off for cleaning and flow testing.

Thanks for the info. I bought extra FI hose so I'll have enough to replace the coolant lines, incuding the one Tom mentioned. I'm heading out now to remove the hose from the injectors, using the soldering iron method for the FSM.

I'm going through this now on my '77. One of the hoses connecting the rail to an injector was leaking so I pulled the rail off to replace all of the hoses in the system (don't want to do this job again). I'm also going to replace the seals for each injector (MSA shows 2 per injector). I'll also check out Bill Johnson's injector cleaning service. But this brings up another question. After pulling the rail off I noticed several original braided coolant hoses bringing coolant to a housing underneath the AAR, and then to the thermostat housing. One of these makes a sharp 90 degree turn so it'll need a preformed hose--guess I'll have to hit up Courtesy. Any idea why coolant is routed here? Thanks, Bob

For a daily driver--no racing--where would you guys suggest installing rubber, and where would you install urethane?

I need to replace the hoses that connect the injectors to the fuel rail in my 77 Z, so I pulled out the trusty FSM for a few pointers. The FSM method to remove the hose from the tail piece of the injector is to use a soldering iron to make a 3/4" (ok, officially .787") long slit, then pull the hose off the injector. Has anyone done this before? Any other ideas? Thanks, Bob

Thanks for the feedback. It threw me because the console I'm replacing doesn't have this slot.

Guys, I just received a new console from Courtesy Nissan (part number 96911-N4725) for my '77 280Z and noticed it has a slot in the top of the console, right where a choke lever would attach. But since 280Z's are fuel injected there is no choke lever.... The console came with a plug in this slot, but it's still pretty obvious it's there. Courtesy advertised it on their web site as fitting 1977 & 1978 280Z's--no other years listed. I'm trying to keep the car as original as possible so I don't want to put in a part that's obviously not correct. Any ideas about why the console has this slot? Was this used on early '75's? Thanks, Bob

Ian, Series 1 240Z Bob