Jeff Bolin

the www.zhome.com has a lot of information, but I must admit that I am not seeing any real conclusive answer to how many 280 2+2 were made does any one have any other data source that I might look at? Oh and at that sane site there is a reall cool data chart but I can't read japanese hahahah thanks folks

thanks that helps I'll do that

So if I were the MVD how would I know this isn't a California car? I mean I could take the cat off the floor sensor out and blank out the light and remove the altitude sensor and that would be that but it could be a Calif car so how would I know it was not and that it didn't require a catalytic converter and emissions testing?

duplicate message sorry

I am looking for answers here .I have a 9/77 buildt 280z 2+2, because of the late year manufacture, I can assume that it is conscidered a 78. Any way It does no have a catalytic converter installed. It has a hood sticker that says non catalytic, but if I remove the hood for another one what tells the MVD that it does not require one and that I just didnt take it off? I know about the floor temp sensor and the light in the center dash just below the vents on the left opposite of the fuel light and none of those are installed ,but what tells the MVD that this is a non catalytic car, is there some where else that it is spelled out? any one out there got any ideas??????

that is cool I will wait the outcome of your investigation

\that sounds good I would almost rather pay the extra to you then deal with an idiot like that guy at the junk yard to me he is a moron

no they have different connectors on the wires the 76 will have a connector with flat blade contacts in it and the 78 will have connectors with round contacts in it if you need a switch for a 76 let me know I have two thatI cant use I have a 78 well july 77 so I think it is considered a 78 any way I know the switch came off a 76 because I took it off personally any way let me know if I can help

take a look at the pressure regulator at the pump or look at the fuel rail pressure regulator or the vacuum line to it you might want to pull the lower hose of fthe tank and make sure it isnt partially blocked that happened to me it was bad gas sludge i cleaned that out and all is good on that end BTW how are you measuring fuel pressure>? if your pump is starving I would pay close attention to the lower supply line if the tps goes bad you will get a surging motor I had that about 3000 rpm it would surge I found the contacts were corroded I cleaned the same and used silicone grease and bingo no more tps issue the afs can cause your pump to die out if the switch contacts are some how fouled (dirty corroded) but I would make sure your fuel delivery is good first then work my way forward be safe have an amaZing day by the way I am running an aftermarket pump also I didnt need to prime it all

there is a problem with trying to just run the gas through the filter the are only a few ways that I have found to make the fuel pump run. you can either jump the fuel pump relay, you can go direct to the fuel pump its self ,if you have a power source IE a good battery and jumper leads and hook direct to the pump. or you can go the long way and figure out how to jump the oil pressure switch and the alternator switch. Both of the latter are what tells the pump to run when the key is turned.( I bet you noticed that the pump didnt run until you turned the motor over huh) and just kicking the starter won't make it either, since the fuel pump relay does not latch (on). But when you do succeed in getting the pump running ,there will be a considerable amount of fuel running all over the place believe me. For this little problem I went to Home Depot and bought a length of that clear plastic tube and ran it from the filter back to the tank filler then kick off the pump and watched the fuel flow. If you still have issues with rough starts you might want to look at the cold start injector. or the switch that controls it . you know where the cold start injector is located but the switch is located just below the thermostat housing it is the larger hex nut in the housing the other is the water temp sender. I forget what the exact name for the thing I think it is called a thermaltime switch but I am sure, some one here can tell you. Any way you can't miss it.Look right under the hose attached to the housing and radiator. those are the two ususal suspects for rough idle that and of course dirty injectors but you took care of that issue. If you have any other questions I am real good with this silly fuel injection system I have a 77 280 2+2 these things are a kick in the pants the motors are almost bullet proof. as long as the oil is pumping you got no worries hahaah take care jeff bolin 73 capri 2600 74 capri 2800 73 MGB roadster 77 280z 2+2 88 ranger XLT 92 transport 04 toyota 4 runner and boats and motorcycles and kids and dogs and cats hahahahah have a ama(Z)ing day

Ed I just got off the phone with the guy there ,he told me that I needed to come there and see for my self then he would cut out the floors. he also told me to be honest he wasn't that interseted in selling them . He said it was a lot of work for not much money.. sheeeez a couple hundered bucks inst worth it ? what the hell does he think he has there gold I'll figure something out

what do you think we are looking at for price?

Man I just got off the phone with the guys down there and they are telling me that I need to come down there and see them and then they will cut them out. but he also said that he wasnt that interested in selling them he told me that it was a lot of work for not that much money my days off are friday and sat he said that those were his busiest days and that saturday he is closed can you email me at seanemesis@msn.com and maybe we can make other arrangements? I dont know if I can change my days off I had to fight like hell to get what I have now. email me

I have a 78 280 2+2 that has an engine with NO CATALYTIC this is factory (gotta love it) any way my question is, it has a dash pot with a white plastic fitting on the top that appears to need a hose attached. The problem is I can not for the life of me find any thing that tells me where is gets hooked up to or even if it does get hooked up to anything at all .I do know that when I blow air into the end with a hose is does make the car accelerate a little. Does any body have any ideas about this?

If you get a chance to go back there take a screw driver and poke at the pans that is how I found the rust throughs I will call the place today and see what he thinks of the rust spots also but if you get a chance it would be better then having him tell me there isnt any rust throughs only to find there are as for the cut he wants to do that is not a problem I can bring a trailer down it isnt that far of a drive. a good weekend trip for the wife and I I certainly could spring for dinner for all your help thanks again