Bonzi Lon

This hitch was installed at the time of purchase, 1977. It did haul an enclosed U-Haul 750 miles back from college too. Now that was a driving experience. If you need measurements I can get them for you, don't really want to sell it. IIRC it has a tounge wt. of 500 lbs, chrome plated, has a mfgs name. As you can see it has a bracket of the same dimentions that bolts through the spare tire well, and a bracket to the bumper. Upon refurbishment, it was intended to be put it back on. Polished everything up, spent some time on it, go to install it and was injured like 4 times in attempting to get it to bolt up. After that last mashed ring finger, I figured out this car did not want to wear a "trailer hitch". Bonzi Lon

For safety, the fuel tank needs to come out and all the old braded lines to the evaporation tank either replaced or removed to the minimum, getting raw fuel smell after fueling. Have one hose plugged and one seeping. It will be a good time to see how my fuel tank lining with "KREEM" held up after 2 years of fuel, there are some nay-sayers. We will see. It did cure for 2 years before fuel. Another issue is the exhaust system, for cost reasons it will be tweeked so it tucks up under a little better, maybe the muffler will fit better, extend the tip further. It now has a steel (rust) 6-2-1 header, when installed, the entire collector sits about 1 1/2 inches lower than it should compared to the rest of the underside of the car, the rest back is even worse. Tweek first, replace later. Then there is always more... Bonzi Lon

I have a set, brand new, in the box, never installed, dated 1980. Bonzi Lon

Or maybe transplant this 'idea' to them that 'they' need to replicate this sticker for an historic advertising campaign to produce world wide for free to the public. Anyone remember the STP sticker campaign? Bonzi Lon

I am so happy to hear of someone, other than myself, that loves the original steel wheels and covers. Either style, 'D' or 'Z'. I have been to 3 Z events so far and its the only car with them on, most comments are to the good. The young ones have never seen them before. First thing my ex-sister-in-law said when she saw the car was, "you need to get some wheels". :stupid: Bonzi Lon

The 240Z was in Kansas in May of 1970. The son of a Dr. was given an Orange one for his HS Senior graduation. IIRC, he had gotten it in KC. One sharp little car. It was the talk of High School. He drove the h*** out of it. I was a 14yo gas pump attendant and witnessed him smoking the tires up across the parking lot, at the station owner's egging on, 'that J** car can't do squat'. I was impressed. First import / foriegn car i ever saw do that. The first 240Z I saw for sale, I bought it. 6-21-77. Bonzi Lon

One of the few things #110 has broken is the heater control panel. The PO had to cut the lower rail off to get the AM/FM 8 track to fit. Bonzi Lon

On stubborn cotter pins I have used either a piece of wire or string through the loop to pull it out, like a tooth, with the knuckles being srcaped, every time. IIRC on mine I used one jaw of needle nose plyers and levered it out. Getting it back in was another story, but got it done, somehow. Bonzi Lon

Wow!!! That is quite the dash treatment. I imagine the work involved is extensive, however not my 'cup-o-tea' for this car. I could see another car done like that with the rest of the interior done with the same treatment. It would be interesting to know what it would cost if done though. What did your friend have to pay for it? I think all of us would like to have an idea, even though some would have to save for quite some time to afford it. Bonzi Lon

You might try alcohol, rubbing alcohol first then grain alcohol, or if that doesn't work something stonger like laquer thinner, but be careful on the amount of time it is on or the pressure used. On my mounting holes after painting I used jewlers broaches to open them up, it is like a tapered reamer, a small drill bit could cause chipping, be careful if you use it. The posts should have steel barrel clips on them to help hold them on. I also used a small dab silicone glue on each one just to be safe. Remove the inner pannel and look in there for signs of the holes on the deck lid. Bonzi Lon

I did the gas tank myself and it had been sitting for 26 years, like yours it was full of sludge and smelled awfull. Stunk the shop up for a week. I even had to throw away the plastic gas can I stored it in waiting for disposal. It will take accatone or MEK, both very flamable, so be careful if you do it yourself. Some radaiator shops will do it also. Have the rust removed by using muratic acid then have it lined. Finding a new(er) tank may be costly. Mine turned out great. Bonzi Lon

I knew there was a slight difference but couldn't remember what it was. I was thinking it was the + (cross) shape near the hazzard switch, my 73 does not have it. Still, it will be a long time until it gets repaired / replaced. Bonzi Lon

These engines were made to rev in the upper limits. I don't hit my torque curve till about 3k and take it to 5k. Getting a 3rd gear scratch at 65-70 impresses the SBC guys. It runs like a swiss watch / singer sewing machine all day at 4k with the original 4 speed. Just me, I'm keeping it a four. Have a spare in the garage JIC, (just in case). I did drive Cousin David's 5 speed to Branson and back once and I always had the problem of going from 2nd to 5th. Never did get used to it. I'll be down your way some day, David's Mom is in Oxford. Bonzi Lon

How did I break my back? It was work related, counsel has been retained, thats all I can say at this time. soundmasterg, thanks for the offer, but I think the 72 and my very late, 7-73, are a little different. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. It will be quite some time before I am able to do anything about it. I am leaning toward the recover prosess when it comes to that. Maybe find another 73 dash that is worse and save the original the way it is. Carl Beck, forgot to mention, thank you for the excelent explination of how it (could of) happened. I think you are very right about it. The dash had not seen 'direct' sunlight for over 26 years. I suppose the small amount of time it was in 'direct' sunlight was enough to heat it up and relax it a bit, then the very cold snap we had was enough to shrink it to the point of failure. It has been to about dozen shows so far and all of them in 'direct' sunlight, can't help it, but mostly tried to keep it covered. Most people thought I was 'way to paranoid' about it. :paranoid: geezer, keep an eye on that spot. IIRC there was a very small wrinkle, or just a spot that wasn't quite like the rest of the edge and that is where the crack started. It is less than 1 mm wide at the widest, for now. Time will tell if it gets any wider. Thanks all, Bonzi Lon

Enigma: What a great idea. I should of thought of that as I used the Kiwi black shoe polish all over the black bits in the car, except for the dash and glove box door. Wanted to see how it held up on the other parts first before I even thought about using it on the 'then' un-cracked dash & glovie door. Used it on the kick panels, console, the skirt covering the rockers, even the door and hatch gaskets. Really worked great, blackend right up, then polished it just like shoes. I think I will wait to use it when it warms up this spring and see if the crack becomes larger over time. Thanks for bringing it up. It will be like 'Carnuba Bondo'. Feeling a little better, but still devistated. Bonzi Lon

As to #2, a set of Ferrari horns are very distintive and not many cars have them, sans Ferrari. Or the trick kids (like me) used in the 70's around here was to wire in a set of 6 volt horns. Also a very distintive noise, but didn't last too long after the smoke cleared. It was loud enough to set off store alarms, our Jewelry store for example. Bonzi Lon

I'll be down to see you some day. Get it up and going by May and we will all go to Branson together. A fun time is had by all there. Bonzi Lon

Thank you all for your condolences, it is still hard to beleive. It did last a very long time though and I protected it constantly since i learned how rare they were. Only used soft damp cloth, covered with either a towel or cardboard cutout while out driving or at shows, always tried to shade it. I won't /can't do anything about it now or in the near future because of the broken back I received earlier this year. Someone else would have to do the removal then install, and all before Nashville, can't be done. Then the cost, that is another. I'll try to touch on the issues. Never used anything on it except a damp cloth. From when padded dashes first came out in the late 50's, Grandpa instilled in us that was all you needed because it was just dust, or SHOULD be. That is all I ever used on any of my cars. A dash cap is out of the question. I've seen them and it is a cost thing, and I understand that. The refurbished from $850 to $1200 is a better way to go, but still not original. They are only original once. The links are going to be very helpful, thanks. An original at say $2500? That is a little steep for me, at this time. Then they also could be lible to crack also. That is rather hard to take when I paid $2600 for the whole car in 77! :stupid: So I'm going to have to live with it. I'll let the judges at Nashville decide what kind of overall condition the car is in. It never has been judged to a set of standards before. Sounds like it could be an education. Is it worth keeping this way or thinking about a complete restoration. The refurbishment was paint, emblems, carpet, engine overhaul, carbs, headers, seats. Original includes door & hatch gaskets, bushings, splash pan, vinyl, wheel covers, speakerless door panels, complete under carrage, various braded hoses. Bonzi Lon

I'm just SICK!!! Went out today to show a friend my car. I backed it out of the garage, first time in about a month, when I got out I noticed a crack in my dash. At first I thought it was in the windshield, or my eyes were deceiving me, then looked closer and it IS in the dash. It has been crack free from new until today. I don't know what happened to make it crack. No one has been near it, nor was it cracked last time it was out. It has been colder in the garage over the 26 years it sat than in the past week. I can no longer brag about a crack free dash. What a bummer. I don't know if Hagerty would cover anything like this or not. Bonzi Lon

At least it is an L6 rather than a boat or airplane that some have tried to build in the basement only to realize it wouldn't fit through the door when finished. Have to tear half the house down to get it out. :tapemouth Bonzi Lon

Bought my 73 June 21, 1977. College car until Sept, 1980. Sat in the garage with newly rebuilt engine and a half a paint job for 26 more years, March of 2006. Was painted in Nov 2007 and put back together and on the road by May of 2008. Like getting a new old car again. Welcome back my old friend. Bonzi Lon

When Painter Ray did my car he told me the 'liquids' part of the paint job was going to be about $750, 'his cost'. Solvents, paints, tints, flakes, pearl, clear, etc... Fine with me. Make it blue again. Bonzi Lon

My car was named the in the first block of the test drive. The salesman had just had it out and said it was quick. (at 14 a Z had impressed me) Pulling out of the lot, the light had just turned green and no traffic, got it straight and took it to the floor, and it took off, it pulled hard, and sounded better! Hit second with a good sized chirp, then said the first word that came to mind, "BONZI", (sp) it HAD to have a Z in it. By the time I hit third, it was SOLD! Got personal plates in 1980 with "its" name, (neither he or she), that is on the front now. Bonzi Lon

Thanks Carl, everything is crystal clear. I'm counting the days till Nashville. Bonzi Lon

I took 'Registered' to mean Registered with the State as a driver or sitting in a garage paying taxes on it, either way the State knew you owned it. For your VIN and build date reasearch, this is an odd one. For such a low VIN, HLS30 00110, it has a build date of 12/69, rather late in the line. It came with engine #L24-2796, rather high number for the VIN sequence on the list. The best part, its the rare 908? blue exterior with a blue interior, now painted black. In your extensive lists could this be the first 'known' / 'lowest VIN' blue/blue 240Z? I looked at the Zhome list and counted the blue/blue cars, (they had to be listed as blue/blue to count) including mine there were 4 from VIN 110 to 4000, none before 110. You may have some on your private list. The block and head in it now is from a 260, It still retains its original intake, no drain carbs, air cleaner, exhaust manifold (no heat shield holes), grapefruit alt. However, I have engine #L24-4621 from a 1/70, just 1825 apart, 'period correct'. The engine has the correct patched oil pan, E31 head and 2400 valve cover. I was told it had the 6 counterweight crankshaft, but acording to another thread the engine number is a bit too high to have one. Bonzi Lon