Glen

Thankyou all who gave advise. Have straightened the needle and replaced oil in SU's with 3 in 1 sewing machine oil, a few tweeks with the mixture and idle and away we go, car is running a treat. Thanks again guys. Glen

Sure that the allen screws have been a later addition as they are very new looking, stainless steel items. I assume the older screws were just worn or had been deformed.

SU's have 4 allen screws holding down the domed outer sleeve. I believe they are Hitachi. Please explain the nozzle, is this the sleeve that the needle slides through? How can I check my vacuum is correct at low rpm? Can I straighten the needle with gentle heat and rolling it between two pieces of flat bar?

Pulled rear SU down today and found that needle was slightly off centre when rolled along bench. This is probably part of my problem, Can someone tell me where I can get a set of N-27 needles in Australia. Called SU Midel but they only do English SU's. Glen.

I pulled the front carbie this afternoon. Before this I removed the air filter and lifted both cylinder and let them drop and they seemed to both drop at about the same rate. The oil in the top of the carbies is red and thin, sort of like transmission fluid, didn't know how to check the level. Top came off su easily and was very clean inside, spring looked ok. Puleed needle out and it has the number 27 on it, neddle was straight and free from any score marks. As a side note the needle shoulder was sitting flush against the SU cylinder before I took it out but when I reinstalled it the needle could actually be pushed up a few millimetres inside the cylinder before it bottomed out. Anyone know the correct position for the needle. Only markings on the SU's I could find was a casting imprint of either IS0 or 150. SU's are round top. any suggestions as to whether I should change needles or what oil I should use as I will have to put oil back into the front SU, how do you check the oil level. Any advise would be appreciated.

Hi Bruce Badly is that, particularly when cold, the car coughs and splutters when idling and when I accelerate the motor fails to take off (like it is suddenly starved or flooded with fuel?), I need to be on and off the accelerator a bit until i find a "sweet spot" and the car finally gets over 2000 rpm, then it accelerates away reasonably well. The car is running a bit rich at the moment. The car has no trouble starting with a bit of choke when cold it will sit there and splutter away for as long as I want it to. Hope you can shed some light on my delema. Glen

Hi Guys hope you can help me out. I have a 2.8 Litre motor with 1.3/4" SU's and the car runs really badly at low revs 700 to 2,000. Once the car gets up in the revs, say up to 5,000 it seams to run quite well. When the car gets warm some of this low rev problems goes away. The car has a lumpy cam in it and I dont know if the problem is due to the cam or the SU's, but have a feeling its a fuel problem. I live in Australia, so can anyone tell me a place to get SU rebuild kits or are other nissan models such as the 240k, 280C good places to look for another set of SU's.