Fred Sigarto

Last Friday morning I was coming out of a parking lot and saw a nice yellow 240Z heading north on Broadview rd. Broadview Hts. OH. He stopped at the lite and I pulled up behind him in my 72 Z. I honked and waved to get his attention, the lite changed he took off, I followed for a while. I guess he didn't want to stop, so I turned around and headed home.

Go for it Kelly, I'm handicapped with CMT, back in 2000 it took me 7 hrs to put my seats in after getting it repaired. Had to tape the washer, lock washer & nut together to get them started on the studs.

When I bought my 1st Z back in 72, with the $1000 down & 6 to 9 month waiting list, you were happy with what you got. Purchased mine from Stang Motors, they had 3, 1 auto, 1 4sp w/air, and one white 4 sp. I took the white Z. Since I was a Vet, only put down $100, and waited a week.

Although I do like black paint, when I bought my first Z back in 72, was ticked because black was not an original color.

My Son owns a Shiro, something like 1002 made?

It's appreciated

Finished putting everything back together, fired her up, backed out of the garage and washed all the dust off from sittihg for the last month.

Which car was yours?

It's done and..........it starts. Didn't use the relay and those extra wires. I made sure every connection was clean, again. The only one that I was concerned with was the bayonet connector on the solenoid. I had tried cleaning it with an emery board. I went to Radio Shack to get some electrical contact cleaner, had it sprayed, connected everything back up and it fired right up. Had a difficult time attaching the 2 tiny screws back into the cylinder. got that done, and the key wouldn't turn. Took it back apart again and realized I didn't have it in the off position when putting back together. This time I took a piece of Duct Tape about 4'' long, tore it in half and taped the connector to the cylinder. Got one screw in and quit for the evening. I put the other one in this morning. ....... Thanks to all who responded to my post, really appreciate the help and suggestions. Fred

I took some, Wife did too, never posted before, is there anywhere on a "how to" page?

Wife & I enjoyed it too, a lot of walking. Talked with a member from White Rose Z Club whom we haven't seen for over 25 yrs. he now owns a 300ZX. Took some pics. too.

I went to AutoZone and picked up that 4 pronged relay with the connections marked 85. 86, 87, & 30/51 for $11. I can't remember where I saw it and maybe read it wrong but there was the whole Ford solenoid that you swap in place of the Nissan one, more or less a direct substitute. Not noticeable. Purchased at a Ford Dealership, if so for what type and year car?

I removed the ignition switch like AZ-240z suggested. What a pain. I am handicapped with CMT so it took me awhile. Got it separated and turned the switch with a screwdriver all the way to the right and heard the solenoid click and then the electric fuel pump humming and the click-click-click of the starter motor. I had cleaned the connections prior to doing this and measured 12.54 volts at the starter. I had the Wife check the voltage while I turned the the switch and the voltage dropped slowing down to 12.45 volts and that was holding the switch for about 3-5 seconds. What next? I think I did check out the new starter before I put it in and it worked.

Couldn't work on the car over the weekend. Went to Indianapolis For my Nephew's wedding. He is an Assistant crew chief on Shawn Langdon Al-Anabi Top fuel Team. He started with Tony Schumacher 12 years ago. then switched. I read in another post about a Ford part that would work. Does anyone have the exact name or part # so I could stop at the Ford Dealership and pick it up. I did take off the cover around the steering column so I'll mess with that. ......thanks guys

I'll be going, haven't gone in years. Won't be bring the Z, still won't start. taking the ignition switch off today.

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll try to do them today.

click comes from the relay on lower passenger side panel, by the vent pull..... when the key is turned to accessories.

I've been having problems with my 72 240Z. It started this past winter months, Came back home from Florida mid Feb.removed the coil wire and cranked it to circulate the oil, hooked it coil wire up, and it started. A month later, no start, dead battery. Recently I replaced the battery, and put in a new starter which I had for my other Z (10/69 FairladyZL). I installed a new voltage regulator from Motorsports Auto. It started right up. Drove it around, everything was fine, gauges working, battery charging. A week later, I went to start her up, heard the click of the relay, and nothing, except the noise of the electric fuel pump, the amp gauge was negative and the Tach was bouncing up to 2000 rpms. Checked the battery 12.53 volts, checked the battery on the Wifes 09 Altima Coupe, same voltage. Voltage regulators bad? both are new, fusible link?

Guess I've been lucky. Installed Nissan Comp. 1-5/8'' headers down to 2 2-1/2" to a 3'' and out to a 3'' Borla exhaust back in 94, on my 218 hp. Rebello and haven't been stopped yet.

I tend to coast a lot too. Driving around the city, I usually shift from 1st to 2nd to 4th, if coming to a light I put it in neutral and coast. Coming home after breakfast I can shift it into neutral and coast for a mile to the next light going down a hill.

Yes they were.....late 60's too

I believe there's a place on Rt. 97 where I exit I-71 south.

Did 2 or 3 Bobby Rahal TrackTime Driving Schools there in my Z in the early 90's, we had to do the "kink'' before the keyhole

I've used shock oil for RC cars, found at local Hobby Shops, comes in different types, worked well.

I was a Pit Marshall at the Longest Day of Nelsons Ledges in the 90's. I was told that the "Spirit of DC" car that won used Carbotech pads & shoes. SCCA President and driver said they never changed brakes.