Bonzi Lon

I agree with the 'fart method'. After sitting 26+ years and several attempts to get them bleed, the 'fart method' worked, rather messy, so be prepared. Bonzi Lon

Call Bruce and get the video first. Bonzi Lon

Here is one in Topeka, no idea who's it is, says it is a Cali car. http://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/1814535658.html Bonzi Lon

I always thank my car for the ride. Bonzi Lon

Thanks Chris, same one I have. Hopefully with my contacts more Parker advertising will be found. Bonzi Lon

Thats right, set up like the drawing. The 'bottom edge' has the welded in support. I just noticed the drawings are in SAE. :stupid: My measurments should of been also, sorry. The width measurements appear to be missing on the drawings, or I can't see them . The overall width is 3", except for the ears with 3 holes, it is 3 1/2" wide, 1" tall. Bonzi Lon

Mine is from the recent group buy. The top hole is 11mmX17mm oval, 67mm from the right edge (drawing) to center, up 50mm from the bottom edge to center. The 3 side holes are also 11X17mm, center is 12.5mm from the bottom, centers from left edge are 13mm, 44.5mm, 76mm. Hope this helps. Bonzi Lon

It is my understanding that the 73 came with the rear sway bar mountings, but no sway bar. The sway bars were installed on the 74 260's though. Bonzi Lon

A little cleaner method of putting oil in: Remove spare tire well plug above diff, snake a 2 ft section of garden hose through the hole and down into the diff fill hole. Proper amount can be put in without any drips on the floor. This method can be used on the tranny also but the shift boot must be removed. Bonzi Lon

I also have been experiencing this, but only after I changed out carbs, balance tube and linkages. I was able to get a little more slack by bending the rod like I had seen on another Z car years ago. The carb spacers are only 5mm thick because the N36 manifolds have 30mm studs. Other spacers are 15mm and 40mm on the studs. So far it is working much better than before, like 90% better, still could use some tweeking on the bell crank. Bonzi Lon

Glue a piece of rubber innertube to the underside of the chassis where the positive terminal would touch. Worked for me. Bonzi Lon

I replaced my 73 balance tube with an early polished shaved euro one. The small water line that runs from the thermostat to the balance tube, through it and to the line behind the block was found to be plugged with radiator mud, all the way through. So I wonder if the manifold tube is plugged also. Will find out this winter when I replace or ceramic coat the header and polish the N36 intakes, without cooling lines between them, among other improvements. Bonzi Lon

The hole is empty. There is the same protution on the other side of the carb, that is where the choke cable clamp is held on. Bonzi Lon

I cut a peice of rubber innertube and used weatherstrip glue to attach it to the underside of that metal brace. Cheap and easy insurance. Bonzi Lon

I did the meat thermometer trick and found out I must have a 165* thermostat. When the guage reached where it normaly is at E, the thermometer was 165. The center of the guage, just to the right of M, would be 185*, just like Walter's photos. Bonzi Lon

I didn't trim the lid. It was the ear with a hole sticking out above the lid. It is about 7mm long now, started about 12mm. I sold a set of 3 screw carbs and never thought to look to see if that ear was on them. :stupid: Bonzi Lon

My experience, New carbs (1980) 4 screw front, 3 screw rear, 96 miles on them then the car parked 26 years. Looked in front bowl, after gasket fell apart in multiple pieces, full of varnish. Tried getting rear lid off for 1/2 hour until it was decided surgery was needed. Trimmed enough to get the lid off, full of varnish and gasket parts. Never been in a carb before 2006. Got the video, watched it twice, took both carbs apart, cleaned, reassembled and back on in under 3 hours. Fired right up, minor adjustments like the video showed. Found out the rear 3 screw was best at 2 1/4 turns down, front was 2 1/2 for plug color to match. One other difference in the two styles is the choke cable attachment. The 4 screw uses a 'P' clamp with 2 clamping screws. The 3 screw carb has a single screw clamp attachment and has a steel cable stop swedged to the end of the choke cable. Three weeks ago I changed out the above set for a set of rebuilt polished 4 screw carbs with cad plate attachments. Added a polished euro balcance tube and a polished valve cover. They were synced and set in less than 20 minutes. Light brown plugs. My advise is get the video and either sync tool, these carbs are too easy, just misunderstood. I remember seeing a motion emoticon (on here?) showing a SU carb working, at idle small amount of fuel flowing, choked the nozzle went down and more fuel flowed, at wot the butterfly opened, suction piston went up more fuel flowed. Anyone remember it or have it avaliable? Bonzi Lon

Might try pulling the drain plug, if these trans had a magnetic plug like my 73, anything iron / ferris will stick. Won't detect any brass but if it has a tooth on it you may want to pass on that one. Bonzi Lon

Painter Ray got this about 2 years ago, still going strong. Bonzi Lon

I've only heard good words about this company. Mine will be done there this winter. Bonzi Lon

I used the word 'fragile' as a watchmaker with lots of experience with springs. If not made or tempered properly they can and will fail. Rust also has a huge effect on steel springs making them weaker as time goes on, until failure. So, thinking out loud, maybe they wern't needed (early VIN) as the fuel door had a latch, or sub-standard springs were installed and failed right off the bat, and fell out, the 'welded plate' added to help reduce the loss, better springs, first 2 coils then 3 coils were used and the knob discontinued. Makes you wonder. Bonzi Lon

I find the crash photo very interesting that it appears the car is missing lots of parts. No emblem on the fender, front bumper ?, windows down, seats ?, rear quarter window appears missing, no door handle or lock, no gas door lock, missing rear bumper, and the rear hatch glass appears missing. I understand the quarter vents covered by crash markers. Would some of these parts installed help the crash worthyness? Sad to see it in that condition. Bonzi Lon

I don't care for a bra either, but will find one before the trip to Branson and Nashville. Bug juice is hard to remove once dried, a screen will go in front of the radiator also. Both will be removed before judging. Bonzi Lon

Yep, #110 also has those shapely legs. Bonzi Lon

Sure, all of mine are original except the hatch gaskets. Really wanted to use them but the fumes were making me very sick, several times. Bonzi Lon