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bobs77

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Everything posted by bobs77

  1. bobs77 replied to santamaus's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Chris, Try Z Specialties in Snohomish for parts. He's not the cheapest around, but he has lots of donor Z's around his shop, and decades of knowledge. He may also be able to point you in the direction of a body shop that knows Z's. Bob
  2. What does a 280Z ZAP have that non-ZAP Z's don't have? Bob
  3. bobs77 replied to bobs77's post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    ZSaint's shroud has the same bolt hole spacing as my radiator, so we got a match. Still wondering why the 2 piece shroud I bought a few years ago wouldn't fit--the hole spacing was about 3" longer in each direction than my radiator. Could this shroud be for a 260Z? Bob
  4. Tracy, What did the new suspension cost? Bob
  5. bobs77 replied to bobs77's post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I thought any 280Z shroud would work, but I bought one a couple years ago from another member and tried to install it on the new MSA 3 row radiator I bought last year. No go--the shroud was wider than the radiator.
  6. bobs77 posted a post in a topic in Engine & Drivetrain
    I'm looking for a fan shroud for my '77 280. Will a shroud from any year 280Z fit? Thanks, Bob
  7. bobs77 replied to bobs77's post in a topic in Interior
    I was thinking the same thing. I thought if I could feel the screw head or see it with a mirror I could get a screwdriver on it, but I couldn't do either. Maybe if I can remove the potentiometer for the dash lights (the nut that holds it in place is buried too) I'll be able to get to the screw. If not I'll buy different sizes of the smallest metric set screws I can find and maybe I'll get lucky. Thanks anyway. Bob
  8. bobs77 replied to bobs77's post in a topic in Interior
    I got the knob off, the problem is the cable is attached to the dash by a screw. Getting access to that screw is the issue--it's buried in the back of the dash. I tried using a mirror to locate the screw, but couldn't see it. I ran my finger along the cable to try to feel the screw head but still no luck. I don't want to pull the dash just to get to this screw. Any other suggestions? Bob FSM of reset cable.pdf
  9. bobs77 replied to bobs77's post in a topic in Interior
    Enrique, you hit it on the head. I pulled the tach out and saw the end of the reset cable dangling 3 inches away from the speedo. No set screw in sight. I tried to remove the other end of the cable so I could take it to a hardware store to find a set screw, but no luck. According to the FSM there is a screw holding the cable end to the dash, but I can't get to that screw without taking off the dash. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bob
  10. bobs77 replied to bobs77's post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Thanks for the suggestion--I'll give it a try.
  11. bobs77 replied to bobs77's post in a topic in Interior
    Thanks guys. I looked at my copy of Wick's book and the FSM for back up. I'll take a look at the set screw--I might get lucky.
  12. bobs77 posted a post in a topic in Body & Paint
    Anyone have any experience "reattaching" a fuel filler door to it's hinge? I have a '77 Z and made the mistake of backing into the filler door while I was filling the tank which slightly pulled the door away from the hinge. When I open the door now I have to slide my hand up against the inside part of the hinge to push it open instead of pulling the door open. Thanks, Bob
  13. bobs77 posted a post in a topic in Interior
    Anyone know of a source for a trip odometer cable for a '77 Z? No mention of it in MSA or VB. I haven't pulled the speedo to verify, but I'm guessing the tip of the cable is broken. When I turn the reset knob I can feel the cable moving, but the trip odo doesn't change. Thanks, Bob
  14. Enrique--Sorry, can't take you up on breaking something on the car--it's been doing that on it's own the last 15 months. Thanks for the feedback--good to know I was on the right track checking this out. The interior's back in now after doing all the fixes on the winter to-do list. Just waiting for the Washington weather to dry out a little to take it on the road. Bob
  15. 37 views and no replies? Am I the first to come across this? OK, I'll offer a fix for anyone who has this problem in the future. After going through the tests in the first post I checked the circuit further upstream. I should have had continuity from the flasher plug to the switch connector--but didn't. There's one harness connection between the two, located just below the heater control valve. I pulled this connection apart and found the pins were corroded. (I had a leaky heater control valve last year which leaked coolant into this housing.) I cleaned the pins using Deoxit and an old toothbrush, and now have working hazard lights.
  16. First post here, hope someone can help solve this. The hazard lights haven't worked since I bought my '77 Z almost 4 years ago. I've gone through the FSM and came up with the following: --checked the fusible links for continuity--~.4 ohms, and power--~12.4 volts at the end of each link; --verified the 10amp fuse in the fuse block is good; --verified I have ~12.4 volts at the hot terminal (red with white stripe wire) of the hazard flasher; --pulled the hazard flasher out of the car, put 12 volts across the terminals and heard it clicking on and off; --tested continuity of the switch per the FSM, and it's working like it should. I'm stuck. Any ideas of what else should I check? Thanks, Bob

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