Bonzi Lon

For ZDDP protection on my rebuilt engine, I am usuing a product called "Cam Shield". Bonzi Lon

You may have mis-typed the fireing order.^^^ The correct fireing order is: 1-5-3-6-2-4. There is a saying to remember it: 15 too young, 36 too old, 24 just right. Bonzi Lon

Due to circumstances beyond my control, fractured vertebre, I will be unable to attend the festivities as planed. I think my grand daughter is more upset than I am. Bonzi Lon

Jesse: This is what the original steel wheel and wheel cover lookd like.* Note: *On original, the chrome scollope you see would of been painted grey, the blue center should be a red reflector. Very early Z's had a "D" center. ($) Bonzi Lon

To prevent any arcing in that area I attached a piece rubber innertube to the under side of the metal gusset right above where the positive post sits. Bonzi Lon

2cc of John Deere hydrostat fluid, 20wt no detergent. Bonzi Lon

FWIW, the hood on #110 is like the green one. Bonzi Lon

FWIW, #110 has the filter alignment spring clips on the outside. Bonzi Lon

My flat top 73 had the orange air cleaner, 6-77. The dealership kept it and the carbs after the swap, 8-80. They also took my under hood lamp. :mad: Bonzi Lon

The non a/c 73 did not have a shroud except for the little finger saver on top, however the original radiator does have capture nuts welded in place to hold a shroud. Bonzi Lon

My older brother and I were discussing this just last week. I mentioned Kroil (which I have not used and he has never heard of), and PBBlaster. He said "Grampa made his own penatrating oil out of ATF and kerosene, or was it acetone?." He couldn't remember, but watched him make a batch when little. Kept it in the BLUE pump oil can. I did not know this. Worth a try. Grampa (1898-1970) self taught mechanic and machinist. So maybe old school is now new school, or something lost has been found again. :bulb: Bonzi Lon

Sorry Will, and others. I must keep them. They have been a fixture of the shop for about 30 years now, no complaints of wanting a new home. Besides, has not aged a bit. Bonzi Lon

The balls do just pop off. I used a pair of needle nose plyers and gently pushed/twisted the ball off of the socket. You will have to remove one ball to get the boot on, IIRC there is a stop nut on the interior side, so mark its position. A little lube on the boot helps with instalation, same with the ball & socket. Bonzi Lon

These were bought in 1980 for my 73, but still sit in the box to this day. They were bought from Jim Cook Racing for $95 plus shipping, and are as Will describes, including the 'cool keys' and that HOT 70's chick. Bonzi Lon

My console was rather grey and other black bits in the interior rather dull from 26 years of storage. Even after several good cleanings they just wern't 'black'. Not wanting to spray anything or use chemicals, there had to be something else. While at a dollar store I spotted a sale on black "Kiwi" shoe polish, 2fer1. Carnuba wax and pigment. It was worth a shot. I started with the rocker covers to see if it worked. Applied like you would to shoes. It really made them look like new. Did the original door and hatch seals, welt, seatbelt covers, console, fuse cover, stearing cover, horn pad, everything black except the glove box cover and uncracked dash. I'm pleased with the way it turned out but will see how long it lasts before I do the dash and glove box. I knew I should of taken photos before and after. :stupid: Bonzi Lon

I watched this series last year, but can't remember which network. It was a first class shop, and very well produced. Always the drama of a strict timeline. I really enjoyed the "Barry White screwdriver rust finding technique." Not many of our cars would pass that test, but a few would. Bonzi Lon

My 73 came with them and they fell apart in my hands when I took the buckets off. At the time (before CZCC) I knew I needed something there because of painted metal to painted metal to reduce chips. I made my own out of a tire inner tube. Made a paper templet, paper hole punch for the screws. They fit tight when finished, shows loose fit. Then the thread came up about not really needing them, but already had them made, so used them. Looks very much like it did before, black seal between parts, with careful trimming. Bonzi Lon

You do have a project. By the way, those wheel covers (hub caps) are worth some nice coin. Do a little search on "D style" wheel covers/hub caps for further information. Good Luck, keep us posted on the progress. What is your intended color? Bonzi Lon

I used the dupli-color "graphite", but it seemed too glossy so I covered it with a clear matt finnish. Tail finishers, wheel covers and grill got the same treatment. Very close to original, at least for me. Bonzi Lon

1996 Saturn SC2 coupe. Most reliable car I have ever owned. Purchased with 35K on odo in 1998, now has 109K and less than $750 in dealer maintience. I can perform the simple stuff. Bonzi Lon

The engine number will be on the passenger side of the block on the 2 flat pads between cylinder #5 & 6. The engine number that came with the car will be on the I.D. plate on the side of the passenger shock tower. The month and year the car was made will be on the driver's door jam. The true and actual VIN will be stamped above the brake booster on the firewall. I know what you mean by the PO "fixing" things. I had a 72 where the entire sound system was installed with dry wall screws, about a pound of them. Bonzi Lon

I'll muddy the waters some more. HLS30-00110 built 12/69 has engine #2796 on the shock tower plaque. Not in close sequence to others of this age. From what I have read that if a car had a problem of quality on the line it was removed and repaired to specs later. The plaque (with engine #) did not get added until everything was in good working order and was then passed as OK. Bonzi Lon

I've been reading Z car forums for 3 years now and every time this comes up the answer is always "an ounce or two of motor oil, do not overfill." (For stock applications not exotic setups) Bonzi Lon

I got mine a year ago this month, what a fun little car. I paid about 20% more than your trade, and I consider I got a good deal. Not many antique Japanese sports cars in this area. I agree with driving it before doing anything major. The stares and comments are great. The most common word I hear is "cute". I haven't noticed any stress cracks in the trunk area. The 2 volume "The Datsun Roadster Book" will be very valuable for info and part numbers, $88 and worth every penny. This Datsun is not a unibody, it sits on a very heavy frame so you can do a 'body off frame' restoration. The smile begins when you first lay eyes on it, once you drive it, forget about it. Bonzi Lon

I have always used water and a soft cloth on my uncracked dash. Storing it 28 years out of sunlight helped also. Bonzi Lon