kully 560

I bought a new not rebuilt steering rack at the beginning of 2017 from car steering on ebay this year for $272.00 for my early 260z . my rack was bad had a little play in it so I install this new rack and now the car drives perfect. I see now they sell rebuilt but you can check with them if they have any new racks. not much can go wrong with these racks that can not be rebuilt but I was lucky to find a new one ,as far as the tie rods I used moog brand. also the rack came with a new inner tie rod which I think is about $90.00

this is the temperature sensor I use ebay # is 232282757516 ,180 degree 1/8" npt threads. the 34mm radiator hose adaptor I used is ebay # 110957401514, 1/8" npt threads . I installed it right next to the thermostat housing in the upper radiator hose and the sensor screws into the adaptor with Teflon tape. the sensor is used to break the ground wire on a 4 pin 30 amp relay that I pickup local at the auto parts store. the relay has 4 pins and they all use the same common terminals numbers no matter what brand .now for wiring the #30 is for a 30 amp positive wire from the battery fused , # 87 terminal goes to the fan motor,#86 terminal goes to a 12v switch positive wire, and # 85 is the ground wire that goes to the center pin on the temperature sensor, and the 34mm radiator hose adaptor has a ground screw next to the sensor that you would connect a wire to that screw and then connect it to the chassis on the car as to make the ground connection for the relay to be activated when the sensor calls for cooling on-off cycle. make certain that the center pin on the temperature sensor gets the wire from terminal # 85 on the relay because when you install the 34mm hose adaptor it touches the thermostat housing and that makes a ground connection and if you switch the thermostat sensor wires backwards the fan comes on all the time . there is not a lot of room for the hose adaptor it has to get installed right up against the thermostat housing and the upper hose bends right after it. I chose this hose adaptor because some reviews said the cheaper ones on ebay that the 1/8" npt threads were not threaded that well . this adaptor has perfect threads and the sensor screws right in . if you decide to install a manual override switch you simply connect one side of the switch to terminal # 85 on the relay and the other side of the switch will connect to ground or chassis on the car.

well I just finish install new hoses and antifreeze and the sensor in the upper radiator hose works great in the upper hose, on -off no problem temp gauge stays on the m letter in the gauge cycles perfect much better than the crappy radiator sensor. it belongs in the upper hose thanks for all the reply kully

good point I ordered a 180 degree fan sensor switch and when I tested it in hot water it will close the contact at 192 degree to turn the fan on so that should be fine in the upper radiator hose . thermostat is a 180 degree and sensor is 192 degree now that I am thinking about it and reading these posts it does belong in the upper hose thanks kully

thanks for the answers I would have to agree that it is normal than . all is good then

these cars seem to run there best with timing set between 34 -36 degrees at all in 2500- 3000 rpms that is why I have mine set to 34 degrees perfect spot. but as captain obvious says this is normal for the rpms to increase . I was just looking to see if other forum members here have the same issue with there cars as of doing the same thing .

thinking about this if it was on the upper radiator hose the water is all ways hotter coming out from the engine so the fan would run non stop ???

I bypass every thing that the stock 260 ignition had meaning the stock ignition module , the warm up switch in the thermostat housing . my msd has just a 12 switch feed to it. my distributor in the car now is a 1980 d6k8-22 which has a very high vacuum advance that is why I do not use it, so I set the timing with a advance timing light at 34 degrees at 3000 rpms with vacuum advance plug up all the time . I know it is not any thing electric that would raise the idle that is why I am looking into carbs,it is when she warms up the idle goes up.

thanks for the reply that is what I was thinking also

maybe I should have fill you in more on the car ,I am running a msd ignition with a zx dissy no vacuum advance is hookup and the timming is set 17 degrees before tdc so as to see 34 degrees at full advance. plugs gap at 45 , and it has a header on it with 2 -1/4" exhaust all the way back. the carbs were just balance and the mixture is right on. starts great, runs great, it has always done this been living with it . but I guess I would like to look further into this if it is not normal. when I start the car it idles great but 700 rpms in park, drive around with choke open up a little 1-2 miles she warms up then no choke runs great but after a good 10 minute drive the idle increases [ in park] like maybe the carb oil gets hot and the carbs are reacting different just my thoughts

I am removing the radiator electric fan sensor [sucks]and going to install it in the radiator hose with the hose adaptor . some people say to install in the upper hose and others say to install it in the bottom hose. so some say the upper hose will read the hot water coming out of the motor hotter than what is going in and others say to control the water going into the motor . my stat is a 180 degree and the sensor is a 180 degree that will close the contact at 192 degrees to turn on the fan. so where is ever body installing these sensors on this z forum? thanks

is it normal for the idle to go higher by about 250 rpms after the car has warm up to operating conditions ? starts and idles at about 700rpms then it goes to about 950 rpms after warm up . I am using z therapy oil in the carbs I received the oil back in the late 1990s when the carbs were rebuilt ,maybe thinner oil? the motor is a l28 with 1971 4 bolt su carbs also the car is a automatic . thanks

maybe that is why it is not there? I would have thought it would be on both sides but if that is the case I will have to make one up also not that I drive on dirty roads just looks funny.thanks kully

I have a early 1974 datzun 260z on the drivers side rear tire is the inner fender wheel well I call it . just below that is a small panel the attaches to it like so you do not see the muffler from looking at the rear tire [inside behind tire] . I guess if you had mud flaps back there the flaps might cover it . it is a small curved panel so as road dirt does not fly up on to the muffler. any way I need one and can not find what the name Nissan called it as so I maybe can look up the part # or source a used one . I have one on the pass. side but not the drivers side .anybody know what it is called or better have one for sale. kind regards kully

just google spark plug color chart

I also agree check the plugs ! my carbs are set about 2 turns out ,I can change the color of the plug with 1 good drive black to tan and than to white each time . my plugs are set to very light tan at the tips and she runs great. every time you adjust the mixture recheck the balance on the carbs .I also use a non resister plug like the ngk bp6es-11 and the car like it better. I have the inline heater control thermostat and it works great. my first drive when cold I use very little choke for a couple minutes than its fine after that. if I drive the car several time that day no choke is needed at all.

I agree I do not like taking mine out when the roads are busy because as you said I do not like other drivers when they pull up so close to my rear end and I keep thinking where to get a rear bumper!! I drive several hundred miles a year and keep my car in a climate control garage, but having owned the 260z since 1979 I still like to wrench it and do some upgrades to it then take it out for a 10 -20 mile drive then put it away .

by the way siteunseen I just check out you 5 z pictures very nice !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I see you have been busy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

no problem for the doubting .I bought this distributor over 10 years ago from black dragon brand new and it was advertised as zx distributor . then I found out that looking at walter m distributor curve sheet that is has a very high vacuum advance so I plug it up and just timed it at 36 degrees full advance. but somebody on this site years ago informed me that the distributor is for a 1980 280zx automatic car. it came with the e12-80 module all brand new so in my notes I have wrote down 1980 zx auto distributor. I never thought to check the height difference but the 1977 cap and rotor fits fine and works fine. as siteunseen shows in the pictures also thank you for that . the rotors are taller and the cap is taller, but the 280z cap and rotor fits and works great , why the increase in height that Nissan did I do not know why. I always thought the caps and rotors fit from 240 through 280zx but there is the height difference on the zx caps and rotors. it is about 1/2" taller as siteunseen shows in the picture. that made me start checking old stock pulling out buckets of z parts in the shed to find the old caps and rotors, diameter is fine just the height. thanks for the help everbody. learned something today never to old for that kully

yes it is a zx distributor #d6k8-22 has very high vacuum advance that's why I run it with vacuum advance plugged up and have my timing advanced to 36 degrees all in!

I made the mistake and ordered the 1977 280z cap and rotor instead of the 1980 zx cap and rotor from rock auto. the cap and rotor fits tight no play seems to fit like it belongs there and car runs great just seems fine. I would just do not know what the difference is being beck arnley has a different part # for the 1980 zx dissy

I ordered the wrong distributor cap! the one I have now is for a 1977 280z and the distributor cap needed is for a 1980 280zx distributor. the 280z fits fine tight no wobble and ignition timing has not changed . does anybody know the difference between the 2 cap as they have different part #s. was ordering plugs for the 1977 and did not change the year for the distributor cap and rotor.

yes I will fab up something with maybe a thin piece of aluminum with a grommet for the wires to exit out. I will probably just make up a small wire harness 2 wires with stack-ons for the e12-80 and leave it in the car. it is just 2 screws to hold it on and 2 stack-ons on each side a 5 minute change tops. just to let you know the car starts better when cold very little cranking and starts right up. with the 2 modules hooked up together I had to do a lot more cranking .

no I may have to make something up ,the e12-80 is almost brand new. I was reading up yesterday some old post that some people even j mortensen was one that I remember ran the msd 6al with the e12-80 removed and suggested to wire it up using the red and green wire from the dissy to the violet and green from the msd 6al. I used the red to violet and keep green to green.the car ran nice seems to pull better through the rpm range , idles the same , but has better throttle response. what triggers the 6al is the dissy when the e 12-80 is removed the distributor I guess acts like a switch. on one side of the 6al is a molded plug that is used for this purpose it has the violet and green wire . I have read that a few people have done this way to remove the e12-80 to eliminate one failure . now if the mds fails I still have the e 12-80 for backup. but there was a performance gain here when removed not a lot but better throttle response. I will see how the car starts in the morning when cold as I almost always need choke. I was hoping the ones who did this mod had a way to close off the opening. ps I remember somebody was saying that you are controlling a module with a module like the e12-80 with the msd 6al. the mds should run alone or e12-80 alone. this was in a old posts , so I tried it and like it better.

when I remove the e12-80 and wire the pickup direct to the msd 6al what do people use to close up the hole in the side of the dissy thanks kully