joefarnarkler

original? I'm guessing you mean old stock, aftermarket since Nissan didn't sell the 240z with mud guards, nor offer them as "Nissan" accessories.

most tire manufacturers currently recommend replacing tires at least every 6 years whether worn out or not. Age and exposure to the elements (not necessarily visable dry rot) impacts the structural integrity of the tires.

Brass or teflon bushings in this application will get the $^!# pounded out of them in street driving. Unless you plan to dodge EVERY pothole, speed bump, and every other surface irregularity. These materials are not a viable option in my opinion.

The only way a rear swaybar from a 280Z would fit on a 71 240z is if you also chisel the mounting brackets off the 280 and weld them to the 240. There are much easier ways to get a rear anti-sway bar for a 240.

100 lbs difference??? Better check the data tags in the driver side door openings (B piller) for weight listed. Lots of detail differences between the two chassis also. imo, not worth the effort to create a bastard car in this manner. keep looking for a 240Z chassis.

Kewl, cover illustration of Frank Leary's Frogline Racing Z. Used to see that car on display at Pierotti Nissan in Fremont, Ca back in the day.

I think a more fitting memorial would be to gather monetary or other contributions to (either) an organization that provides assistance and services to the families of soldiers who have lost their lives in service of our country, or to a charity of the fallen soldiers preference, and make the donations in the name of these men. At a time like this, I think doing something like that would be of more benefit and be more meaningful to the families involved. Alpha - Mike - Foxtrot May They Rest in Peace my $.02

S.N.A.F.U. (no respect for anyone)

if you have already checked all the picknpulls in the eastbay and sanjose area, i'd contact N.O.W. but that's just me

my opinion is: if they really do serve the same purpose, and are really are the same class of tire ............. TOSS A COIN and be done with it.

it seems to me that sblake01, and gator are saying that the console with a choke lever slot covered by a blanking plate IS the "original look" part since that p/n is listed for production beginning 8/76, thus for 77 and 78 model s30's in the USA. am i understanding you guys right?

they'll be up and out of the house in a few short years anyway, so keep the Z besides they will be safer at home and your hair will last longer if they aren't running around unsupervised.

never heard of overpacking a hub with grease causing the rotor to be terribly difficult to rotate. if you replaced races and bearings, i'd suspect that possibly the races weren't installed squarely in the hub. it is also possible that you've overtightened the spindle nut causing the bearings to bind up. btw, i'm not sure that i'd use a comparison of "how it previously was" to "how it currently is" as definitive proof that it was right in the first place or wrong currently. bearings could have been adjusted incorrectly in the first place. there is a specific spec that is described in the FSM and most other shop manuals that you should refer to when adjusting and confirming that the bearings are adjusted correctly.

thank you.

having previously used both methods and never having the puller fail, my bet is that it would have worked just fine. But, HEY, as long as you got them out it's a moot point now.

They are a common and well known brand. http://www.dynomax.com/ scroll to bottom of page and click "Where to Buy" then select "Dealer Locator" Type in your info. Done. (17 hits within 50 miles of you, plus Summit and Jegs)

Nate, I did forget to mention that I was using a 12 point box end wrench. That could certainly make a difference. As for casting changes, I'm not sure. I originally used a wrench that my dad bought decades ago, and took it in for replacement about 4 years ago. Glad you got them out without using a sawzall.

It is that easy on my car. Can't imagine why it isn't on your car. Unless..... As I mentioned, I use a box-end wrench (12mm X 14mm), not a combo. maybe that's the difference.

I always use a standard issue Craftsman 14mm box-end. Havent had any problems, just rotate the shaft till there is enough room to reach one of the nuts, apply wrench and loosen. Ocassionally need to wack wrench with a hammer to start loosening process.

anything you do to repair it will show. I'd weld the holes closed and use it . Not sure who you'd get to buy a repaired oil pan. never heard of an oil pan rusting through. is your car a submarine?

If the car ran properly before you started working on it..... K.I.S.S. make sure you: installed the correct parts in the correct manner adjusted the new points correctly reinstalled the spark plug wiring correctly use a timing light to set the timing correctly

Really? Where is it?