Bonzi Lon

I agree with my mad z using paint stripper with high pressure water for the paint and agree with webdog1 on the soda for the rust areas. Sand blasting at the wrong grit, wrong pressure, wrong distance and inexperienced operator will result in diaster on that thin of metal. Ask my parents about the lawn furniture I did for them years ago, my first blast job, and 100% mess.

You're absolutly right =Enigma=, it is a play of spelling on my nicname Bones. But then today's kids love to mis-spell everything, so I feel right up to date from a whim more than a quarter century ago.

Mine was dubbed BONZI the day of the test drive. That was the only word I could come up with for a car like this.

I've posted a few times, so I better introduce myself. My car's name is Bonzi and I am Lon. I really like the site. I have used it quite often and have learned so much more. Its great to have questions answered correctly about this special little car. You know what I mean if you've had one. I'm looking forward to getting some moral support while I try to put this thing back together after resting in the garage for the past 26 years waiting for a new coat of paint. The computer, your web site, and those great photos have gotten me excited about getting it on the road again. I will be keeping everyone posted.

Has any one else noticed these? I removed the steel evaporator tank from my 73 and noticed on the back side (up against the quarter panel) a 2 inch round white stamp on it. The stamp was divided into 3 parts. The top had a Japanese character, the center line has the number 3 then two spaces and then 6 26. The bottom line has another Japanese character. I found this interesting because my car was born 7-73, and I would like to think it was born on my 18th birthday of July 6th. I dropped the fuel tank and found another stamp on the very top of the tank. In order to view any of these stamps the tanks MUST be removed. On the fuel tank, the top line was the same character, the second line was 49, two spaces then 7 3, the bottom line had two Japanese characters. I guess my question is has anyone else noticed these and why are they the only parts on the car that have codes on them? Were these for legal reasons? (date made in case of failure?) Or were they for on time delivery and inspection codes in the factory. Nothing to make it run better, just something to make my brain ask why? Any other thoughts, comments or observations?

Another thought: These were calibrated at the factory on new springs, suspension, so they sat level, the bottom of the tank where the float sits is at an angle. The tank itself appears level. Any slight shift in levelness could affect the reading. If over the years the springs have sagged or different tire size front to rear, or just that squat they seem to have, or even if the tank has shifted (I doubt) or been dented there? Or, is something keeping the float from falling further than 1/4 full? Just pitching anything. I have just removed my tank to line the inside and the float unit is a ball of rust. New one has been ordered. The arm is rather long (the longer the travel the closer to tolerance you can get) and appears to be easily bent to calibrate. Or you can put a Post-it note on the guage, "Quarter tank will get me nowhere!"

I'd go for it also. If you don't, someone else will. Parts that can be removed/replaced (dash, seats, radio cover, etc..) is easier in the long run, than one with a perfect interior and no floors. But then if it turns into a nightmare, there is alway the "parting out" option, and some of the parts I've seen sell on eabay, you could still come out ahead.

Numbers matching 1973 HLS30168500 7-73 Bought 6-22-77.

Just looked at my 73 4 speed. Here goes. The opening is not square but trapizoid 5 1/2" at one end and 4 1/2" the other. Under I found 7 metal slide clips about 1 1/2" long by 1/2" wide that slid over the leather and the 1/2" console lip. Can't supply photos here but could in email petiespoppa@aol.com Hope this helps

Using sand at the wrong size and too high of pressure will cause heat, warpage, and even burn thru. Ask my parents about the lawn furniture I blasted for them years ago. On the other hand, if your car is not able to rotate you will end up with a face full of chemicals. The choice for most car nutz is nut shells (walnut/pecan, etc.) they don't raise the heat so much. Another media I've heard of is baking soda. This will leave a film that will not allow rust to form untill washed off, and this MUST be done before any paint goes on. They use this at a much lower pressure and it seems to work for the guys I've talked with. Less heat and warpage. Hope this helps.

Greetings from Oz. This is my first question (post) of many to come. This deals with my (Barn Find) 73 240Z. (More on this later.) Is there really any great difference in front and rear brake hoses? The front appear to be about 2 inches longer, but other than that they seem to have the same ends, clamps, etc. I want it to be safe, but if fronts will fit the back with no real danger of failure, why not? I seem to see more front hoses available than the rear. Another brake related question. One of my books said if you remove the brake fluid reservoirs from the master cylinder you must replace them with new ones. Any truth to this? The rubber seals on the caps melted into the fluid over the past 26 years. I found a set of used ones, and then another set on a complete master cylinder, so have plenty to work with if this is not true. I would like to have it stop well before I get it running,.... but then, dents are easier to repair than rust! Bonzi Lon