kully 560

well I installed the ttt adjustable tc rods today for anybody that might be thinking about them . the ride was tighter and more responsive,nice improvement over the stock rods with poly bushings .put about 20 miles on from smooth roads to semi rought roads and the feel in the steering wheel is not any more than the poly bushings these rods are very beefy as compared to the oem crap

I guess for those who need adjustable tc rods you could remove the helm joint from the rod couplings and make adaptors from the rod couplings to the frame mount and use the stock bushings again

thanks for your reply mike. when I purchase the 260z in 1979 I did not notice it was in a small accident and my caster is off about 1-2 degrees on the drivers side. so I purchased a caster adjusting kit from msa auto about 15 years ago and now the rubber bushings are starting to crack and split apart . now these bushings are no longer made so I can not replace them,so I am looking at these tc rods with deep interest. do you or can you tell me is there any feed back in the steering wheel ? I understand you only drove it for about 100 miles thanks kully

has anybody used these tension rods ? and if so can you give a report as to pros and cons. looking to be able to adjust my caster .I only found these so far .there rods bolt up metal to metal on frame support , no bushings used . I do not know if this is bad as far as feed back in steering wheel or does it not make any difference between using a urthane bushings ,or the metal on metal the way these bolt on to frame thanks kully

thats what I did l28 engine and e46 manaflod off of a 1971

my 1974 260z had a clicking relay the would do the same thing . found the relay by cycling the key and had someone feel for the relay that was clicking.then held the key to start position and had someone tap the relay a few times and it started . so bad relay replace or bypass like I did kurt

try to find the relay that is clicking mine was the interlock relay in my 1974 260z . the relay would not pull in all the way . if you find the one that clicks hold the key to start position and have someone tap the relay and see if it starts if it does replace the relay or like mine nla so I by passed it .kurt

my 1974 260z had been jumping around also with turn signals on some times lights etc this was after the 79 dissy upgrade .so I used the msd tach adaptor and no luck . spoke to the tech at msd and he recommended to use a relay and feed the tack directly from battery bingo my tach is dead calm works perfect . might be worth a try to feed it from the battery direct and see if it might be something else causeing the problem kurt

yes I did the swap over from a early 260 8/74 to a e12/80 dissy .the difference is night and day . starts easy and runs better all around . mine was the orignal auto dissy daul pickup where it retards 8 degrees after warm up for emmissions . I also used the msd 6a ingition and blaster coil . car never ran so good .

stephen I do not know if the vaccum delay would come on to hard or very gradual I have never used one . but I should hook up a vaccum gauge to my ported vaccum just to see what it is pulling at let say 2500 rpms.also check my timming advance also at that rpms to see how much it advances.maybe the is something to gain with the vaccum delay I will put that one on my list of fun things to play with. thanks kurt

hi stephen sorry to get back to you a day or 2 late ,as I had long work days. I am not sure if you knew but the 260 setup is replaced with a l28 /f54 block stock with n47 head , 1971 4 bolt su carbs ,e46 intake , jet hot headers,new 1979 e12/80 dissy .I tried the manafold vaccum and the motor seems to idle higher than ported vaccum .I still have the carbon canister in the car and had a bad smell all the time when I hooked the canister up to the manifold vaccum. my 1974 service manual showed the front carb/ ported vaccum hooked up to the carbon canister and with a tee inline to the dissy vaccum advance.so I tried it and the smell is just about gone at idle, and my orignal takeoff had a hestation which is gone all together now . you are right about my hybrid alot of different stuff but the car seems to run its best now . also my timming is set at 15btdc and it seems to idle very smooth now . not quite sure about the vaccum delay if it will work better but if you think so I would sure be willing to give it a try .kurt

I have a 1979 e12/80 dissy running with a e46 manifold .the manafold pulls vaccum all the time and the carb pulls under throttle ( ported vaccum) at idle the ported vaccum hardly pulls any . but under throttle it pulls great I found the ported is best for me when I give it the gas the vaccum advances my timming kurt

well just to let anybody know if they are looking at these tires I put about 20 miles on them and all I can say is very smooth and handle great!!!.I told my wife when I came home it just made my 1974 z ride like a 20 year newer car.tire size I went with is a 205/65/15 speed rated v .I wanted to stay with my other size 215/60/15 but cooper only offered them in a h rated speed. so I stepped up to the 205/65/15 for the v rated. my old tires were dunlap sport a2 with only about 2000 miles on them in the 10 years I owned them.I am so happy with these tires maybe I will start to drive the car more . I hope this helps anybody who might be looking at the coopers cs4.by the way cooper offers a 45 day trial and I got the $40 rebate.so $69 each installed after rebate kurt

I have a early 260z with a L28 motor ,1979 dissy,e46 intake manifold,4 bold su carbs.been reading old posts and my service manual .the vaccum line I have hooked to my vaccum advance on my dissy is from the ported vaccum valve on the front carb. am I supposed to have a tee in that line and run it to the carbon canister where it says dist. vc ? right now I am running the dist. vc line from the carbon canister to manifold vaccum.there is allways a strange smell to this car when not running in my garage .I would like to straighten out the vaccum line if they are not right.thanks kurt

I am looking for the choke cable support bracket that mounts to the valve cover. as I understand the 1974 260z only used this bracket ,it mounts almost in the center from back to front.if anybody has one and not useing it, it would help me. of course I would pay for it also kurt

sblake01 you did not put me on the offence . I have owned this car since 1979 and there is allways something to tinker with. thats why people love z cars. sometimes I put off a problem for a long time as the car sits in my garage and does not get used for a while.then I get the bug to drive it and work on it . the car is fully restored but there is allways upgrades to be done.when I can not fix a problem I put it off for a while to give my head a rest and look for something else to tinker with kurt

beezee the tech had me use my fluke meter and I read the tach output on the msd6a and it was between 2.8 volts and 3.1 volts so that told him the tach output was working fine. then I took the reading on the msd 8920 and the voltage was 14volts it was the violet wire for the tach. so that was working fine. so we spoke a little more about wireing and decided seperate feeds and seperate grounds .it works like a charm.so I guess you know beezee this made my day .but I still need to run a seperate feed as I said I tryed it off of the positive side of the battery.I will pull fuse box and detail it and hook up the seperate feed this week and let you know . the tech thinks the feed for the 8920 was spliced in to close to the msd6a kurt

sblake01 I fixed the interlock seat belt problem 2 weeks ago as another forum member told me which wire to use from the interlock relay .the black with white tracer I connected to the solenoid and it starts perfect .I replyed back to him and thank him.the tach is fixed today as posted in the drivetrane section. but another member yesterday ask me to try and take a voltage reading from the parking light circuit to see if there is a voltage drop, as the parking circuit can have trouble from overload. he thought that could have caused me trouble with the tack.so 35 year old fuse box I would like to put new in but nla so I will detail it .p90a head still on hold kurt

beezee I spoke to msd today and resolved the tach issue ,the bouncing or pulse issue was because they recommend on the 8920 to ground to the battery not chassy. also I had to refeed the msd8920 from another source such as not from the black/white tracer wire that feeds the msd 6a.and also feed the b term on the e12/80 dissy. it pick up pulse from the msd 8920 which caused the tach trouble.I feed the msd 8920 direct from the battery and my tach is perfect, with lights on or off.so I need to pick another source for power.I am going to pull my fuse box and detail and rebuild it for cleaner power as the oem is nla and msa says the 1973 will not fit.can not hurt as it is 35 years old. kurt

is there a difference between a 1973 240 fuse box and a early 1974 260 fuse box.like to upgrade my 260 one as the fuse holders are loose . msa only shows 1971 /1972 or /1973 thanks

i will check and let you know the results thanks kurt

beezee I found the tach output and tried wireing the white wire from the 8920 to it and left the msd6a white wire connected to the c term on the e12/80 .the tach works but not as good as before and now when the headlights are turn on the tach stops working alltogether.the other 2 black wires that went to the ballast resister I spliced together also.I remember when I talk to msd tech I thought they said I might need a capacitor in line that they would supply but just want to make sure I have it hooked up correct. at least the 8920 works somewhat but the 8910 did nothing at all!

I have the msd 6a with no tach output and the violet wire I thought from the 8920 was the tach output

I have a early 1974 260z with e12/80 dissy .installed the msd 6a with the blaster 2 coil .could not get the tach working with the msd 8910 so I pickup the msd 8920 tach adaptor. tach works but there is a little bounce there and also when the headlights are turned on it stops for a moment. I hooked up the msd 4 wire tach adaptor as follows black ground, red 12v switch power, violet to blue wire from wire harness in car which is the tack wire, white to white wire from msd 6a and also connects to c term. on e12/80. msd is closed today . is this the correct hookup thanks kurt

yes, I believe that msd told me that the 8910 is for positive side of coil and the 8920 is for the neg. side of coil . I ordered the 8920 so when it gets here I will give it a try, hope it works . it bothers me to have a good ingition now and no tach.i could install the autometer tach but it does not look like the orignal guages close but no cigar kurt