KenshinX

I'll be there! hope to see some awesome Datsuns.

yea I was going to check it out tmrw evening hopefully its only 30miles from my house Ill decide then. if it needs work Ill offer $300. Thanks for the info.

Im also looking into getting a datsun pickup do you think this is a good deal ? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38282

So I'm assuming the 620 was a good truck? According to this site it gets 39/48 mpg if this is true with carbs this truck is an excellent deal.. http://www.mpgomatic.com/2007/10/08/super-cheap-high-mpg-cars-1978-1981/ it shows that the Datsun PICKUP 2WD does 39/48

Awesome deal.

found a Long bed 1980 datsun pickup carb'd automatic trans. with 115k for $400 I am looking for a small pickup to haul stuff and parts and was wondering is this a good choice for my needs. Seems like an ok deal. The guy just wants to get rid of it and not crush it. I was thinkin about offering a lil less. Are any 1980-1983 720 owners that can vouche for the dependiblity and amount that it can haul? any input would be nice Thanks! Pros: 115k miles! $400 long bed datsun Cons: carb'd rusty needs tires rusty

rahail240, could you post pics or could you tell me if the inside of the bumper is hollowed out like a regular 240z bumper. I'm thinking of buying a CF bumper from MSA and Modifying it to fit my 260z bumper shocks.

Woah. I wish i could attend.

Nevermind. Got it fixed. Now I need to get the exhaust brackets replaced. I'll try to do it myself If not I'll get a friend who owns a muffler shop to do it. The main brackets are sold at pep boys for relatively cheap. Thanks everyone for the input really.

Are you serious??

1997 Toyota Corolla CE. 19k when I bought it 2yrs ago. 41,000mi now. :/ But it will last forever I have pwr everything too which is odd for a ce.

Pics. Damage done (dented my exhaust pipe): Passenger side (knocked my bracket loose): Rear (broke my rear bracket): As for the rear should I take it to a muffler shop to get the bracket replaced? I have twice pipe (I think) it was on the car when I bought it. Not sure where to get that bracket piece from.

Is there anyway to fix my lock mechanism without replacing it? The drivers side door will not close at all because the mechanism is in the rong direction I tried turning it but it will not move all the way to the correct position. I cleaned all the gunk and it moves freely but just wont move int he right position. Btw this is a 74 early model 260z with the striker plate on the jam below the date stamp. Passenger side (correct) Driverside (turned backwards)

Thanks I will try that. So I should save the NOS bolts I ordered?

Well, I have been trying to figure out for the longest time what the heavy vibration my car does at any speed above 35mph. I balance the tires etc. The balancing helped a little. But after last monday I think I know the culprit. Anyway, long story short I was on the interstate driving and then boom I hear this long rattle and after words I run over several metal pieces. I pull over immediately and check underneath. I see my exhaust pipe hanginf kind low so i figured it fell apart. I call AAA car gets on the tow truck and the driver points out that it is not the exhaust its the driveshaft thats hanging down. Evidently the 4 bolts came out that connects it to the differential yoke. My question is is there anything else that I should check/replace when putting the bolts back in? My dad says I need new U joints as well, but the joints are only in the front of the shaft according to my haynes manual. Any help is welcomed. Also should i get the driveshaft rebalanced since it hit the street? Pictures will be posted tmrw.

Right now I am trying to fix my jammed lock mechnism and the part keeping me from even getting the door panel off is the damned plate behind the interior handle. The passenger side comes off with ease but I noticed the PO put a piece of 3M sticky tape on the back. On the drivers side he must've put friggin' gorilla glue cause its not coming off no matter how much force i put on it. I'm even using a putty knife and a box cutter at this point and I've only managed to lift the darned thing a couple mm. I need to get it off to get to the screw behind it!!!!

Very nice car! sorry for reviving an old thread but are there anyside effects to collapsing the bumper shocks?? I read in the haynes manual not to cut them. So letting the gas out should be fine correct?

Was the problem ever resolved Steve? I am having the same problem with my 260z. Although, I don't know if they ever worked since I bought the car.

I called a local radiator shop one quoted $225 and the other $90. The $90 shop seemed nicer and more helpful.

How much does it cost to get it recoated? I tried to search, but I found only one post 4 years ago that said $200.

Here is the problem, I sent my early 260z with SUs to tidewater Z to be fixed. I thought it was the fuel pump. I picked it up today he said it was not the fuel pump, but a miswiring under the dash. Well I started her up her idled just fine. I got about a block away and it started sputtering like it was not getting gas. So I pulled over to a parking lot near by and took my other car with my mother and got some gas. Came back put 2 gallons in. To my misfortune the little white pour tube that screws on the gas can fell into my gas pipe. I'm not sure if there is some sort of block before the tank, but I think it got into my tank. I hope not. Anyway, I started it up just fine and it continued to sputter at this point i began to drive back to the shop having to restart the car ever couple feet and barely made it back. My question is what could be cause this? the timing? I just changed the spark plugs. Is the carbs not getting fuel? are they out of tune?

Oh ok, thanks guys. Now for some pics! haven't been up here in a while. . I think I did darn good for my first time ever touching a spray can.

I know im digging up an old thread but is it safe to use spray paint to refinish the air box or would that be dangerous because it is flammable?

are you aiming for performance? i.e. high hp?