kully 560

is the 10v when the engine is not running or running? if it is when the engine is running you could try to run a separate switch 12v wire to the coil and see if that fixes the problem. also does you coil have the correct resistance? just a thought as I am not a fuel injector person, I run carbs.

I have to make some calls to see if all the material is not faced dyed. my driver seat when getting in the bottom corner close to the door gets scratched. I believe the synthetic material it faced dyed. I need to use touch up paint after a while for it to look good. the foam is getting really old, so I am going rebuild the seats and would like to use a material the is colored all the way through. thanks Carl, for the post about rebuilding the seats ALOT OF INFO!

have you use them, as far as leather not scratching through the color? and how was the fit? thanks

hello,I am looking to see what the forum folks here have been using as far as seat covers. I did recover my seats about 25 years ago and they still look great. but when I enter on the driver side the seat gets scratched from getting in. I did use MSA covers back then, and I would like to install new foam and better seat covers, any suggestions? thanks

I would remove the ballast resistor and install a 3 -ohm coil, and then disconnect the choke cables completely and then use the color tune and rebalance the carbs !

I believe it should be a 3 ohm coil with 4&6 cylinder engines

if you do use a color tune to adjust the fuel mixture, the disconnect the choke cables completely and let them hang.

you do not need anybody to do this!!! you need to do one carb at a time !! now disconnect the cable from the #2 screw let the choke lever on the carb drop down and then lift up that lever until it just barley starts to pull down the nozzle, then lift it back up so the nozzle is seated. now just drop the choke lever down just a touch and retighten the # 2 screw. do this on both carbs and you choke will be fine!

you need to lift the choke lever under the carbs until it just starts to pull down the nozzle and then back off just a touch then tighten screw#2

when I adjusted my choke cable on the 4 bolt carbs same as yours, I left the choke lever to the off position. now with the choke nozzle all the way up I just lowered the lever a touch and then tighten up the screw that holds the cable #2 screw. now with full choke on and cold start I will rev 2500 rpms and with the choke in the off position I am down to 700rpms. hope this helps

I did order the part on march 17, and I did receive the item today. so not to long of shipping times.

I just received these prop clamps from ebay. item # is 185685464615 and they are perfect fit and very tight for my datsun 260z. I had the one from msa and it was loose. these clamps fit very tight and need to be snaped in. the prop rod no longer wriggles. I am just letting the forum know if anybody need them . kully

I have purchased hardware from belmetric on line, and they even have all metric hardware in yellow zinc.

I just found out it is used for the amp meter . disregard

in the passenger side engine compartment there is a kanto 3 amp fuse ? does anybody know what it is used for? can I get rid of it? thanks

I had a magnaflow stainless exhaust installed with resonator.

also

I never check the oil level, but only when we get into the hot summer with humidity, I rebalance the carbs and notice the oil on the mixture screw. this car likes cold weather and really runs great. the summer with the hot temps and humidity I will get just a little rough idle like most carb cars.

I added oil because I thought I had a leak. never thought the over fill would come out the bottom.

hello, Captain Obvious and yes, I do fill the carbs and take it for a ride. I do check it before the next time out as it could be a month later and find oil on the mixture nut. I also thought the dome was sealed so that if over filling would be burned it off by the engine. I learned something about filling to the correct level only.

solved, as suggested by Mark I did call Steve over at z therapy today about the leak problem. now if you happen to over fill the carbs with oil and put the piston plunger back in, it will spill over in the dome and come out the bottom when the piston is inserted. I

thanks for all the help from this great forum.

ok Mark, I just check the piston lift, and they both have considerable resistance and drop pretty fast. but the rear seems a little faster than the front carb. I do have a slight clunk from both carbs as you said. but I did add a little oil to the carbs to bring up the oil level to the full mark early today and I never check the level before the oil top off. [my bad] I do know that if I over fill the carbs with oil the other excess oil gets burned off by the engine.

ok Mark, I will try that !

hi Mark, I do not drive the car much, maybe 500 miles a year. the oil level is always down below the lip ring in the filler neck. but it is never dry or out of oil. I always see oil down there.