Maddos

Yeah I'm a big fan of the blue, plan to have a respray before the end of the year same colour. Can't remember the tranny I used, but was just a general purpose NPN from tricky ****y. I made sure BEC were configured right but still didn't want to work. That feedback from the coil had me confused on mine, it was hidden under some black goo and didn't know if was supposed to be hooked to pad or not when scraped off for a better look. Anyhow you've got me motivated to re-visit this job. i have a later model clock in my car at the moment out of my parts car but is different look to original and in the guts has a metal can with the workings in it seems reliable

That would be great Monkeyman. I've got one apart in our workshop for about a month now. Tried what you did with the replacing electrolytics and tranny (what sort did you use?), but still didn't seem have have enough grunt to maintain oscillations. I started playing around with a 555 timer setup with limited success. Actually got duty cycle so would drive little pendulum well. Kept time well but after stopped and restarted was real hit and miss and would seem to loose sync and fight itself a bit. I was hoping to be able to build a simple and hopefully more reliable driver that you could exchange the little tansistor oscillator circuit with. Given up for now.

http://www.zippyvideos.com/1656778415701856/mvi_1700/original http://www.zippyvideos.com/5345799815701786/mvi_1704/original Goes pretty good even with the flat tops on it.

Well I sorted it out. Feel like a bit of a goose but a happy one. :: Turns out the new manifold is slightly different so that the linkage that runs across the firewall had to be adjusted out about 10mm because it was holding throttle open just a little. Quite surprised because had my finger inside carby and felt them earlier on the piece and must have only been open a bees ****. That's why I didn't suspect that was the problem. Now just need some springs tomorrow and air filter and I'm in business. Sounds great already, can't believe the difference, running so smooth and haven't even tried to adjust properly.

Okay thanks. Could anything be faulty with them that might cause this?

My "new" round top carbs that I just put on my L26 want to redline constantly. I've gone thru the Haynes set up including: *backing off throttle adjust screws *closing mixture and then back out 1.5 turns *choke is off I'm missing the springs which I assume attach down to the heat shield somewhere but have the linkage secured in the closed position for throttle. Also what does the hose fitting on the Float bowl go to? I had it just open as assumed would go to air filter, but then blocked it off to make sure wasn't causing problems. It's the one located kind of in the centre of the top plate

Yeah those poms are crazy. Funny buggers. Those pics look like a great race to watch. Is there posts as to when zeds will be racing in Sydney?

Got excited when saw Ad on SBS but was different Shannons Ad:disappoin

Just to clear up my thoery on relay repair, don't bother. Got two new caps to replace and didn't help any. Found an electronic flasher like Max was talking aboutfloating around in my parts car. Now all good. One less thing for roadworthy:classic:

I know it's not directly related to topic but has the hazard relay have a history of going "bad"? ie when switch on hazards relay clicks very fast (all indicators work correctly). I've pulled mine apart and they have a large electrolytic capacitor 1000u Farad 16 volt. As a tech I know that these have a habit of "drying out" the electrolyte and then killing the time constant set up by the associated resistor and coil. But anyway my question is has anyone had this problem before and fixed by just replacing capacitor? Or are replacement hazard flasher relays common and cheap and therefore not worth the trouble of fixing. Just another note, I pulled the flasher relay from my parts car and seems to display same symptoms ( was hooking up to external power supply to ensure car wiring wasn't causing fault as seemed like a coincidence).

Couldn't you possibly do a top coat partially disassembled and then do a completely assembled finishing coat?

Living in a reasonably warm part of Australia, I've tinted every car I've owned to cut down on heat. My Zed had crappy old bubbling tint on it when I bought it and have only just finished removing it from side windows. Have stalled at rear window although I'll have to remove it for rego anyway. Tinting place suggested an amonia oven cleaner to remove and hopefully save demister but would imagine would take element with it. So yes I would re-tint the windows but at least these days they give pretty good warranty depending on how much you want to pay.

Sounds a lot better. That's what I should be up to this weekend if my newly purchased round tops turn up on time.

I had a similar problem with my 4.1 ford transit when the fuel pump was on the way out.

it's not the tube that links front carb to rear is it?

Thats what a diffuser does

heard of superbright LEDs?

Thanks for the tip. I'll probably still have to make the oil pump go 180 to get number one pointing forward again. I'm with you, it may be a guide but if it doesn't work will have to make it up as I go.

Might have rusted out under grill in front of windscreen. It's pretty easy to remove and check, had mine off last week and only found surface rust luckily. I've also heard of the plate which bolts to your firewall (can't remember what runs through it)which is sealed with a kind of silicon leaking.

Righto, have to find somewhere local (Aus). Kind of in the same boat as you. Want to change carbs but need some spare cash to spend on it. The flat tops aren't running too bad but would like to see the difference of SUs. Might have to stick with them till swap my L28 in and put SUs on it and leave original motor stock in corner of shed.

Where can you get the kits from and how much?