Bonzi Lon

I ordered 4 different sizes from Courtesy Nissan, still waiting. All 4 numbers showed in stock, however they told me they were waiting on one # to be shipped to them. Bonzi Lon

My notes show the following intake numbers on the year used, approx. E46= 69-71 4 screw SU E88= 72 3 screw SU N33= 73 Flat Top N36= 74 Flat Top Bruce is right on with the info that no documented numbers are available, ie flow rate & cc volume. However, the internet conclusion is the N36 is the intake of choice, performance wise, with round tops, bigger cam... Bonzi Lon

Since starting the refreshment of my 73 off white interior, I've come to the conclusion its going to be hard to match the different pieces. The plastic parts had yellowed over the years, so they got the SEM 15103 applied, whiter than I remember in 77, more like post #6. The door panels & dog legs aged the same rate, but not like the diamond vinyl or headliner material, they in turn don't match the new plastic panels. The chrome strip on the door panel had fallen off to reveal the blue plastic, which matches the exterior. Nice surprise there. The least expensive idea I've had is SEM all the interior white parts except the seats, luggage riser and trans tunnel, they would be the stock black. Lots of expensive ways to go though. Bonzi Lon

You might want to remeasure if you have the positive post, top or side, under the wing. I had to use a 26" with the top post and still have some slack. The OEM black one I replaced is 26", with a red one for the positive. The original black ones got me confused one day and I found out what a fuseable link smells like. Bonzi Lon

As a teenager I used to pit crew for a drag racer. One of the tricks was a box around the fuel pump, filled with ice right before the race. Later outlawed. The original silver wrap got me to thinking about a newer type of material, like No-Mex (sp), that is used in fire suits. And a heat resistant gel used in the movies. Watching "Modern Marvels, Spirits", it said 'alcohol vaporizes at about 170 degrees F'. Is there any alcohol used in your fuel? An inexpensive hand held laser thermometer might be a useful 'cool tool'. Bonzi Lon

Just throwing something out there. You said you are using the stock fuel rail, it should be the same as my 73. Can you modify it? For example, the front 2 mounts have steel pads, can they be removed and replaced with heat resistant material, ie carb & fuel pump? Use the same material between the head and bracket on the carb side. The bolt itself would have some transfer. Heat resistant bolts? Do all 4 mounting points need to be attached? Using the original silver heat resistant wrap? Just a few ideas. Bonzi Lon

I have found at the drug store or vet clinic, various sizes of syringes, without needles. They come in sizes of 2cc and up, a length of tubing gives more reach. The rubber plunger seems to be oil resistant, been using the same one for 3 years, brake fluid, gas, oil, etc. I've used them to drain the brake & clutch reservoir, put 2cc in the carbs, large one & tubing to fill the trans & diff, drained the gas tank from a mower rather than turning up side down, removing small amounts of fluid for inspection, even have one packed with grease for spot application. Bonzi Lon

I have done it on my 73, not wanting to cut holes. The covers I used were in storage for years, one was crazed, the other had a small crack, so I painted them satin black to cover the defects & the super strong magnets I glued to the interior. The magnets came from a former employer are 20X9X4 mm & very powerful. They hold each other through my open palm. I have no idea what the composition is. On the 20mm of the magnet, I glued (E-6000) the same size inner tube rubber to prevent scratching the paint, let cure. Positioned 3 magnets around the edge per cover, glued the 9mm edge to the cover & clamped in position. They were intended 'for show only' not to be driven at speed for fear of losing them. Returning from a car show, 20 miles at highway speed, I realized I forgot to take the covers off! To my surprise, they held on. Bonzi Lon

It can crack at any time. My 73, owned since 77, has had nothing but water and a soft cloth on it. It was fine when it was garaged in the fall of 09, 3 weeks later got it out to show a friend, there was a 6" crack in the center. I was sick. It was fine when put away, protected from sun and heat when out & about. I guess time took its toll. Bonzi Lon

You will need 2 of the filter gaskets (called packing) #16547-E3210, and one for the outer edge seal #16548-E3210, both of which are NLA from Courtsey Nissan, checked this morning. I'm sure some could be made. The oval ones are flat with a concave in the center to assist getting a good seal, it is 8mm wide and 4mm thick. The squeezing of the cover is what helps seal it. The metal part of the filter housing where it mates is 29mm wide. The outer seal is solid and appears to have been about 6-7mm wide, it also seals with pressure from the mounting bolts, wing nuts. I'm sure a round peice of rubber / silicone of that size could be glued in place. I want to paint / powdercoat my filter box too, and afraid they will crumble when I try to remove them. I'll figure something out. Bonzi Lon

I bought a 620 for $100 couple months ago, even drove it home, 6 blocks. The PO rolled it 12 hours after tagging it, he drove it for 3 years all crunched up. Now smoking, needs valve work. I'm going to use parts (rad, air cleaner, r bumper, small bits) for my 521 that I bought 8-09, 58k, minor rust, interior trashed, very straight body, cheap paint. It will be a fun project. I'll get some pics today. Chase, post some too. There is a site for our trucks, need to find it again. Keith, my cousin David has a 68 patrol soft top, project waiting. Bonzi Lon

I used the SEM as it was recommended as the closest available color in a spray can back in 07. You could spray a couple of sq ft of your mix on some scrap, and some SEM 15103, let dry then make a determination. Bonzi Lon

For the rubber, make your own by going to a tire shop and ask for a non-useable truck tire inner tube, you cut to fit, straps & pads, glue down with weatherstrip adhesive. I've made lots of things out of that free tube. I also found the 3/4 & 5/8 fuel line at my local John Deere dealership. Bonzi Lon

My 73 off white plastic was yellowed & the tail finisher demolished. I used 'SEM 15103 Super White', don't let the name fool you. It worked great, like Manny said. I had to get a new tail finisher from MSA, ordered in the off white, it was made of black plastic, thicker than original, needed trimmed in places, leaving black. The off white they used was the same SEM color, so no problem matching. The off white rivets & pins were an odd color compared to the SEM, again no problem spraying them. Used a paper punch in cardboard to hold the rivets, pushed the pins in 1/2 way to spray the tops. I did not use it on any other interior vinyl, yet. Get a can and try it out, only about $12.50 then. Try it. You'll like it. Bonzi Lon

I really like the way mine turned out, can't have enough polished bits. The intakes will be next. Bonzi Lon

I would suggest a dark silver to charcoal grey, peeking out from behind the 'hyperblacks'. Bonzi Lon

Yep, mine has the same whine from about 51 to 58 mph, always has. Got it in 77 with 88k, now 128k. I was told 'back in the day' it was from being broke in at that constant speed, hmmm. Years later on the forums it appears to be normal. The up side would be its like a speed-minder, you hear the whine, you know your speed, 55. Sorry Sammy Hagar, Bonzi Lon

Get the proper NGK spark plugs, for some odd reason these engines prefer them. Bonzi Lon

Correct me if I am wrong, IIRC, the single 240Z strut has more pressure to hold the hatch up than each strut used on the 260 & 280Z. The link shows 2 are needed, and the pound range. must be for 260 & 280Z. I attempted putting dual 240Z struts on mine, welded in a bracket, capture nuts on hatch, got it all together, had to put my full weight on it to close, and felt the breeze on my nose when it opened. It was promptly removed. Has anyone used one of these on a 240Z hatch? I was lucky, bought a spare in 1980. At one time in 06 I remember seeing a guy in Canada that could repair, refurbish or restore them. Bonzi Lon

My ZDDP of choice is www.cam-shield.com have been using it with regular oil since the refurbishment. The cost per oil change is about $4, some treatments are as high as $40. Research. The engine now has 10K miles. I will be taking the valve cover off for a look see & photos. I was convinced to using it (any zinc / ph product) after reading several threads on cam destruction from reduced z&p in the oil over the years. I figured it was inexpensive insurance if there is any chance. Bonzi Lon

Blue: Interesting read, as I have cam 13001-N 3626, N-36 intakes, new rebuilt Paltech carbs, header...and it does scoot. (I truly remember it as stock w/flat tops.) blue 72: Interesting read on the inner casting differences, I used to work in a ductile iron foundry, like aluminum only hotter, shows they made a change, for the better? Bonzi Lon

I see that yours is not legal yet, maybe get the other systems, brakes etc, working then address the light issue with a 'made for' or the DIY. I don't do wiring. It comes down to, safety vs cost. After my 73's refurbishment, I considered the lighting 'unsafe at night', was just like yours. I don't do wiring, so Dave's Harness was the only way. It performs as stated, looks great too, then you hide it. Bonzi Lon

I was / am going to do a cc measurement on the 3 manifolds I have, E88, N33 & N36 that is on my car at the moment. I noticed right off, a cc gain (and thus flow), could be had by cutting the balance tube bolts off flush to the inside, they do protrude. I don't have access to a flow meter, was just going to measure volume. This would be done before ANY porting or polishing, wanting to get the stock numbers. Bonzi Lon

From the information I have gathered, E-46 = 69-71 4 screw SU E-88 = 72 3 screw SU N-33 = 73 Flat top N-36 = 74 Flat top There is internet speak that the 74 N-36 has a 'little' bit better flow, and 'maybe' a few more cc volume. I haven't found positive proof yet. Bonzi Lon

The center line on the temp gauge is about 165 degrees. Bonzi Lon