kully 560

hello grannyknot, when I spoke to carter tech support the filter before the pump that they supply is a 60 micron ,I was informed by tech support not to go below 40 micron, it could restrict flow but I could increase up to 100 micron before the pump . this pump is not self priming ! I needed to install it at or below the fuel tank. I guess that might be why they do not want me go much lower on the filtration before the pump. I would love to be able to reach 3.5 psi at one point for the su carbs . I was thinking maybe a cleanable 100 micron billet filter before the pump [ more flow to the pump ?] if that will help me get to 3.5psi? I like to have the better filter before the regulator and carbs also .

if anybody is interested I way only able to get 3.2 psi from this pump . but the car runs great and quiet now. I have the stock carter 60 micron filter before the pump and a inline baldwin 15 micron before the regulator. hope this help anybody looking for a quiet pump for the su carbs.

well I installed this nice pump today pretty heavy compared to my old pump . I thought I had a master pump but it must have been replace years ago with the airtex 8016. this pump is bone quiet can not even hear it standing next to the car with just the ignition on. I have to go to the back and really listen. carter told me this pump draws 2.3 amps so here are some photos, now also in the photos I see I need to clean up some surface rust that is tomorrows project . next while I am under there cleaning up the surface rust I need to wire for the inertia switch. the pump pressure is rated at 4-6 psi so maybe later I will put the fuel pressure gauge back in and check the fuel pressure . the airtex 8016 pump gave me 2.7psi at the regulator that is the highest it would do.I would like to set this pump a little higher maybe 3.50 psi.

well I ordered the pump and will post how it runs should be by end of the week if anybody is interested. also I found today that carter bought airtex a few months ago from the carter people that's is very interesting.

well I think I found why there is a problem with my leak . I ordered this seal nos oem Nissan part and it does not have the internal spring around the rubber lip. I check on line with Timken and national brand seals and they have the inner spring which will kept it tight around the yoke . my Nissan brand must have been missing the part or there was a problem and the aftermarket company improved with the spring. so I will pull out the seal again and change with the Timken brand and really look over the yoke again and if I see any concerns I will order a new yoke and u joint . thanks for the help, and I will post how the up date fix went.

yes zed head it leaks right now. yes it was a simple job once I was able to undo the drive shaft bolts 1 had to be cut off, and I ordered all new ones to replace and I did anti size them so the hard part is over. I used a scotch bright pad to shin up the yoke it was not mirror like sort of dull metal looking but after 45 years it did not have any surface rust or pits . it just started leaking a little about a year ago and slowly is getting worst not buy a lot but I can tell when I move the car out of the garage I need to correct this problem now. the seal I took out was tore up where it meets the yoke maybe from age who knows but it was bad. I believe the old seal had a spring around the inner part of the seal and the new Nissan did not have the spring inside anymore, was it a design change later ?? yes maybe I should use a little seal sealant this time, I felt no scratches at all that is why I installed it dry . the flange looked like new but the seal was damaged must have been for a long time and now it has started to leak. I find it funny the shape the old seal was in that it took so long to start leaking. that's why I thought there might be another seal in there that I am missing.

no I did not take any pictures because when I removed the original seal it was tore up or worn out around where it meets the yoke. so I thought this would be a good fix. the seal does bottom out when I tapped it in the tail shaft housing. I also installed it dry and I did not think it needed any grease. could there be a better brand seal than Nissan. after I installed the new seal it was dry under there until I put about 100 miles on the car now it slings around because of the yoke spinning. it is not a bad leak just when the car sits for several weeks in the garage. but I hate oil leaks and this is something I need to fix. the oil will blow back the rear differential and it make it look like I have a leak there now also . I did polished up the yoke with scotch bright pads and there is no rust , pits or anything else.

I polished the drive shaft yoke, but it did not have any defects at all but shined it up anyway. I do not know if there is a inner bearing or inner seal? I used the factory Nissan seal and it looked different than the one that came out probably a later design. so I will remove it again and change it but should I use a different brand seal , is there any inner seals , I did not see any when looking in the end. I will also look up about the speedi-sleeve ,I think I know what there are.

hello I have a 1983 280zx turbo that is a automatic and my transmission output shaft is leaking! I replace the seal on the out side of the tail shaft with a new Nissan and it held up for few weeks and now it is leaking again. anybody have suggestion where to go next for this fix . thanks kully

has anybody tried this pump ? specs for carter is 4-6psi and 30gph and is also regulated . I am looking to replace my 25 year oil master pump and carry it for a spare so as not to need a hook if I break down when on the road. I do not see many different pumps posted here, I have seen some Airtex Carter 4070, and Holley red. just wondering if anybody tried this pump ? thanks

I think the same thing but I do not want to remove it with be sure as I do not have a plug for it !

yes Steve that is it thanks I guess I will remove it , looks like I can not use it . do you know if there is fluid behind it being it is a knock sensor ? do I need a plug or can I just remove it ? thanks kully

yes Dave I am not sure what this is also, if I can not use it I would like to plug it up if I can find what the thread size is ?

I have a 1983 280zx turbo motor and there is a sensor on the passenger side left of the oil filter and between the oil filter and the oil dip stick. now on the other side of the oil filter is the oil pressure sensor but I do not know what this one is . it reads normal open with a ohm meter and has 2 electrical connections on it and screws into the block. I am thinking it might be temperature and if so if I can use it for controlling my electric cooling fan. thanks

great thanks for the reply Zed Head I will leave well enough alone and just order the ngk plugs with the 11 for the higher gap

hello siteunseen again, I had my gap set to .050 with my set up and today I changed my plugs to the ngk bpr6es-11 gap that I had laying around . the ngk factory setting was at .041 and the car ran better with the closer gap. we spoke the other day about my carbs and I finally finished the float setting . I had to have the wife blow in the gas inlet tube as I set the floats to .55 and now my mixture screws are set at 2 -1/2 turns down . I had a slight stumble of line but I corrected that with a slight increase in idle speed by about 40 rpms and the stumble is gone. so know I am just playing with an ignition tune- up . but the car ran better going from the plug gap at .50 down to .041. if I decide to go lower I will order the plugs with out the 11 at the end. just looking to see what others are set at also . thanks for your reply

I am using ngk plugs bpr6es-11 with a gap of .041 and a msd 6al ignition and the blaster 2 coil. I am just looking for what other members are doing for plug gaps . I have a l28 block with n47 head and 1971 su 4 bolt carbs all stock . I see the 240z runs about .031 on the gap and the 260z runs about .036 on the gap and now the 280z runs about .044 on the gap . it looks like the fuel injected cars run a higher gap. I like the projected tip plugs the best for these carburetor cars ,and I am going to order some new plugs and the ngk bpr6es has a smaller gap than the bpr6es-11 . just looking if I should go with the smaller or the larger gap plugs. thanks

yes I saw it on the lowes web site. It looks like only made and sold in the 3oz cans but cheaper from where I bought it from. I know 1 can is plenty but I like to have a spare .it seems as I get older I like to have a little stock . it is good for my compressor motor also thanks siteunseen

I will have to check lowes thanks ,I could only find a 3 oz can from ace hardware!!

hi mark , today I bought the blue label 3-in-one oil it is different from the red label one I was using . still had some stumble of line after I richen the back carb but it was better so I went ahead and changed the damping oil to the blue label 3-in-one which is 20wt. the motor idles better and most of the stumble is gone probably about 95% gone. it still could be a tad lean but I do not think by much. I like the fact that I have no fumes in the cabin at all and it idles great. I have to remember this is a carb car and not fuel injection. I will check the plugs again when the motor cools down and see where I am at . thanks again for the tip on the Nissan 20wt damping oil. kully

hi mark my first 3 plugs looked good but the rear 3 plugs looked a little lean. I will try the car today after I turned down the rear carb a 1/4 turn down more. I was not aware of the 20wt oil that Nissan recommended. I thought fork oil or 3-1 oil was good, I think it is like 8 weight oil but will give the 20wt oil a try if my stumble is still there.

I just changed my floats as 1 was going bad it had gas in it . I also have gross jets and spoke to steve yesterday at z therapy about the setting measurement and he told me .55" down from the lid with no gasket. he also said gross jets and needle valves are the same measurement !! I asked him about the bridge measurement and his reply was that this is another way of doing it but very hard to do as the gas in the bridge hole is hard to see it is like looking into a mirror. so I set mind at the .55" down from the lid and it seems to run good with just a little stumble off line but I think I may be a little lean on the back carb as I pulled out the plugs today to check . so I gave the back carb a 1/4 turn down more and re sync. will test tomorrow as it rained all day today. but the .55" seems to be fine. try it nothing to lose. PS my front carb is turned down 2- 3/4 turns and the rear is turned down 2-1/2 turns as of now.

Stanley mine was the opposite ! I balanced the carbs on a cool day early summer and it idled great ran fine . then on a hot humid day it idled poorly but ran great, I have all ways balanced several time a year as weather changed .maybe it was just a little on the lean side the hole time for a smooth idle. for the mixture adjustment I used the color tune ,I also tried to used the lifting pins on the sides of the 4 bolt su carbs to raise the piston a little for the change in rpms but my engine never really reacted like the ones you see on u tube so that is why I all ways went with the color tune for the readings. I was originally around 2 1/4 turns down approx. now both are 2 5/8 turns down and much better all around.

thank for the suggestion Jonathanrussell I will keep that in mind about the heat shield.I know the headers put out a lot of heat and that is also been on my mind. I went with the jet hot headers as it is supposed help with the heat but it still gets hot anyway . I do not drive the z when it is to hot out as I removed the a/c 20 years ago,and with only 2 open windows as you know these cars can get hot on the inside. now my 1971 air cleaner does not have the ducts for summer or winter modes and I all ways thought about bringing the air in from the front of the car so as to try to decrease the heat in the engine area. but I do not know if the su carbs have enough suction to pull the air from all the way from the front of the car back to them. so now when you drive the z will it be like ram air and run to lean and maybe run to rich at idle? right now as of today the z is running great if not perfect but the temps today were in the mid to upper 70s. the next hot day I will take it out and see it being a 1/4 turn lean was my problem.the plugs were a little more on the white side then the pictures I posted but the tips still had a tan color to them . it ran great off line ,mid range ,top end , I never thought about it being lean at idle! maybe one day I look into the header wrap also but the jet hot headers look so nice!

hi Mark, I check the turns down on both carbs and the front was 2 3/4 turns down and the rear was 2 1/2 turns down . so I set both at 2 5/8 turns down and re balanced both carbs and it runs perfect now. I guess the previous setting was a 1/4 turn up lean and maybe that is why the weather was affecting the idle [some days richer when warmer and some days leaner when cooler] thanks again for the advise on checking with the choke as far as being to lean . also it looks like my floats are set perfect .kind regards