Alan Pugh

Jon, I couldn't measure the winding either, the problem will be in the circuit board somewhere, it's just a matter of which component. Alan.

This looks just like mine when i took it apart. In my case I did a resistance test on the resistors and found one that had a different resistance value to what it was supposed to. I took it to an instrument repair shop, 2 days and $56.00 later it was workuing perfectly. Hope this helps.

I have seen in the past new bare blocks ordered from the manufacturer come with no engine number stampings. One case in point was an RB30 block straight from Nissan.

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Tomohawk, the jell substance in the badges is like a hot melt glue, but not glue, if you get what i mean. You heat it, it softens to a honey like consistancy, pour it in the badge and it hardens. There are companies (few and far between) in Aus that still carry this stuff and restore badges. I am sure that there would have been emblems on older US cars with the same jell substance in them and there must be someone who sells it over there. Or just use expoxy resin with a pigment in it. Thanks Rick for the colour confirmation. What month in 74 was the 280Z introduced into the US?

This will either help clear things up or confuse it more. My car is a 260 Australian delivered 1977. The original fender (front guard for aussies) emblem had the burnt orange jell around the Z section. I bought new emblems from Chloe NOS and they have the yellow jell around the Z section. So in 1974 in the US your 260's would have had yellow around the Z and I dare say our 260's would have had yellow untill the 280 came out over their and would have then changed to orange. Is that right?

I believe Mike is right about the 2+2 being the only 280ZX delivered to Aus, and Lachlan is right about Japan and the L28 Turbo, price could be an issue with that option. Hate that pink car by the way. Alan.

Michael, Acouple of pages on they have this wheel rake. http://www.eastwoodco.com/images/us//local/products/detail/p1432.jpg

The jumper across the ballast resistor takes it out of the system without having to remove it from the car. I'm fitting the same to my car so i'm glasd to hear that the tach works.

In theory you would end up with an elephant, but then if you had mice you'd be back to where you started.

I lived in the Northern Teritory of Australia for quite a few years, and the geckos end up out numbering the spiders. Then when they get big enough they leave their own mess every where to be cleaned up every morning. The extra trouble then is that the snakes then come in the house to get the geckos.

Gav, You are realy in a typical catch 22 situation here, and I will stress at this point this is purely my opinion learnt over time, and a lot of wasted money and perfectly good equipment. Do you want an engine (car) that will rev nicely up to and past 8000 rpm and still be making power, or do you want to drive it on the street. You need to worry about a lot more things than forged pistons, before you outlay any of those hard come by dollars. Alan.

One question while we are talking about stroker engines. Why forged pistons for a street car that I take it you are going to be driving on a quite regular basis.

Gav, The L14 rods are 137 not 133. The measurements were taken out of a book and as you can see there is a mistake. I should have gone back and edited the post. One day when my car is finished, I'll make it to a VicZCar meet and see everyone, but in the mean time as I tell my wife, it's a hobby not a race. Alan.

Justin, get yours machined, or do you need it ready to go before you pull apart. Alan.

Steve, Glad it all worked out and thanks for posting the fix. Quite often you never know if the advice you give is right or wrong. Alan.

I believe we are in agreement Richard, about the fuel injection, but i'll agree to disagree about the dyno time for the average person who just wants to get rid of their carbs, in favour of fuel injection. The fixation on O2 sensors I can't explain. When first setting up Volumetric Efficiency tables it can be quite handy as a referrence but that's about it. Maybe in the states they use it as a shortcut to change injector timings in the ecu, just means you don't have to be as accurate with your tables. Alan.

Mike, At the moment Megasquirt can not do sequential injection, we have to wait for UltraMegasquirt. I recomend the reading of this F.I. system to anyone who has the inclination to do this change from carbs. Alan.

Richard, I agree about the use of a Dyno for fine tuning. Not everyone has the money for this, and the same could be said for carbie setups. Megasquirt is an economical F.I. system that can be tuned to your car by trial and error (not too much error) with a laptop computer in real time. Once this is done, then go to a dyno and fine tune. It's a good system and an inexpensive way to ditch carbies or to give yourself the abillity to change ecu settings on the spot, which you can't do with the standard Nissan ecu.

I think the Megasqirt system is great from the point of view that you can do all your own mapping from a laptop at home or in real time while driving the car. For money spent you get a great project or you can spend more and get a pre-assembled one. What better way is there to learn something, than doing it yourself. If you get stuck along the way the forums are there to help you through. Yes you can get stock ECU's re-mapped and coded, but you can't do it from home & you can only do it to best guess unless you find someone who has a lot of experience on these ECU's. Megasquirt is worth every penny in my opinion.

Tomohawk, In your profile you list your occupation as scientist/chemist. Sorry buddy but i'm not seeing it in your responses.

Hi Mike, Yeah I know what you mean about fencing wire. I thought 80 was a bit high and will probably knock it back to 50 just to be safe. Yes the white covers are available as spares, you quite often see them on ebay. I got mine from Vic British when I got some other stuff, can't rememeber the price. Alan.

Tomohawk, I too have played with R.C. models when I was younger, and see your point about the D.C. motors in models. Here in the club we're playing with real cars with petrol engines that just isn't the same thing. The way your talking there should be cars bursting into flames all over the place. It's a fusible link, it's designed to blow before that happens. If i'm ever drawing 100 amps out of my 7 volt car battery i'll heed your warning. Dave, What i've worked out is the 2 Brown wires are 30 amp and the Black is 80 amps which seems high so i'm still trying to find out more about the Black wire.

The advantage for me is the availability of the new style cartridge type. $2.95 each, and available everywhere as opposed to the old wire type which are hard to find these days. I also have too much time on my hands I think.

No I don't. If the harness ever gets hot enough to melt the soldered connections that will be the least of my problems won't it.