Bonzi Lon

Bonzi (7-73) does NOT have and electric fuel pump, however has the pig-tails neatly wrapped to put one in. Bonzi Lon

Keith: I have one but it is still connected to the master vac. It is off a 72, rubber boot is in great shape, includes clevis, pin and cotter pin. Weighs about 5-6 lbs. PM or email me for details. Bonzi Lon

I was under the hood doing some measurements and laid a straight egde between the frame rails at the crankshaft pully face and to my surprise found the center of the crankshaft to be 1/2 inch above the top of the frame rails. Then I measured from each frame rail to the edge of the pully where the straight edge intersected. Passenger side was 9 7/8" the drivers side was 10 1/4". Clearly a full 3/8 inch to the passenger side. Is this within normal tolerances?

In my opinion, it looks like it just wasn't fast enough to miss the mouse trap or guilliotine. "Missed it by that much." Maxwell Smart Bonzi Lon

My very late 240, 7-73, has a mechanical fuel pump only, however, the wiring harness at the fuel sending unit has a single wire folded back and the plug end taped to the harness at the factory. This could of been for the electric fuel pump on the the 260s. Bonzi Lon

I have finally gotten some good photos of these date codes. Each one is about 1 inch in diameter not the 2 inch as stated before. Before they go back in I think I will mark and date them also. Enjoy. Bonzi Lon

Just sold for $7500.00. Someone got a deal, or maybe not. They will be the judge in time. Bonzi Lon

TomoHawk: Take it from a watchmaker-jeweler gold and silver solder will not stick to steel. Save your time and money on this idea. If you do have a hole or two, I would weld it then grind smooth, paint as you want. Now you have two good pans. Bonzi Lon

From the movie "Heathers" Dad to Daughter: Why do I smoke these stupid things? Daughter to Dad: Cause your an idiot, Dad. Dad to Daughter: Oh yea, Thats right.

knapper, go to this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21619 some of these products may be your only route. It was a simple prosess, and you might get a discount for so many tanks. Bonzi Lon

It has been six days since the lining of the tank. The product is hard enough that I can not put a thumb nail dent in it. It will be a while before fuel goes in so it will have a long cure time. I did get a mirror on a stick and looked at the screen and tube, all in order. I was concerned about the gap in the baffel so a friend brazed a quarter inch bit on a long rod and we put two holes in the very thin baffel. Used magnets on a stick for the shavings. Took longer to make than do, but I have no worries of 2 tanks, yes the sender is seperate from the tube on this 7-3-73 (stamped) tank. Bonzi Lon

The guy behind the counter and the bottle says the longer it air dries the harder it gets and can be used with any fuel (except aircraft) and any tank (except aircraft and fiberglass) One guy said he did his motorcycle tank 3 years ago and it is still rock hard under the fuel line. Just passing on what I was told. I will keep everyone posted. Bonzi Lon

Carl, you are the keeper of the numbers so I should of asked you before making that statement. The list I looked at had 2 higher numbers, but outside the USA, I did not see the two you mentioned, yet you know for sure. So I gladly retract my previous thread and will never mention it again. Bonzi Lon

Thank you for your offer cremmenga, but mine was not really that bad. I just figured it had to be done or be plagued with rust particles at the most embarasing moment. (car show, impressing the ladies) It has sat indoors for over a quarter century. I thought this was an inexpensive fix that any home do-it-your-selfer could accomplish and save the original part. Mine has a date code stamp on top that I'm pretty proud of. Now that a few days have passed it has cured hard and I shouldn't have to worry about rust going through the SU's. If the UPS man delivers anything, a box of cash would be nice. Even a small box.

I have a 73Z that has very good factory weatherstripping in it now. I looked and the corner is mitered (B piller) and a splice of 6 to 8 inches has been added, but hidden under the sill plate on each side. No other splices were found.

According to the IZCC Register, this car (left) is the highest numbered VIN in the USA on their list, 240Z only. HLS30 168500 7/73 I will gladly retract this statment when a higher # in the USA is found and listed. Bonzi Lon

My 73 has been sitting in the garage for the last 26 years with fuel in the tank. After reading on this site and others about fuel tank rust problems, I knew I had to know what shape mine was in before trying to get it running. I drained about a gallon of dark brown nasty smelling liquid that had bits of rust flakes in the bottom of the can. The tank came out and a peek inside showed me there was a ball of rust for a sending unit and the bottom was covered in a quarter to half an inch of varnish, laquer, shellac, goo, goop, gunk, or whatever you want to call it. The upper part of the tank is where the flake rust was, where the moisture condensed. The sending unit was removed and a new one ordered for $40, so much cheaper in the long run. The way I got the gunk out was I made a long scraper made out of tubing, bent in a hook at the end to go over the baffel and still reach the bottom. Put in some fuel and scrape, shake, rest, scrape, and empty. I did this process 3 or four times then off to the car wash. Rinsed out, there was still some gunk. Repeted the prosess at least 4 times. When this was done I had captured about 4 cups of solids from the tank! The bottom was clean but the sides and top were rusty. A friend told me he got tank liner for his bike tank at the local Harley-Davidson dealership. Off I went and got it, a product by the name of "KREEM", three part do-it-yourself fuel tank liner. Two kits for a tank this large was $82. I sealed ALL vent tubes with hoses and plugged the ends with rusty bolts, (to check progress) clamps were used if leaking. Sealing the sending unit and the filler neck was ingenious. I used the fuel flap and made 2 round patch gaskets just slightly larger than the sending unit O ring. Put the O ring back in place, then the 2 round pieces, then the locking nut. Sealed. The remainder of the flap was placed over the fill neck and hose clamped. A new flap has been ordered. The two bottles of acid went in with 5 gallons of hot water and sealed, leaving at least one hose unplugged for venting. The tank was turned often and the liquid was in for about 20 hours total. Directions do say about 24 hours for heavy rust. I saved the acid mixture for future rust projects. Removed all hoses and off to the car wash for a good rinse. Very nice, clean and rust free interior. The second bottle is a solvent to remove the water and prep the surface for the lining material. It is very flamable and has dangerous fumes. Hoses back in place, this was put in and the tank turned until all surfaces were coated and the remainder poured out. The 2 bottles of lining material went in and was sealed and turned for about 5 to 6 minutes and I had a peek inside. It was starting to gel and I removed all seals and hoses and turned it so it would no longer get near the pick-up tube. Compressed air was ran through each tube many times, notably the pick-up tube. Inside, the stuff had done its job, everything coated in a white plastic that was starting to set. Now that it is white in there I will be able to get a mirror and look at the pick up tube and screen. 24 hours later it is a hard slick coating that has covered the entire interior of a once rusty fuel tank. Overall, I am pleased at the results I got from this easy to use product, however, this should be done outdoors and no smoking or flames anywhere near. Safety first. For those of you that would like to try this product or get more information, their address is: KREEM PRODUCTS PO Box 399 Somis, CA 93066 (805) 386-4470. Like I said, I found mine at a Harley-Davidson dealership, but maybe any bike shop would have it. Bonzi Lon

They could be welded together in an artful manner, anchor a sheet of plexiglass on top and your would have a nice? coffee table. Or leave off the plexiglass and you would have a nice anchor.

I agree with my mad z using paint stripper with high pressure water for the paint and agree with webdog1 on the soda for the rust areas. Sand blasting at the wrong grit, wrong pressure, wrong distance and inexperienced operator will result in diaster on that thin of metal. Ask my parents about the lawn furniture I did for them years ago, my first blast job, and 100% mess.

You're absolutly right =Enigma=, it is a play of spelling on my nicname Bones. But then today's kids love to mis-spell everything, so I feel right up to date from a whim more than a quarter century ago.

Mine was dubbed BONZI the day of the test drive. That was the only word I could come up with for a car like this.

I've posted a few times, so I better introduce myself. My car's name is Bonzi and I am Lon. I really like the site. I have used it quite often and have learned so much more. Its great to have questions answered correctly about this special little car. You know what I mean if you've had one. I'm looking forward to getting some moral support while I try to put this thing back together after resting in the garage for the past 26 years waiting for a new coat of paint. The computer, your web site, and those great photos have gotten me excited about getting it on the road again. I will be keeping everyone posted.

Has any one else noticed these? I removed the steel evaporator tank from my 73 and noticed on the back side (up against the quarter panel) a 2 inch round white stamp on it. The stamp was divided into 3 parts. The top had a Japanese character, the center line has the number 3 then two spaces and then 6 26. The bottom line has another Japanese character. I found this interesting because my car was born 7-73, and I would like to think it was born on my 18th birthday of July 6th. I dropped the fuel tank and found another stamp on the very top of the tank. In order to view any of these stamps the tanks MUST be removed. On the fuel tank, the top line was the same character, the second line was 49, two spaces then 7 3, the bottom line had two Japanese characters. I guess my question is has anyone else noticed these and why are they the only parts on the car that have codes on them? Were these for legal reasons? (date made in case of failure?) Or were they for on time delivery and inspection codes in the factory. Nothing to make it run better, just something to make my brain ask why? Any other thoughts, comments or observations?

Another thought: These were calibrated at the factory on new springs, suspension, so they sat level, the bottom of the tank where the float sits is at an angle. The tank itself appears level. Any slight shift in levelness could affect the reading. If over the years the springs have sagged or different tire size front to rear, or just that squat they seem to have, or even if the tank has shifted (I doubt) or been dented there? Or, is something keeping the float from falling further than 1/4 full? Just pitching anything. I have just removed my tank to line the inside and the float unit is a ball of rust. New one has been ordered. The arm is rather long (the longer the travel the closer to tolerance you can get) and appears to be easily bent to calibrate. Or you can put a Post-it note on the guage, "Quarter tank will get me nowhere!"