kully 560

hi Steve, I am not sure but when I do adjust the mixture nut there is a little oil on the adjusting nut. I do not know where else it could be coming from! my finger always has oil on it after the adjusting. now when I add oil to the carb, I fill it to the inside the ring lip that can be seen when the filler is open down below, I would guess about 1" down.

I need a little help from the forum again, I have 1971 4 bolt su carbs that seems to have a small oil leakage from the mixture nut. not bad but when I adjust the mixture my fingers get wet with oil. is there a o-ring in there I can change? also can it be done with the carbs still in the manifold buy removing the assembly from the bottom of the carbs? thanks

thanks for the reply, I do know about the longer studs that need to be used. I did read years ago that the plugs did burn more evenly also.

thanks, I let you know how I make out. should be a fun project kully

I was thinking about doing this and when the intake and exhaust manifolds were off I would like to repaint the engine block. kill 2 birds with 1 stone, and like I said just a winter project.

thank captain, I do run the coolant and never thought about the leak from the n36. may just leave well enough alone than!

I have a question about intake manifolds, I was just thinking for a winter project. I have a stock 280zx motor with a header and 4 bolt su carbs. so right now, I have the e46 intake manifold on the motor and the car runs great. but I heard some place years ago that the n36 has better flow. has anybody made the swap, is it worth the hassle. and if so, do I use the 71 carb thick insulator or the 260z thin insulator from the n36 intake. thanks again kully

I used the brand Canopus from amazon with great success about 2 months ago. I used the black color instead of the aluminum color. I did install it ever where possible even in the spare tire well. I removed the vapor tank and install it in that side, the antenna side and also the hole rear deck. I did remove the seats and covered the whole floorboard, drivers and passenger. what a difference in the ride and maybe I added 30lbs. no big deal for the weight, for the way the car rides. I am going to do the riser panel behind the seats and as much of the doors as I can, and I will stop there. maybe at the end game I added 35-40 lbs tops. it was worth it for the quiet ride. it is a must do project.

great thanks for all the help. great forum!!!!!

yes, I do know that most screws are jis but I do not have any screws that will match. I was looking for the thread size so I can purchase some from the hardware store. these screws are no longer produce from Nissan. thanks

yes, those are the ones! they were no longer available at msa. they did not know the thread size after I ordered the new bumper stops yesterday. thanks for the help.

does anybody know the thread size for holding these bumpers on. thanks

ok thats what that was thanks

hi Steve, when he started the car, he had a little voltmeter in there that was reading 14.2-14.4 volts. did you install the upgrade alternator in your z and left the ammeter?

hi Yarb, the fan does have a 30amp relay feed directly from the battery! and thanks Steve, for the video on the internal regulated alternator install. I did replace the alternator about 2 years ago with a 40amp version, but that was all that was available at that time with the pandemic. I did order it at Rock Auto after I read Zed Heads reply back this afternoon about the 280z 60amp alternator. it was the last one in stock, so I jumped on it. I did watch the entire video and saw he has a voltmeter in the car, but my early 260z still has the amp meter. I would have to look into that down the road if the amp meter gauge would need to be changed with a 280z voltmeter gauge. I do believe I would need the voltmeter gauge to complete the upgrade. but for $23.00 right now for the 60amp alternator it is not a big loss if and when I do decide to make the change down the road. thank you.

yes, this also through me for curve ball. I think the spall electric fan was just too much current draw at the low rpms. I will look into the bigger alternator and see if rock auto lists the 60amp version! thanks

thanks Zed Head for the help!!! I did take your suggestion today. I used the blue wire at the coil and with the early 74 ingition module removed. I had no continuity from the blue wire to the signal wire at the tach. I did try wiring direct again from the msd 6a tach output to the back of the tach and it works great. now when I did try that before, I was using the fan override switch in the cab to turn the fan on and the tach would drop, but I never let the engine warm up. [ too much load] now when the engine is cold it will idle at about 650 rpms and when fully warm up it will idle about 850 -900 rms. so with the lower rpms it looks like the alternator was not putting out enough. I am still using the stock charging system with a 50amp alternator, and also using the external voltage regulator. but I still can't use the electronic flasher, could be with some 90% led bulbs, but that is no big deal. thank you very much again for your help. you are a great forum member. kully

I did find the problem today with the tach bouncing. I removed the cec electronic flasher for the turn signals and the hazard lights and no more bouncing of the tach with the turn signals and hazard lights. I did reinstall the oem niles flashers back in. now I wired the msd 6a tach output directly to the tach and it does work fine. except when the cooling fan comes on it does drop at idle about 400 rpms momentarily. I then wired back in the v-booster and had to use 3-100k ohm resistor in parallel so I would get 33.3 ohms total between the v-booster tach output and the tach input, and everything still works great but now when the cooling fan does come on the rpms only drop about 200 rpms momentarily. making headway!!!!

let me see if the resistors have any effect tomorrow when they get here that should give me better in site. maybe that 2.2k ohm resistor in the wiring harness has some effect. I did bypass it with the direct wiring from the tach to the msd. my wiring is clean, as being electrician for 40 years, nothing is hacked but maybe I did miss something, we are never too old to learn something new. thanks

the turn signals effect the tach also when the fan is not running, the tach bounces with the turn signal.

I did install a separate fuse block next to the battery with 6 circuits. all of my aftermarket stuff comes from that fuse block. including the fan, fan controller, msd , and fog lights. everything in the cab runs off of the interior fuse block.

I tried the msd tach output wired directly with the tachometer and it does seem normal rpms and no bouncing at all. except when the cooling fan comes on, I do get a big dip on the tachometer. It must still need a resistor and not the technoversion v-booster. which all it is doing is raising the voltage signal and I am lowering it with the resistors. I have a 1watt resistor kit coming tomorrow from amazon and I will put the stock 2.2k ohm in line with the msd output connection and the tach input connection and see if that corrects the drop under current load. if not, I will have start testing different resistor values to see if I should be able to correct the drop. thanks, everybody for the help! and Zed Head for the heads about the no pulse from the msd tach connection that was a good call.

now if the msd bypasses the multiple spark output on the tach output connection, which I did not know it would be worth a try!

I did tape up the blue wire by the coil, and I did run a single wire from the msd tach output directly to the tachometer.

yes, it should be lower with the resistor.