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I tested all the plugs one at a time by removing the plug, putting it back into the plug wire and short it out directly to the strut insulator bolts.... All the plugs have about the same spark.... All the plugs were wet looking also. Next I hooked the timing light up to number 1,, high lighted the timing marks on the crank When we turned it over the timing marks were no where to be seen..... I had the valve cover off and found top dead center on the #1 Timing marks lined up... I noted where the rotor was pointing (pointed up toward number one cylinder or about 12 oclock). I started started replacing the wires according to the timing order 1,5,3,6,2,4 counter clock wise around the distributer cap. Still no timing mark I did replace the oil pump on this motor but never messed with the distributer. There is very little play in the distributer shaft..... All clues greatly appreciated.... Not just a Z - zdisease

I will test tonight..... Plan 1: remove each plug and ground against the strut insulator bolts while son turns over engine confirm good spark. Plan 2: Hook the timing light to #1 cylinder and check timing for 7 degrees BTDC I've already tested starter fluid straight into the carbs.... no change As always... Thanks for the clues Not just a Z - zdisease

I did the Coil test tonight..... I grounded the coil wire to the Strut tower and got a very health spark. I used a plastic handled screw driver and still got zapped a bit... Is the next test t check if the spark plugs are firing ? Thanks for the advice, zdisease

The Coil age is unknown...... Does it make sense to just replace it... Thanks, zdisease

I ment to say With ignition "On" I see very little spark at the points.

I am currently trying to get my 72 240Z running... It tries but won't keep running.... Plugs are wet looking...... With the ignition "Nn" I see very little spark at the points... I get little sparks when I short the points using a screw driver..... I tried hot wiring the car to the positive side of the coil without success. I am thinking I need paints and a condenser at least. All help is greatly appreciated zdisease

I am also trying to get my 1972 240Z running. I believe I have the wires right for timing order.... Good spark at the points.... Car tries to start but won't keep running. Fuel is getting to carbs.... I wanted to check the carb bowls but I don't know how to get them off.... I have round top SU's that have a hunk of the casting that prevents easy removal of the top of the float bowl. zdisease

Beautufull carbs.... How do you get them so clean ? Just gotta love the shotgun shell plug ! zdisease

I use the CD from this site a lot in the quest to correctly identify parts I need. www.blackdragonauto.com does catalogs with very similar exploded parts diagrams. zdisease

http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogue/product.php/10/12/58 Bleed-O-Matic One man Tool I used this tool to bleed the clutch slave on my 72 240 with great success. Make sure the capture bottle is higher than the valve being bleed. Definite case of old dog new tricks. zdisease

:sick: ever seen a spindle pin like this ? Famous AutoBody Denver Colorado.... Beware

I am replacing the struts in my 240Z I got some strut boots for a 280Z that I am lookinh to use on the 240. I also obtained some bump stops. Is the idea of using the bump stop + the 280Z bump stop over-kill ? See attached jpeg... zdisease, Jay

http://forums.hybridz.org/ This is the hyper link to the Hybid Z site..... Lots o V8 clues

I need to replace the gas lines on my 72 240Z. Can anybody tell me what to buy for: Gas Supply: Gas Return: Fuel Guide Valve Line: Thanks, zdisease

About a week ago I was enjoying a glass of wine on the deck after dinner and a moose walked by the deck not 10 feet away...... amazing The moose crossed the creek and waded into the lake where it started eating weeds off the lake bottom. Elk, Deer, Bear, racoons, porcupine, raptors. .... now moose I saw some scat a couple of months ago that seems strange... Looked it up on the internet ... moose... Saved a digital picture for my wife's computer background.... zdisease

I need to replace the gas lines on my 72 240Z. Can anybody tell me what to buy for: Gas Supply: Gas Return: Fuel Guide Valve Line; Thanks, zdisease

My set of eibach springs for my 1972 240Z have larger spring wire diameter for the front. Another way to look at it... the front springs are made out of fatter wire. zdisease

I used a micro switch salvaged from a zone control valve used on the heating system of my house.

I really apprciate this thread. I need to replace the Spindle Pins in the rear on my 240Z. The clowns that worked on my car replaced the spindle pin with a long bolt. By pure luck these same clowns didn't get the car running enought to drive it. At this point I am hoping the Lower Transverse Links are not trashed. I plan on dropping both shocks on the rear to replace the Spndle pin + put some grease on the urathan bushings (More clown stories) zdisease

I had some clowns install urathan bushings in my 240Z... Now it's sqeek city... I am thinking all of the bushing were installed with no grease... I imagine I will be be disassembling and doing the bushing over again... zdisease

Chuckle.... anybody ever "used" a tiller like that .... Then discovered that god blessed the designer of Troy Built Tillers...... ? Some tools are made to work.... some not so

Did you check the fuel rail idea ? I had a clogged return line on my 240 that acted like this.... Jay zdisease

Does the insulation on the fuel rail help avoid dreaded vapor lock ? Zdisease After two years I am close to actually thinks about the 240 running

And care must be made to use the correct lubricant for the occasion. In my glass shop past we used waterless hand soap to lubricate the rubber. You don't want to hurt the girl with abrasive hand cleaner... But I'm sure you know that ..... zdisease

Classic 240Z's have a "Less is More" appeal to me. Less whale tails and wild paint, more handling components a subtle mods is the way to go.... IMHO