Bonzi Lon

I imagine it was an attempt by the previous owner to cover the holes of the missing expensive badges. Most wouldn't know any better. Love the 240K's. Bonzi Lon

When my kitchen was remodeled all of the cabinetry went to the garage, including the sink. If the wife is thinking new kitchen, there is an (in)expensive solution. Bonzi Lon

If you do get an internally oiled cam, you will need to get block off plates for the cam towers where the spray bar attached. (IIRC), There should be a threaded plug in the back of said cam. Some have used the spray bar with the internally oiled cam, I can't remember the reason, insurance, peace of mind or OCD. Bonzi Lon

I've competed with the light blue car in 3 shows, the ghost flames are great, along with other tid bits this car has. This is my 73 in a darker blue, very close to 115 metalic blue. Bonzi Lon

beermanpete: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?44354-My-shifter-runneth-over-oil-in-s Post 8 Bonzi Lon

I'll follow what the Factory Service Manual 'recommends'. Bonzi Lon

The mustache bar is about 3 feet long. The diff fill plug can be removed without removing that curved bar, it may be very tight. An easy way to fill the diff, is remove the rubber plug in the spare tire well, thread a length of tubing (old garden hose) through it to the fill hole. The factory service manual has the exact amount of gear oil, not the fill till overflow method. The tubing method can be used on the transmission also, remove the rubber plug under the ashtray, on the 73 anyway. Transmission & diff drain plugs should be magnetic, gently wash off in solvent to see what they have caught. Bonzi Lon

The spot weld breakage on that bracket seemed to happen mostly to the late 73's. Mine also had only 2 not so good welds instead of the 3 that should be there. I have confirmed with quite a few other 73 owner's who also had the same breakage, only 2 welds. If our paths cross, you get the doughnuts, I'll tell you the stories. Bonzi Lon

I'll bet dollars to doughnut holes that the spot welds on the bracket to body did not hold. Did the welds come undone? Is that funny shaped bracket flopping on the end of the shock absorber? It can be welded back without damage to the outer body. My 73 wasn't my first car, it was my college car. I imagine your son would like to hear some stories. Bonzi Lon

I had to use a 3-arm wheel puller on mine for the first 5-10mm, really tight, then it slid off. What I should of done was mark, ('Sharpie') the shaft & housing before removing the wheel. After 3 attempts to get the splines right, I'm still 1 spline off. Bonzi Lon

Was this test done while listening to the "Dirty Curties Band"? Bonzi Lon

The genuine Nissan hose clamps from Courtesy arrived yesterday. All 3 different sizes have the hex head, dull zinc and might be a little heavier in comparison. Oh well, they are better than the worm screw clamps on now. I will be waiting to see what esprist has made up for a full set. Also picked up on a new braided PVC hose, 11828-E4620, for $14.39. Still need the braided heater & booster hoses. Little by little. Bonzi Lon

If it is a 73, it appears you are missing a digit in the above number. Might want to look again, dash plaque or engraved above the brake booster. Bonzi Lon

I know what you are going through, mine sat in the back room of the garage for 26 years, with a newly rebuilt engine with 96 miles on it. What would the VIN happen to be? Bonzi Lon

According to Carl Beck's list your # should fall in the 6-73. The highest May 73 number is HLS30-160968, The highest June 73 number is HLS30-167320. Bonzi Lon

Here are some pics that show differences. The black car is a 70, the blue is a 73. The 73 has the rubber side fillers, and a metal one in front of the hood. The over-riders are made a little wider and set closer to the center of the hood. The brackets are very heavy & mount on the outside of the fender wings. Bonzi Lon

Brake warning switch is on the drivers side, below the brake booster, mounted above the frame rail. Bonzi Lon

Another observation: There is a rolled edge on the snorkel (intake) of the original stock orange air box. Bonzi Lon

Blue is correct, I will elaborate: The end of the stock fuel rail return line has a smaller size hole (orifice) than the line itself. This smaller hole makes the pressure in the carbs. DO NOT alter this orifice. Another thing to look at is take the valve cover off and check how far pump arm is traveling, tightness of the front cam bolt, that holds the cam to operate the fuel pump. Bonzi Lon

The L6 will run on the front 3, just fine. I had checked plugs one day, then backed it out. It sounded strange, like a V8 actually, not the same power but running. Couldn't imagine why it was acting strange. Lifted the hood to see that the back 3 plug wires were dangling. Doh!!! In the mid 60's, General Motors along with the local dealership, donated a plastic see through, slowly spinning, Chevy 194, in line 6 engine to the School's Automotive Class. Everything worked, it was a 'see how everything works together'. model. Never thought about making a working one though. I say, go for it. Bonzi Lon

The are in the float bowl lid, accessed by removing the bolt & banjo fitting on the float lid. They are a brass mesh. Bonzi Lon

Always great information, Blue. I like my Roadster's megaphone. Bonzi Lon

No hatch vents? Bonzi Lon

I sold HLS30-00110, 12-69, in mid August for $2500, (pics & story in the archives) it was shipped to Dubai UAE. There is demand for early VIN that don't 'look' so good. Bonzi Lon

They ranged from $1.88, small fuel hose, to $3.79 for the radiator hoses. Still waiting for the 'Brown Truck'. Bonzi Lon