racsov500

they are performance superlites worth about $1200 new.. 5k would be right if they were genuine watanabes

interesting about the locks.. will look into it. but the holes for the locks on the doors are half fecked cause someone has tried and failed to fit aftermarket locks. but the passenger side latch is broken and the shells are rusty in the corners so its going to be easier to find a better pair of doors headlight surrounds are separate from the grill on c210.. look like this.

hay guys chasing some bits for a project ive got to suit 2 door c210, good condition parts tailshaft (auto and manual are the same yeah?) pair of doors rust free with original locks and latches in good nick.. good luck I know, alternatively a pair of locks and a passenger side latch assembly boot lid striker (bit on the lid the latch clicks on to) rear drivers side seat belt roof light console thing manual gear shifter boot headlight surrounds and grill good l24 engine with manifolds ect, box and flywheel if you have any of this $^!# laying around let me know. Im not in a huge rush to buy though. I have a L24 engine with a N47 head, oil return on the sump, water line fitting, and a banjo bolt oil line in the sump plug. its had a freshened up head and a new gasket but was blowing smoke apparently.. suit rebuild I spose. has a dizzy with new leads and some other bits hanging off it. no manifolds

yeah hence why i havent bought the last 2 the white ones is a c210, he has a nice collection of cars including some rust free c110s but they are not for sale..

tell you what im getting pretty over rust. has anyone got any 1st hand experience with metal repair in these window gutters? is it an absoloute **** of a job or just a ****? btw if someone on the sunshine coast wants this car, PM me, complete and relatively tidy but has seized engine and moudly interior (from pictured rust) very cheap if he doesnt sell it whole its getting stripped and scrapped.

boot it completely rust free, sills look ok/sound solid when you tap them apart from a few small patches. engine bay has nothing, floors are pretty bad, drivers has a hole, passenger is still solid but is rusty.

yer thing is the owner thinks the rust is fixiable and so they want to too much for it. im going back this weekend to get the car going and ill make an offer.

I have both gregories and nissan C210 manuals with wiring diagrams

well cheap enough to buy just for parts. if it was manual i would buy it in a heartbeat. it has a larger carb (hence the gay hole in the bonnet) extractors exhaust ect. complete apart from the radiator for some reason. going back this weekend with a battery and fuel to get it going. im motivated but dont have any experience or equipment for panel repairs. ive dont thick steel welding before with success but never tried thin metal. anyway if i do buy it and decide to fix it ill be over several years.

dont rely on old part numbers. if you call up and quote one the interpreter will just fire it in and if nothign comes up they will most likely just say you cant get it anymore. best way to go is to look it up in FAST and get the most recent number, often old numbers are substituted for new ones more than once. and you can go to any nissan dealership, all of the countries stock is accounted for on the computer system. its amazing what is still sitting on shelves, today I ordered a brand new mr30 bumper skin for example. I got a clutch hose for a r31 and the package for it was dated 1992.

add to that a hole under the accel pedal and a hole in the battery tray. too far gone or fixiable?

hey guys im looking at buying a hardtop c210 however it has a few bad spots of rust in the roof along the chrome trims, has actually got holes in some spots. the doglegs look ok though and the panels look pretty straight. has anyone tried to repair this kind of rust before themselves? or would this be too hard for the home DIY restorer and the car not worth fixing?