kully 560

pumping the peddle does nothing on these cars try either and make sure the choke is in full position , if the carbs are empty it will take some time to prime them . check spark also

these bulbs are the wedge type with a glass base and has the wire for contact on each side of the base. they come in mini , small, medium, and large sizes. I would never have thought the mini is still being used and for sale in the auto stores today .

no I do not think so the map light has metal prongs on each side if I remember and is much larger than the choke warning bulbs . the choke warning indicator bulb is about 3/16" wide at the base and about 1/2" tall and it just plugs into the holder. long story short I called advance auto and there was not listing for the car and msa does not have a listing or sell them either. so I took a trip to the local auto store with the mini wedge bulb and match it up to the Sylvania brand which comes in 1.3 watts or 1.4 watts so I lucked out .I did not think the auto stores would carry such a small bulb with todays cars. but thanks for all the help.

found it I use a sylania # 74 bulb at 1.4watts

1974 early 260z

also I have the glass bottom that # translate to a metal bottom?

thanks david but who is the manufacture for that # I need the push in mini bulb

looking for the part # to replace the dash console light bulbs for the choke and rear window defogger it is in front of the shifter with one on left and one on the right. no listing at msa and auto stores?

well been going over this post in another thread maybe some new info here if anybody can help . I have 1 1983 f54 block and using a new oil dipstick 11140-p6502 . the dip stick measures 7" from the high mark to the rubber stop on the dip stick .I am only able to but in 4.25 qts of oil to reach the high mark so any suggestions?

looking at the tubes it appears that they are the same yes , but it seems the sticks are a little different from your measurements . now motorsport auto shows the stick is interchangeable from 1970 -1983? this does not make sense either ,and the 2 books I have show different capacities also. if I went to exactly the top of the grid pattern on the oil stick I would have 4 quarts or maybe a tad more in the motor so maybe I should not lose sleep over 1/2 -3/4 of a quart?

from the block up to the top of the tube is exactly 3". yes motorsport says interchangeable ?

the measurement from the top of the grid pattern to the sealing edge it is 7" and I added a 1/4" for the thickness of the rubber to the top . I know when the 1983 zx turbo motor was installed I did not have a problem with the oil pan fitting the crossmember . I later located a 1977 280z motor and I change out the cylinder head and oil pan because I did not like having to plug up the oil cooling line in the oil pan for the turbo. if I remember correctly both pans were a match .so I did some head work to the n47 and swap out the p90a head for the n47 also .

after I read your post I checked ebay and a Nissan dealer had the oil sticks for sale with 2 left so I bought 1, so nothing like new for the z . the length is from the top of the grid pattern to the top of the rubber is 7 -1/4" and my stick is straight with no bends to it also . but I still do not under stand why 3 difference reference are 3/4 of a quart different. I have been driving cars since the 70s and every car I have owned if it said 5 qts that's what it takes. my new ford truck says 7.7 qts and that fills just right so this bothers me. you know I have owned this car since 1979 and started the full resto in 1990 -1995 along with the new motor swap and even since then this oil thing has bothered me. but when I posted about the shell rotella t4 oil with the added zinc last week I changed the oil and I started thinking maybe I should ask if anybody knows why there is such a difference in oil capacity . I think when I had the 260z motor I believe that took 5 qts. I think all the oil pans and blocks are the same except I maybe the f54 blocks might be Siamese cylinders if I remember correctly.

hi zed head I pick up a new 280zx oil dip stick part # 11140-p6502. it is the same as the one I had in the engine. (nicer looking with yellow shrink tube on top. haha was not a loss $ 15.00 shipped) so with 4 1/2 quarts of oil and the large oil filter the reading just touches the h on the high level mark. my Chilton's book says capacity is 4.75 qts and the Haynes says 10 pints and on the nico forum somebody posted 4.25 quarts. there is no way to put in 5 quarts of oil with out it being over filled . I am just going to fill to the high level mark but it still bothers me that there is a 3/4 quart difference between the 3 references.

yep I ordered a zx dip stick so I let you now how it works out zed head thanks

yes this has been in the back of my mind for years but I all ways figured I was in range ! I all ways thought the blocks and pans were the same and I picked the better looking dip stick never thought about matching them up. so what 50 gallon oil pan?

I measured the dip stick and yes zed head it is 7 1/4" down to the top of the rubber stop. when I changed out the oil pan from the 1983 zx motor to the 1977 280z motor oil pan I used the 1977 dip stick to match but never thought the was going to be such a difference. what is you thoughts on how to correct this problem?

I do the oil changes in the garage level floor.but the f54 block is a turbo block from a 1983 zx. I swap the p90a head for the n47 head along with the oil pan which both came from 1977 280z motor. the reason the oil pan was swap is because of the oil cooling line that is use on the 280zx turbo motor. so I thought the z motors all took 5 qt to fill up? (large filter ZED HEAD) I DO FILL PUT IN AS MUCH AS I CAN UP TO THE HIGH LEVEL MARK. so adjusted to the newer trucks and cars it they take what it states in the owners manual.

this seems like a dumb question but on a f54 block and a n47 head I can only get 4.25 -4.5 qt of oil in this motor. I drain the motor oil when it is hot, I let it drain for about 1/2 hour then I change the filter. now I fill with 4 qt of oil ,start it up bring up pressure and then I shut down and let it cool for about 1 hour or so and then I check it and it only takes maybe a 1/4 qt - 1/2 qt more to top it off to high line on the dip stick. every book says 5 qt but not in this motor. does every body get in 5 qt of oil? I check the rubber stop on my oil dip stick and it does not move so I now that is not the problem. I just do not want to dump in 5 qt and it shows over filled also.

if it helps I bought it at tractor supply

it is a diesel engine oil for the newer diesel engines so it should be sold in all 50 states I would think?

I use to use the defy but no longer able to get it .so I looked on the quaker state site and no longer made. that is what led me to the rotella t4 oil. I believe the quaker state high mileage oil is what replaced it and when I called them I think if I remember right the zinc was about 800ppms.

spoke to Rotella this week and they suggest to now use there Rotella t4 10w-30w diesel oil in the z cars because of the higher 1200 ppm zinc content,that is better to use with the overhead cams. it is because the new diesel engines do not need as much cleaning agents anymore with the new emission they carry. just would like to see the forum thoughts.

the sensor I bought is a 180 degree sensor but when I check its operation it closes at 192 degree which then turns on the fan that is why I installed it on the upper radiator hose . I do not know what msa sensor works at but all the internet reading I have read most use the upper radiator hose so the water coming out is not to hot . when I installed the radiator sensor prob that thermos cool gives the instructions said to install it in the upper portion of the radiator I believe center location which would be about the same as the upper radiator hose temp give or take a few degrees. so now after installing the sensor my temperature gauge now stays on the m symbol which is perfect.

I have a color tune and had the same problem with checking the color reading would not change when turning the mixture nuts. turns out I had a dirty fuel filter ,car drove fine but it effected the final adjustments. it screw up the color tune reading so I changed the filter and all is good .now when I turn the mixture nuts the color tune plug changes with the adjustment .