Guycali

http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=361717&t=361717

Well, I bought this '72 last August and had just got it to running condition recently. It didn't occur to me to ask the previous owner whether he had added lead substitutes continuously with each fill-up or had the valve seats been replaced with the hardened ones when I bought the car. I just don't want to worsen its current condition any more. Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC) endorsed and approved lead substitutes were Millers VSP-Plus, Red Line Lead Substitute, Superblend 12 / Zero Lead 2000, and Valvemaster. Of the four brands, only Red Line is sold here in the U.S. I guess the generic brand I bought at Autozone won't give me much protection but at least it'll give a little peace of mind and get me on the road now. I wonder if any organization here in the U.S. had done a similar test comparison of lead substitutes? The link I provided shocked me because of the phrase "on highways". Not sure the exact legality of the ruling but it may be legal to drive with lead substituted fuel locally but not on highways. That'd be strange though because combustion efficiency and fuel economy are worse in local driving than highway at constant speed. :stupid:

For those with non-hardened valve seats in their 240z's running lead additives, did you know we are prohibited driving on highways? http://www.epa.gov/docs/EPA-AIR/1996/February/Day-02/pr-1326.html I just bought a can of lead substitues for my E88 head and it cost a little over $3 bucks/can. Not only this is a hassel but additional expense every fill-up. Is it possible to replace hardened valve seats into the E88 or is it better to upgrade to later heads like N42, N47 etc.? Also, where can I find cheaper lead additives for about a dollar/can? -Guycali

Hi, Have a set of used clutch pressure plate + disc off a '72 240z, 225mm, for someone local to use as cores. Pick up only in Pittsburg, CA. 94565. Email: guycali@yahoo.com -Wilbur

Carl, Thanks for the heads up. Sure enough, my clutch pedal had oval'ed to have about 3-4mm free play. I can weld in the bushing myself but not sure where to find 8mm bushings. What kind of material should the bushing be made of: bronze, copper, steel? Thanks. -Wilbur

Thanks BK240. I have a '72 4spd and it's all stock. I've replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. I have temporarily fixed it by disconnecting the return spring on the slave cylinder. It appears that with the return spring connected, the pushrod of the slave cylinder doesn't have enough force to overcome the tension in the spring to deliver proper disengagement distance to the clutch. The car shifts pretty well in all gears with the return spring removed. Good to know it's not the synchros. *whew* Of course, this isn't a long term solution. Either the slave or master cylinder isn't working properly because I've bled the clutch over and over again. Or it could be both cylinders. I guess my solution is to replace the slave cylinder then the master to really fix the problem. The return spring is there for a reason. Having it disconnected doesn't sit well with me. -Wilbur

Hi all, Hope you can give me some insights. I've just replaced the clutch and bled the system, drained and refilled the tranny oil, and bled the brake system. I can move the shifter in all gears okay with engine off. However, when the engine is running, I can't shift into any gears, no matter how hard I tried. I have attempted to decrease the clutch/shift fork gap but all that does is firm up the pedal travel and the problem remains. With the engine off, I can shift into 1st gear, start the engine, slowly release the clutch pedal and the car will move forward. However, I just can't shift to any other gears while the engine is turning. I do hope the problem is not the synchros but simple clutch adjustment. I'd be most grateful if anyone close to me can help me get this puppy on the road! Regards, -Wilbur

Thanks for the advice. I finally found the number to the "Hazardous Household Waste Mgmt" facility in Martinez. Their automated messaging system says they will take in "automotive care products". I'm hoping old gasoline is considered as automotive care products. They will accept only 15gal of waste maximum per trip and require proof of residency in Contra Costa County. Hazardous Household Waste Mgmt 4797 Imhoff Place Martinez, CA. 800-646-1431 -Guycali

Hiya fellas, I'm comtemplating on draining the old gas from the tank since the car had been sitting for couple years. However, my dilemma is that I'm not sure how much gas is left in the tank because the fuel gauge doesn't work anymore! I suppose I can fill up couple 5gal buckets with the drained gas but what can I do with it afterwards? I don't have a part washer bin and can't simply dump it somewhere carelessly. What did you do with the old gas you drained? Regards, -Guycali

If you're thinking about a rear brake 5-lug conversion, I'd assume you want new rotors to go with the new pads right? Here's a quote from RaceShopper.com for the powerslot rear rotors if you're interested. Still trying to find other places that carry 84-89 300zx slotted rotors... Hi Wilbur, Thanks for the interest! 1984-1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo 32-2555 (Rear) - These are Solid Rotors - 11.4" diam. $145.37 /pair. For ordering, or for more information, you can reach me directly at: 800-733-8380. Best Regards, Edwin Robinson. http://www.RaceShopper.com 1-800-733-8380 Fo non-slotted rear rotors, I found prices ranging from $30-$42/ea based on the Nissan part number I used, 43206-02P01, although I'm not 100% sure it's the correct 11.4" diameter but is listed as the rear rotor for 84-86 300zxt. Just do a search on Yahoo for "nissan parts" and enter the part number. Gosh, powerslot rotors cost twice as much than non-slotted! Are they really worth the price for the rear brake? -Guycali

I don't see the show being listed in either tvguide.com or History Channel's schedule. Do you have cable or satellite? I'm in 94597. -Guycali

Hi guys, Taking MIG welding this semester and was talking to my welding instructor today about capability of MIG welding. I informed him that I want do MIG on auto body, rotisserie, and custom roll cage. He told me MIG won't be strong enough for any structural support, i.e. rotisserie. He suggested to use Arc welding instead. So for those who had build their own rotisseries, which welding technique did you use? Is MIG good enough for building a roll cage? Can TIG be used on rotisserie and roll cage? Thanks -Guycali

I got my set of clear lenses for $55 about 2 years ago. That'll tell you how much appreciation these rare items have. Gobble up now if you can afford them! Oh, same with the rear deck repair panel... -Guycali

Some bay area folks have created a yahoo group, NorCalHybridZ, spun off from hybridz.org. Feel free to give us a shout! NorCalHybridZ -Guycali

Site is dead???

I've always had a question about that. As for most of us, we only have time to work on the Z on weekends. That means, we'd need to protect the bare metal from rusting after we strip off the paint, tar, whatever for months or years before completing the restoration. I know Metal Ready from POR-15 etches the metal and coats it with a layer of zinc phosphate. But how long does it last to offer good enough protection against rust? Having the shell primered for a long time isn't that great of an idea either since the primer is porous and moisture can get in to cause rust as well. Is there any other good way to keep it at bare metal while one completes what is necessary to go into the chassis and body, when we know for sure that the entire body work can last for a long time? The pic below shows a full weld-in cage and seems like the Z has been stripped out of its paint completely. I wonder how long has it been sitting naked? http://www.240z.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=18001 Thanks, Guycali

Has anyone used this friction system to repair dents? It seems like a plausible idea and it's been around for 13yrs. I wonder how much they charge for the set... Sunchaser Tools

Another bay area here. There is a spinoff club from hybridz.org in Yahoo groups called NorCalHybridZ. They had several small z meets already. I haven't gone to any of them cuz I haven't started tearing down my recent acquisition yet, '72 240z. Kinda feel embarrased... Soon, by golly, soon! -Guycali

You've got pm. -Guycali

Good job on the new theme Mike. It's a nice refreshing change. Although I like the XP style as well. Is there a way to display more than three threads per page? It can be finger-clicking intensive to navigate through 45+ pages in the For Sale section, for instance. -Guycali

Ron, Tried to email you at the address above but it got bounced back for delivery failure. Let me know if you have any of these items and their prices: 1. non-cracked black interior plastic trims: (2) qtr panels, (1) roof panel, (2) dog-leg panels (w/ chrome strip?). 2. non-cracked\torned black vinyl trims: (1) windshield roof panel, (2) windshield side panels, (2) door roof panels, (2) sun visors, (1) headliner, (1) hatch panel, (2) strut towers, (2) and wheelwells. 3. non-cracked\torned red tranny tunnel vinyl trim. 4. crack-free dash? (Did I ask you about it at one time? Don't remember). 5. (2) black armrests and (2) black door handles 6. non-cracked black tailight interior cover panel thanks, Wilbur

Is there an universal aftermarket embedded antenna available anywhere? My Eclipse has embedded rear window antenna and the reception is quite good. If I can find one, I'm gonna patch up the old antenna mounting hole... Guycali

Do I really need to get a tranny jack or can I use normal floor jack? The jacking head has small surface area and I'm afraid the tranny will roll off of it. Guess I can fabricate a wooden plate with chains to keep it from falling? Is this too much trouble to just change the clutch? -Guycali

Hey cool. I'm not the only one with this crazy idea of a custom cage that goes behind the dash. I don't think there is enough room to fit both the bar and the air vent tubing behind the dash so you'll have to sacrifice one or forego the other... -Guycali

OK. I finally had time to jack up the car on all four wheels to inspect the underbelly. The driver's floor has no rust but is caved inward in certain places. The guy who sold me the car said he had rust underneath driver's door repaired at one time. I hope what I'm seeing is not a sandwiched repair work. The passenger side has a crack across the floor width-wise. Should I replace the entire passenger floor or just repair the crack? The frame rails before the firewall (jacking points) seem to have caved inward a bit as well. Should I replace the rails or leave them as they are? Thanks for the help. Argh! Rust! -Wilbur