Alan Pugh

Jon, I couldn't measure the winding either, the problem will be in the circuit board somewhere, it's just a matter of which component. Alan.

This looks just like mine when i took it apart. In my case I did a resistance test on the resistors and found one that had a different resistance value to what it was supposed to. I took it to an instrument repair shop, 2 days and $56.00 later it was workuing perfectly. Hope this helps.

I have seen in the past new bare blocks ordered from the manufacturer come with no engine number stampings. One case in point was an RB30 block straight from Nissan.

Or nearest offer

Tomohawk, the jell substance in the badges is like a hot melt glue, but not glue, if you get what i mean. You heat it, it softens to a honey like consistancy, pour it in the badge and it hardens. There are companies (few and far between) in Aus that still carry this stuff and restore badges. I am sure that there would have been emblems on older US cars with the same jell substance in them and there must be someone who sells it over there. Or just use expoxy resin with a pigment in it. Thanks Rick for the colour confirmation. What month in 74 was the 280Z introduced into the US?

This will either help clear things up or confuse it more. My car is a 260 Australian delivered 1977. The original fender (front guard for aussies) emblem had the burnt orange jell around the Z section. I bought new emblems from Chloe NOS and they have the yellow jell around the Z section. So in 1974 in the US your 260's would have had yellow around the Z and I dare say our 260's would have had yellow untill the 280 came out over their and would have then changed to orange. Is that right?

I believe Mike is right about the 2+2 being the only 280ZX delivered to Aus, and Lachlan is right about Japan and the L28 Turbo, price could be an issue with that option. Hate that pink car by the way. Alan.

Michael, Acouple of pages on they have this wheel rake. http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p1432.jpg

1152 x 864 for me.

The jumper across the ballast resistor takes it out of the system without having to remove it from the car. I'm fitting the same to my car so i'm glasd to hear that the tach works.

In theory you would end up with an elephant, but then if you had mice you'd be back to where you started.

I lived in the Northern Teritory of Australia for quite a few years, and the geckos end up out numbering the spiders. Then when they get big enough they leave their own mess every where to be cleaned up every morning. The extra trouble then is that the snakes then come in the house to get the geckos.

Gav, You are realy in a typical catch 22 situation here, and I will stress at this point this is purely my opinion learnt over time, and a lot of wasted money and perfectly good equipment. Do you want an engine (car) that will rev nicely up to and past 8000 rpm and still be making power, or do you want to drive it on the street. You need to worry about a lot more things than forged pistons, before you outlay any of those hard come by dollars. Alan.

One question while we are talking about stroker engines. Why forged pistons for a street car that I take it you are going to be driving on a quite regular basis.

Gav, The L14 rods are 137 not 133. The measurements were taken out of a book and as you can see there is a mistake. I should have gone back and edited the post. One day when my car is finished, I'll make it to a VicZCar meet and see everyone, but in the mean time as I tell my wife, it's a hobby not a race. Alan.