Bonzi Lon

RB "replaced the fuel pump" I suggest removing the valve cover, spin the engine over a revolution or two and see how far, if any, the fuel pump arm is moving. If the arm is not making proper contact with the eccentric, it won't pump fuel. Bonzi Lon

When I purchased #110 in August the PO had put a key in the ignition and one in the hatch lock so they 'wouldn't get lost', and handed me one that he had found in the house. When I was going through the glove box last week I ran across the left foot rest pad. It didn't feel quite right so I turned it over and there was another key was hiding in the back. Just barely fit. Bonzi Lon

My spash pan is on the garage wall looking "pretty in primer". (sorry, Arne) What would be the correct color to paint it? I somewhat remember a silver. Five bolts broke off taking it off so need to get them removed before re-instaltion. It takes 9 bolts on my 73, if there is any difference for another year. Bonzi Lon

One of the very first threads I ever read about a Z-car was about this very subject. I knew I never wanted it to happen to me so this is what I did. :bulb: I got a peice of steel cable (picture frame wire) about 3 foot long and two split shot fishing sinkers. Took the hood latch off its mount and ran a loop of cable through the pulling lever and secured it with the split shot sinkers. Then ran the cable across the firewall, over the brake booster valve and the wire loom holder (bendable metal tab) then at a right angle straight down to the bendable metal tab that holds the spedo cable and wrapped the excess around it. If my hood release cable ever breaks I just find the end of the spare cable at the spedo cable holder and pull. It pays for itself when used just once. The only visible part of it is where the cable goes down the firewall. Nothing shows where the latch and mount are. This fix was less than $1.50 and about 15 minutes to install. No lift or long armed 'monkey boy' to get the hood open now. Bonzi Lon

No idea on the resistance thing, I have a hard time with electrical, but thought these photos could be helpful. The first photo shows the float arm in the full position, this is where the wire wrapings are at the narrowest, approx 6mm. The other photo is when the float arm is in the empty position, wire wrapings at the widest, approx 14mm. This float travels a full 10 inches, the contact arm in the unit travels about 1 1/4 inches, full to empty, and is from a 73. Bonzi Lon

According to your description you did install it correctly. I got my old one out and photographed it in the position it needs to be in. (Kneeling at passenger rear tire removed) When mine was removed after sitting 26 years I knew a new one was going back in, just look at the rust and build up. There are a series of wires in the center that the arm is attached to that measure resistance for the guage to function. Corrosion could be giving mis-readings. Just a thought. What did yours look like when it was out? (getting tank cleaned) Any cleaning before reinstall? Got my new one at Courtsey Nissan, under $40, and has worked perfect from day one. Bonzi Lon

Thank you for the confirmation. Close enough for David and I to attend. Now less than a year to get my car as good as I can. Scrub and polish. Bonzi Lon

When I removed mine I didn't mark them as there was only one way they would match back up, as in the length of each was different. Just a bear getting to all of the clamps and using the offset screwdriver which is a must. Removing the seats is a great help. Bonzi Lon

Oh golly, where do I begin? Lets start with the "bat cave", the little 12X38 foot addition Grandpa built for his Airstreams. It houses the 68 Roadster, 9 tons of red rock (indiginous to this area and can not get wet without falling apart) quarried in 1890 and used for foundation stone. Someday it will be used in an indoor fireplace. An 8 horse 120 gallon air compressor, some metal shelving and garden tools, weed eater and chain saw, a non working big screen, (big brother's), and a bathroom. The main part of the garage (26X38) has in it now my 73Z, and #110, a John Deere 111H, 3-3ft by 8 ft work tables, 3 work benches, a huge amount of garage sale stuff that needs to go somewhere, all kinds of spare Z parts including a driver's fender, 2 doors a hood and a hatch, a 4 speed tranny with drive shaft, a spare head with valve cover, chrome headers, a spook, 4 totes full of small Z stuff, more metal shelving racks, a huge assortment of tools, hand and garden, and other things I haven't seen in years. If all is placed just right I can get the 96 Saturn SC2 in there in case of hail. In the yard I have a pear tree without a partrige. Bonzi Lon

Carl: Thank you for the number. Some are obsessed with the very early ones which are as clear as the number on the firewall. Some are obsessed with the last ones, like myself, and that seems a little bit more cloudy. Some day I hope our paths, and cars, cross as it will be a fun and educational meeting. Bonzi Lon

Judging from the VIN it appears to be one of the "last" in the 240 production run, within a thousand or so. Check out Carl Beck's site for the list of numbers registered. Bonzi Lon

My first Datsun is still my first Datsun. The first photo was taken in 1979, the only one I have found. The car behind is my brother's "55 Nomad", white over "Tweety Bird" yellow laquer with lots of clear. On the right is my "68 Harley Sprotster", (piglet) that I nearly lost my left leg on. Second photo (my first avitar) is how it looked after spending 26 years in storage. Two years later, its much improved. In April of 08 I aquired this very nice "68 Datsun 1600 Roadster". Then in late August I ran across this "70 HLS30-00110", manufactured 12-69. The madness has bugun. Bonzi Lon

Let me see if I can clear this up a little bit. Robert is the original owner (1970-1976), Gregg is the second owner (1976-2008), I am the third owner, 8-2008. Something happened to the original engine in early 1976, Gregg nor I know what. Robert purchased a block and head in 1976 from a wrecked 1974 260Z (paperwork) that was claimed to have about 20K miles, and transplanted it into the car, but only after Robert had everything painted black, (paperwork), all of this was done in early 1976. Gregg purchased the car in late 1976 and drove it for about 2 years. In 1978 Gregg then put it in his garage to do rust repair but never got around to it and it just sat there untill Gregg advertised it for sale in August of 2008, when I made the purchase. It had collected dust for 30 years, never driven. The transplanted 260Z engine was not a selling point, but Gregg wanted me to know that it was NOT the original engine, which I did understand. I hope this makes it a little clearer. Bonzi Lon

My quote was in reference to post #37 and #40. Bonzi Lon

grantif: Maybe I should of said "a recently wrecked 260Z in 76." Bonzi Lon

I find this an interesting thread also as I now own HLS30-00110, one of the first ones made, and HLS30-168500 (7-73) "the best model", one of the last ones made. The best of both worlds. Bonzi Lon

BRE-240Z: It should go back to the original blue. Look at the bottom of my siginature. I thought all of the interior had been sprayed with black paint to "freshen up" the look, but was very surprised when I took a very close look between the headliner and upper door vinyl and saw there was blue hiding. Blue and blue would be so nice, and somewhat rare from my reading so far. 26th-Z: That must be a factory driving light switch as it has the symbol of a lighted lamp and is a 3 way switch, down, center and up, however no driving lights on the car. The gas door knob is chrome metal and closes (locked) in the horozontal position. Must of been opened (up) in the photos. I was told the engine (block and head) were from a recently wrecked (1976) 260Z that had about 20K miles on it. HS30-H: I need ALL the cheering I can get no matter how far away it is. Bonzi Lon

Bump: I'm surprised there is only one comment on this find, so far. Don't worry, no one will hurt my feelings on what they say about this car, especialy since the threads about the early VIN cars and the prices thay "may" command. I figured the "more knowledgable" members would have something to say about it. Bonzi Lon

My clock has always worked, even ater sitting for 26 years. I guess it knows I'm a watchmaker/clockmaker and knows the consiquences of non performance. Bonzi Lon

Here are some more photos of the frame rails, floor pans and engine. Bonzi Lon

Got this home the other night and just got around to washing off 30 some years of dust and try to get some photos for everyone. All of the tags do say it IS HLS30-00110 with a build date of 12-69. The engine now is L26-56324, but originaly had L24-2796. Carbs are round top 4 screw and the balance tube is before emissions. Paperwork says he bought the block and head but swapped over all the other stuff. Hasn't ran in years and may need some electrical work checked over before trying to crank. Number 1 spark plug wire is not in the right position on the dizzy. Interior has been sprayed black, originaly blue. I can see blue on the headliner when I pulled it back to see for sure. Carpet is on the tranny tunnel and foot wells, no mats, rear deck carpet appears to be home made as the welting on the edges is a type of tape sewn on and there is a seam in front of the shock towers. Dash has 2 large and one small crack. Seats are not original as there is no little vents at the bottom of the backs. Seat brackets are solid. No shoulder belts. Very bottom of heater surround has been cut off to make way for the vintage AM-FM 8 track. Body has some issues as you can see the holes and wheel lips have been puttyed and is now bubbling through. Frame rails are in good shape, some bubbles at the bottom of front shock towers and the sheet metal above the frame rails. Floor pans are starting to rust but not too bad. Passenger side must of been forced up at one time. Hood has a good size dent on the front and some putty? or just some very bad paint as it has lots of cracks. Both bumpers have been tweeked a little, but repairable. All light in good condition, rear tail light trim is in glove compartment. The passenger rear corner by the tail light has a dent that didn't come out in the photos. All of the emblems are missing, No defroster lines on the back glass. Spare tire well is in very good shape and yes, that is a Bridgstone Super Speed Radial-20, 175SR-14 spare, with good tread on an original steelie. Have fun looking and feel free to ask questions. I still don't have any idea what I'm going to do with it as I have been asked if I would sell it many times before I even got it home or had photos of it to show. I have more photos of frame rails, floor pans and other places if needed. Bonzi Lon

1 Bravo 6: On my very late 240, roll glass down and slip on, must be tight to stay in place. Note: Clean roller very good before instalation so it won't leave a mark on the window. Experience showed me this. Bonzi Lon

hls30.com: Not many IF any British cars in this town. Out of the two car shows I've been to in this town I was the ONLY import and was well received, especialy by the bicycle crowd, boys and girls 16 and under. I watched the kids with their parents like 3 muscle cars down the line and then when the kids spotted mine they left their parents and made a bee-line straight for my car, as they had never seen any thing like it before. The looks alone attracted them like a magnet, but the 160mph spedometer really impressed them. They now know my car as I drive it around town and always get the wave and "cool car Mr., lay a scratch". Here are two Crosley's that were there just newly aquired by a friend of mine. Bonzi Lon

Speaking of variety, this is what I had to compete with at our local Antique Car, Truck and Tractor show. Lost out to a 48 Allis Chalmers. Who'd a thunk it? Bonzi Lon

Mike260z: pm sent. Bonzi Lon