Maddos

I've recently converted my 260 to an L28 EFI. I installed one of these filter boxes which I purchased from someone on this site (thanks). I had to swap as Australian regs won't allow me to keep the pod filter as I had fitted legally unless I enclosed in a box. Took the car for it's first real good run this weekend and it feels strangled. Is this a common observation between these air intakes or am I imagining it? I know pod filters are designed as "performance" modifications, just didn't think I would notice much difference. On the plus side, think my fuel economy really improved over. Did about 700km over 2 days was getting about 11-12 litres per 100klm.

Are they fused seperately? Been so long since looked at mine can't remember if left / right have own fuse or if hi / low.

Try dumping the fluid and rebleeding.

Are you sure about CSA of those wires. Seems strange the highest current rating would be the smallest.

Manual recommends 8 deg BTDC.

Same. Only with my new windcsreen rubber fitted it actually comes through between the glass and rubber. Fine if you just wash car, but if driving in the rain seems to help push through to pool on the inside of windscreen and then trickles down inside of firewall. You hardly notice it because of the water on outside of glass.

One of your bigger issues will be a compressor with enough capacity to affectively keep up with your blaster. I'm currently setting up a soda blasting division at work. We're paying $6000Aus for a 90cfm compressor which will probably be borderline. The blasting company recommend 1cfm / psi of pressure used, automaotive is around 100 psi max. The blast unit we are purchasing comes with water attachment to keep dust to minimum. This unit is worth $13k Aus though. http://asbsupplies.com/ We are getting the SS4 smaller brother the SS2 which is same but with a 45kg hopper. I tend to agree with the above though, if you're not setup properly, doing your car can be painful. I bought one of the cheap blasters off ebay and found my compressor rated at about 10cfm seriously lacking. Would get about 10 secs of blast before pressure would drop enough so as not to be reomving paint effeciently any more. It is handy to have in the shed though. If we weren't purchasing this setup at work, my 240 was going to a local soda blaster for $1k strip job. Well worth it after my last chemical/ wire wheel strip job.

From a fellow ET working in ROVs, good luck, something always comes up in our field.

Might want to check the manifold gasket he replaced has the cutouts for the injectors. If it's the carby style will be restricting fuel flow. Someone else on this forum I think had the same issue.

Found a NSW Police Officer shirt badge in one of mine.

My clunking between gears which I had last Saturday which I assumed to diff strap/ mount turned out to be gearbox mount??? Accelerating when depressed clutch would get a clunk-clunk which seemed to be coming from rear. Got home checked strap and diff mount all good. Checked gearbox mount and found one side of the vulcanised rubber had failed. Not sure if I was just not hearing right where noise was coming from because had straight away assumed I new what was wrong. Just another option if symptoms sound similar.

A comedy show used one in sydney the other day as a prop for a joke. Jumped out dressed like the Doc and chased after John Howard (our prime minister) whilst on his daily walk. Offered to take him back in time so he could retire on top instead of after the election he's about to lose. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuZBxsJ396M

Nice repair and thanks for the tutorial:classic:

I'd put the right manifold gasket on, due a compression test, and if all reads good - Happy Times. Think attempting to play with the head could do more harm than good unless you're confident you can do it right. I remember doing the head gasket on my 810 coupe when i was 17 and due to not removing gasket properly/ probably not tensioning correctly either, had to put it in the shop to get it done properly. Just saying I'd wait till you really think it needs it.

Just to clarify, missing your thermostat won't cause overheating, only a faulty thermostat which sticks closed will give that problem. No thermostat at all will only hurt cold running as it will take longer for engine to reach normal temp. I'd say engine labouring on about 2/3 of it's cylinders could be causing the overheating. One of my engines which had a couple of buggered spark plugs ran similar to how you describe, chaff cutter at low revs, but once revs are able to climb over say 2500 would seem to run great due to the momentum the engine now has.. Good luck with it.