Si|v3r72

Yikes my truck is causing trouble and my wife needs the family car and I have to have wheels tomorrow. Here's my problem: My driver's side door won't close. Background: I replaced the door latch, outside handle, and all of the rubber for the driver's side door over the winter. This entailed removing the guts of the door and putting it all back together, which in itself wasn't that hard but I'm not a mechanic so maybe there's tricks to putting car doors together that I don't know about. Needless to say the door isn't working too well. I have to slam it really really hard to get it to latch. not a good thing for a 31 year old car door. Suspect: I think the door has sagged. I'm sure if the latch was striking the catch plate higher (say an inch) that the door would close normally. How do I fix this? I haven't touched the hinges at all. My friend tells me to open the door, grab the bottom and yank it upwards. I'm afraid to do that. Please advise. Thanks.

Sorry Dakota, I don't really have an answer. I did the same thing over the winter and ended up with the same problem. BTW, what is POR15? Did I forget to do something?

woah thanks for the heads up - red 240 panels are rare indeed and I could use a driver's side panel. mine only clips into the door in like 3 places - all the rest of the holes for the clips are ripped open where the clip attaches.

Thx bro. You sent me the list already, twice. And I have since reformatted, and lost that e-mail . I'll get up with Andy!

What is the part called that covers the bottom of the body seal welting in the door opening? It's like a threshold, but I think the threshold is the aluminum piece with the word "Datsun" on it. This piece is right behind it as you look into the car, it's metal with a black plastic covering, has a lip that covers the welting, runs the length of the door opening, and curves down into the interior of the car. It then screws into the inside of the car, near the floor next to the seat. Is this the scuff plate? I am in need of a left and right side, and I want to be sure of the name before I place an order.

Yeah, I figure the high beams in my stock headlamps aren't even as bright as most modern low beams, let alone Xenon bulbs. That coupled with the fact that most other cars' driver's compartments are much higher than mine, I don't feel it's an annoyance to other drivers. I have yet to have someone flash me for my headlamps being too bright. edit: poor grammar.

I just drive around with my high beams on all the time

A friend of mine who owns a gorgeous classic Mercedes Benz 240SL was gracious enough to provide me with a list of events hosted by the Mercedes Benz club of America. He is an avid member and welcomes participants with classic cars of all types to the open auto cross events. The reason for my interest in these events is that there are no Z events within a few hours of me (that I know of), and I have a personal contact to these events. The auto-cross events take place at Bucks County Community College in Pennsylvania, just north of Philadelphia. As I said they are open to the public, are quite affordable ($15 entry fee I believe), and from what I understand are a good time. The event dates are as follows: April 6, May 4, June 1, September 7, october 5, and November 2. Times are from 8 am to 2 pm. I plan on attending at least the first event, probably more. It would be nice to see a few other Z's representing .

Thanks for the advice fellas.

The door restoration is going slowly but well. The car is off the road for the winter so I'm not in a huge rush. I'm learning as I go and I have a much better understanding of how these doors work. So far I've managed to replace the driver's side outside door handle (new part from local Nissan dealership - $31) and inside latch, and put all of the mechanism back together. I have yet to get the window back in, but that's on hold for now. Part of what I want to achieve is a good tight door and window that doesn't whistle when I ride down the road, so I need to replace a lot of rubber. Here's my list: Sash weatherstripping Frame weatherstripping window felt door bumpers misc weatherstripping in front and rear of door What I need to know is where should I buy these parts? Should I get them from MSA? VB? E-Bay? edit: Keith, would you mind sending me the Andy Russell list again please? Thanks.

so what you're telling me is the new lights won't be any brighter w/o a wiring modification?

I was browsing through 240 stuff on E-bay and came upon this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33710&item=2401625672&rd=1 It's true the stock headlights (which I still use) are dim by today's standards, but there's something about them I really like. I'm not sure what it is, maybe the dim yellowish tint, or they way they reflect in the rear of the car in front of me. Anyway, are these good replacements? The thing that bothers me is that the profile is flat and not domed like the stock lights, so I'm worried they won't look right.

oopsies, I think I descriibed the part poorly - it's the OUTSIDE handle that you open the door with from the outside, broken on the inside, right where it attaches to the rod. Keith if it's not convenient, don't worry about it, I'll find it somewhere .

Hello all, I am in the process of replacing the driver's side door latch (inside door part), and in the process I realized my driver's side door handle is broken on the inside of the door. So if any of you have a spare driver's side door handle for a 1972 240 in good to excellent condition (2Many? ), please drop me an e-mail @ banez@comcast.net. Let me add this is my first time doing anything like this (replacing a car door latch assy), so I'm sort of flying blind. I've already completely taken the door apart (window assy and frame are out), and I'm nervous about getting it back together properly. Any advice from the pros about avoiding pitfalls is greatly appreciated. Also, since my door is apart, I'd like to address wind noise. I know I need to replace the rubber inside the window frame where the window slides up into because it is terribly dry rotted. I also need to replace the felt along the top of the door panel. Anything else I need to do to alleviate wind noise? Where should I buy the parts from? Thanks in advance. Tom

actually Ed, she's my girl. 7 year old Cleo. here's a better pic:

use vB code. the code for inserting images is ["img"]http:filelocation.jpg["/img"] (without the quotation marks - i had to insert quotations or else you would have seen a red-x) for example, my new house : the text line begins with ["img"] and ends with ["/img"] (again, without quotations).

Happy Thanksgiving to the best Z club around . Peace to you and yours.

storm, Are you referring to what zoom240 said ("In his case")? I think he meant in his situation. Have you checked the cables under the passenger side feet area that operate the heat on/off lever? Make sure it's connected to the little metal bolt with a hole in it. Read the other suggestions in the link 2ManyZ's provided, and check your vaccuum hoses.

EScanlon, It's not that I'm uncomfortable or unable, I'm just unfamiliar with the procedure, never having done it before. I assume the window track has to come out, but I'm not sure how easy or hard that is to do. If I knew the procedure perhaps it would ease some of my apprehension. I do have an MSA catalog, but I completely forgot that I had it so I'll take a look there. Thanks for the advice and thanks for not being too condesending to a newb mechanic. :stupid:

haha good answer Keith.

I need a driver's side door latch assembly (the part on the door, not on the jamb) for a 1972 240Z. Mine has a busted spring that I can't seem to fix, so I'm taking it to the shop. I thought it would be handy to have an entire latch assembly on hand in case the mechanic found any other problems with the existing one. The key here is the spring - I REALLY need that part, so if anyone has it and doesn't need it but doesn't want to part with the latch, please contact me. Thank you.

Can anyone tell me how I go about getting the broken spring out and a new one in? I've jiggled the old spring to death and it won't come out of there.

How much did you do to your bumper, or was it already like that? Mine has the two big vertical pieces and also the extra bar above the bumper. I always liked the clean look of the way you have your bumper, but I'm not sure if it's possible to get mine to look like it. BTW, nice job with the air dam - something I also would like to have. I've looked longingly at the air dams in the MSA catalog, and the one you installed is the one I've wanted.