shamus11

Ah, that makes sense. I accidently bought a 2+2 bootlid spoiler a while back and it was too wide, I'd also read in a gregory's (I think) manual that the 2+2's are wider but they probably only meant at the rear without saying it.

Hi, I'm wondering if those people out there with a 260 or 280 2+2 might be able to tell me what the front track (in mm) is on their car from the face of the brake rotor that the wheels bolt to. Also the distance between the bolts that hold the front crossmember to the rails. I understand the 2+2 bodys are wider but I'd like to know if a 2+2 front end would go into a 240z to increase the track without having to run 9inch & offset wheels to fill out bolt-on gaurd flares. I think setting the wheels that far out from where the suspension was designed to have them would throw off it's geometry and create excessively heavy steering and am looking for other options. If the track and crossmember were close I'd have to look at the strut tops, caster bars but they would probably be fairly straight forward to "make fit". I'd appreciate any help/advice or comments.

Ha that's funny, not long after I posted that last thread I was lucky enough to witness this car a month or so ago at a hill climb our club ran here in Shepparton. it is the one I had heard of. Man this thing is fast. I am 99% sure it's automatic and the acceleration especially off the line was by far the best on the day. Not really a zed anymore but impressive for what it is.

Hey guys, Forgive me for suggesting these two bleedingly obviouus points. On slightly different scale to a 6cyl L24 but I spent hours trying to get the lawn mower started on Sunday. Exact same thing. Had spark. Had fuel. Wouldn't start. Checked plug 50 times. Cleaned it up, gapped it. Kept coming out slightly wet with oily fuel on it. Was a fairly new plug, I had replaced it about 2 months ago. Finally got off my lazy arse and went down and got a new plug. Started first go. Sometimes under compression a plug that looks good just won't work. I don't know if it's as simple in multi-cylinder engines. If you haven't put new plugs in it I'd do that. Another embarrasing thing I've done, twice, is spent half a day trying with freinds offering all sorts of advice to get my dastun stanza to run. We'd tip a bit of fuel in the carbies and they'd run then use up all of the fuel and stop. I had no fuel in the tank! I'd used it up a the track and must have rolled on the trailer using the last litre or two. I shouldn't be admitting to this...

I fitted fridge door seals for 3 years and although these were more plastic than rubber I'd say some of the same principles apply. I used to use a heat gun on low (a hairdryer on high would be OK) to warm up the seal. If possible use a flat blade knife or something to guide it round as you close the door (if you can reach it). If you want to use a dry lubricant talcum powder will do the job but may stand out against black seal.

Ha ha I like 240z-fan's answer. I agree with his hood gap theory! Nicely put. Only wish I'd thought of it...

The Z32 R200 diffs are monster diffs and probably way heavier than you'd need (or want) anyway. They can't give em away where I am because they're too big to fit in anything easily including skylines (so I'm told). The price seems too much for what it is. I'm looking into suburu wrx diffs as they are a longnose R180 lsd like a zed, good ratios available too. I think they might be a 5 bolt patern to the driveshafts instead of 4 and either require modification or to use the suburu cv jointed driveshafts (better than uni joints). I know someone who has done the conversion into a datsun1600 (510) but keep forgetting to ask them about it so I don't know all of the facts yet.

I think different pistons would be the way to lower compression and keep the 2.8L capacity, not altering the crankshaft. If u want to lower the compression find some pistons with a slightly lower pin height or with a dish in them. There are of course turbo exhaust manifolds around for a turbo conversion. You could find out what compression they ran in the factory cars and aim for that. If I were doing it I'd run more compression and less boost. It will make it a much nice thing to drive and providing it's tuned well and uses good fuel it wouldn't be a problem. The thing will spool up quicker and be more responsive. and probably go better. No need to build a new bottom end either although if the engine is tired it would still be worth some new rings and bearings. I probably wouldn't change the compression from standard and keep to 8-10psi boost. Just my thoughts.

The one I'd heard of sounds like the one "zedevan" is talking about. It used a toyota hilux 4wd drivetrain and a Chev (I think) V8. It attended autocross events around here a few years ago. If you were going to use an RB engine then keeping the front crossmember would be an easy way (providing it fits) Sometimes you can get lucky. A good friend of mine recently put an entire front end (engine crossmember struts & gearbox) out of a nissan silva into a bluebird. The distance between the rials was very close to the same so all he had to do was slot some holes and modify the strut tops by swapping factory parts around. I'd measue the distance between the bolts holding the crossmember to the rails in both cars. If they are close I'd say it there's a fair chance it could be done. You'd also have to consider the track of the car and compare to a zed. I'd say a gtr would be wider, by how much who knows??? One problem might be the castor bars on a zed point backwards where a skyline would most likely point forwards (can't say I've looked) you'd need to fix mounts for the castor bars probably to the underside of the radiator support panel.

Wow that silver 240z with the BRE stripes is nice. Do you have any pictures from back futher to get a view of the car as a whole??? I'd like to see if how the dark grey is finnished up on top of the bonnet and how the car looks from side on. I love the BRE stripes and plan to do them on my car but I don't particularly like the entire top of the car being two tone. I've been thinking of fadeing the top stripes into the same colour and the body as they curve over the top of the gaurd but I don't know how hard that is, or whether it would look any good. I saw a picture of a datsun 2000 sports roadster with the BRE stripes continue as two thick stripes over the bonnet and down the other side. Wasn't a good enough photo to make up my mind whether I liked it or not.

Thanks for the input guys. I've been looking into the stick down matting and at this stage have decided to use it sparingly on flat panels such as footwells, trans tunel and firewall (where it will stick down nice and flat), and then use a spray in product for the places when the panels have uneven surfaces where the matting might create cavities where moisture and dirt might collect underneath the mat. I was surprised how much weight some of the people added to their car using the stick down matting. My main aim is to reduce drumminess and exhaust drone in the cabin for the least amount of weight gain. I've had an idea of laying the matting before I spray in the stone-gaurd which might help seal around the edges of the matting and produce a good sealed protective finnish.

Hi, just wondering what various people have done in the way of sound proofing their inside floor pannels for those who have had to remove all of the tar matting during thier resto. I like the idea of a single spray in product such as stone gaurd (over an etch primer of course) as it has the benefit of not allowing dirt and water to get underneath it like the tar matting can. And it's thicker coating provides good scratch protection. I'm not sure if it would offer the same level of sound proofing though. Has anyone done this and found it obtrusively loud? Has anyone used some other product and had good results? Thanks!

If you're talking about the tar mats, kero will soften it up, you can buy parts wash kero with a high flash point that will be reasonably safe, but you don't have the option of hardening it again, it will stay soft and sticky. I argee with the heat gun if you have one available.

Yes I agree with the problem I'd have at idle. I'll have to have a look at a fuel injection manifold and go from there, the initial idea sprouted from my desire to keep the clean "old school" look of tripple carbs On the computer side of things I wouldn't use anything but a autronic aftermarked computer as I have a few friends who have a lot of combined experience with these computers, they use MAP sensing Getting the carbys set up and running them until they become annoying will probably be what happens. Thanks for the link to the EFI hardware page, I know a guy running these on a SR20, great throttles, bit too dear for me though.

Someone on this forum pointed me to this link when I needed info on L28 heads. Best info I've found so far. Worth a look. I got 2 N42 heads as they have the bigger valves and good shaped exhaust ports. I'd say the FI notches would indicate a 280z as I think (could be wrong) that the L-series patrols had carbys http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

Having sucked the dreggs out of the bottom of your tank you may have sucked up some crap and blocked the fuel filter. For a couple of dollars I'd get a new one and if that doesn't fix it pull the cover off your air filter and tip a teaspoon of fuel down each carby (careful not too much) this will give the engine enought fuel to run for a couple of seconds and the fuel pump should draw fuel up the lines and fill the fuel bowls in the carbys which are probably empty. Good luck!

This particular forum doen't seem to get used often so hopefully I get a few replys. I've begun collecting bits to run triple 40mm sloex side draught carbys on my 240z (same as webers). I love the look and the sound of the side draught carbys but I'd love a car I could go out, turn on and allow to idle and warm up without worying about fouling plugs and rough running and economy. I have some experience with solex carby's as I have another pair on my stanza race car. I had the idea of making fuel rail and injector setup that fitted inside one of those big long single air filters designed for triple webers. Either mount the injectors in holes drilled in the trumpets or on seperate mounts pointing straight down the trumpets. This would mean the carbys would not be in any way damaged. Someone we always run our stupid ideas past said they expected it wouldn't run any better on the street at small/part throttle openings as the fuel would be spraying directly onto the backs of the throttles, but that at high revs and racing conditions it could be of some benefit. What are your thoughts???

As for pipe size I've been told by a well respected mentor that on N/A cars the exhaust works like a siphon. There is an ideal diameter where the air flowing out the exhaust helps pull the air behind it out. Too big and this won't happen. On a near standard 6 cylinder car 2inch is plenty. 2 1/4 is normally cheap for mufflers etc, 2 1/2 sounds too big to me. If you want to quieten it down put in a triple flow muffler. Don't use straight thru's.

Here's just a little handy hint, when putting the exhaust gasket on, grease both sides with a moly grease, this will stop it from sticking to the head or exhaust and destroying it the first time you take the pipes off!

Have you tried getting someone to stick their hand over the end of the tail pipe to almost fully block the exhaust, this will exagerate the problem and possibly make it easier to find.

Nah, a four door, I still get a bit sad, don't see too many on the roads round here.