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I got a piece of it... I found a floating ground wire in the dash.... I hooked it up... Flashers started working..... I didn't get a good look at the Hazard switch... I'll steal the wifes mirror to check out the hazard wiring tommorrow. Brake lights and turn signals dead. Fuses good (still) I did a good examination of the steering column.... All the connections look good... Jay Not jus a Z - ZDisease

Religion come to play here... If any piece of the Brake system gets open.... I bleed all four every time.... I only bleed the master if it gets empty for some reason. Jay Not just a Z - ZDisease

The switch on the pedal tests fine. Continuity between the brake switch and the turn signal block is good. State of build: Tail lights, marker lights, installed and working - Headlights and front turn signals are not installed yet... - Brake Light, Turn signal, and hazards don't work Could a dead flasher cause no brake lights ? Jay Not justa Z - Zdisease

Stet....

I think my logic explains the reason for right rear first...... I have a rule that says bleed the cylinder that is farthest away from the Master Cyclinder first, sesond farthest second....On 240Z's the rear brakes go into a junction block near the passenger side rear tire... Hence... Driver side rear is the longest.... Driver side front is the shortest run... Works for me..... Jay Not justa Z - Zdisease

Similar thread ... Different issue 1972 240Z Running lights work, Dash lights work.... Brake lights don't work...... Fuses tested for continuity fine.... I am thinking I'll test the brake light switch on the brake pedal next.... Jay Not just a Z - ZDisease

What do you use for shims ? I am restoring a 1972 240Z. The hatch is too high where it meets the roof on the driver side. Thanks, zDisease

When my 240Z got painted the headlight cowls were off the car. During the painting process the cowl bolts got a good dose of paint. What is the best method for cleaning up the threads ? Thanks, Jay

If you get another tank and get it coated..... Make sure both gas lines work at the end.... I had my tank cleaned and re-coated but the gas return line got clogged..... This drove me nuts fer a good spell.... Jay 72 240Z

Use the Search tool on the top of this page. I Searched for 240Z Engine Pictures and found the attached photo....

Style 24, 8ft., A=1/2", B=15/32", C=3/16" to 7/32", D=15/32" All Rubber Window Channel JC Whitney no longer has the part number mentioned above. The do have a product listed above. Is this the right product for my 1972 240Z ? Thanks, Jay

Think Mig welder....

Man what a shame....I hope the Cobra owner didn't get a ticket for not having his car under control........ Jay

Maybe I answered my own question. I found some adjusters at Summit Racing.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-42122/ Jay Not just a Z - zdisease

S30 Headlight buckets have a two pice headlight adjuster: 1. Plastic Nut block 2. Adkusting screw I need to replace my adjusters due to rust and brittle plastic. Does anybody have a source for replacement parts ? Thanks, Jay Not just a Z - zdisease

I've been discovering that having a spare 240Z parts car in pretty intact condition is beyond value. Jay Not just a Z - Z Disease

I went down to the garage to test this idea..... Just for grins I tried to start without hot wire and... Damm she starts.... I did this several times...... Can the Ballast Resistor idea be aggravated by bad contacts ? Happy but mystified, Jay Not just a Z - zdisease

One step closer to resolution. 1. I ran a wire from the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the coil. 2. Ignition on. Car starts and runs fine.... Just can't turn off with hot wire installed. 3. Disconnect of hot wire kills engine Ignition Switch issue ? Jay Not just a Z - zdisease

1972 L24 Issue My car seems to die right after I let go of the ignition key. It's like there is no spark after the ignition is not turning the starter. Battery has been charged. Yesterday I had a jump to get it started... Loaded it onto trailer When I got home I have the current issue... The car really seems to be trying to start Thanks, Jay Not Just a Z - zdisease

After years of trying to get to the point of no rust and straight body work....... 1972 240Z The paint guys are pricey but they have a booth so the environment can be controlled..... I gotta love it so..... I hear it's painted... The parts needed to get painted over the weekend.... I guess the upside to delay is the fact that I had time to replace the electric brakes in the car hauler trailer.... I just ordered carpet and winshiedl post and door jam covering from Les Cannaday of http://classicdatsun.com/ Jay - zdisease - Not just a Z

I should have the car home from paint inside a week. I'll do a check for dead shorts. I did notice that the accessory relay got hot when the battery was being charged. The car was healthy in March of this year when I drove it sans windshield on a blustery march day 10 miles to the body shop. Froze my face off..... Thanks, Jay Not just a Z - zdiseae

Could a fusible link describe the following ? 1972 240Z has been in the body shop for the last few months.... Body work done Go to start the car and nothing... no dash lights, no starter Charged the battery (battery is less than a year old)... Car started fine, Ran fine Battery dead again the next morning.... Charge a bit.... Start Car... Load onto trailer Car is dead again at the paint shop Jump starts car fine.... Ameter reads charing when the car is running Not just a Z - zdisease