Alan Pugh

Ok Alan you've got me interested. Did you know that none of us were going to have date stamps on our clutch pedals? My brake pedal has 5Z05 plus two extra numbers a bit closer to the bottom of the pedal which are 87. My old auto brake pedal also has six numbers. Alan P.

Do any of these wires go to the canister in your other post, Can I remove this, if so they are horn relays. Only guessing but it makes sense. Alan.

Two wires at the bottom and tubes that go to the front of the car and go to nothing. My guess, Air Horn Pump. Alan.

It's probably too late for this but can you try fitting your original bonnet to the donor car. In theory it should fit with the reverse problem. Alan.

To put 7" wheels on a 180sx you need a positive offset of 45mm this gives you a back space of 147mm. To fit these to a Z with standard springs you would need a spacer a minimum of 32mm thick. I'm not sure about the S13 but I would have thought they would be fairly similar. Alan.

Hi David, I agree with Gavin on the bog in the rear quarters and what looks to be a crease up the top on the left hand side at the top of the hatch area. The bonnet leading edge looks the same as mine did and i think you will find that when you try to get the rust out you will end up with a lot of small holes, I did. The rust in the dogleg just behind the door will be the tip of the iceberg I think. The door requires a new lower skin repair section. Everything in the pictures is repairable and even the rust you can't see is repairable rust wise, but it all costs dollars. Far be it from me to discourage anyone from buying a Z but I think $2700 is too much for this car. Having said that I don't realy know what your plans are or what you want to end up with. I paid $500 for mine and it had less visible rust. If I can help in any way with sourcing parts or rust repair sections and panels let me know as i'm sure all the Aus members will. Good luck with this one or the next one you look at but don't give up. Z cars are infectious. Alan.

Mike, Lachlan was right I was talking about outer door skins and I am seriously considering sending my door trims to Jim but it all comes down to dollars. The extra 300mm on the ( station wagon ) costs quite a bit when your doing a full rebuild. 2+2's forever. Alan.

Hi David, Make sure the car is complete is very critical for a 2+2. You would think that with all the 2+2 parts cars out there that getting parts for these cars, especially interior parts, wouldn't be a problem. If only that was true. I've been rebuilding my 2+2 for three years now and I am still chasing a few bits and pieces. Make sure the bottom of the doors are okay as door skins are next to impossible to get. I hope it goes well. Alan.

Hello everyone, why is it no one ever looks like the picture you get in your head? Well here I am.

Mr C, where did you get that spoiler from? I'm after that style for my car. Thanks Al.

You say in your first post that you set the needles flush with the pistons because they weren't even close but you haven't said where they were before that. It seems to me to be on the lean side at high revs. If the needles were too high in the piston and you have lowered them this will give you a leaner mixture.. Something else to look at before you spend more money. Alan.

I'm with Gav on that one, I was always told they were parking lights so your car was visible on the side of the road at night while parked. Can't do that these days because the CAR won't let you. Alan.

The MegaSquirt FI system is going to be my next winter project. I'm thinking that it would work well on a twin throttle body injection setup off the standard inlet manifold. This would actually convince me to get rid of my flat tops.

What is the colour of the car, I can't see it anywhere and my computer at work won't let me into the site in your post.

There is no charge getting to the battery, so you need to check the whole charging system. Loose or burnt connections first then delve deeper. Alan.