kully 560

you would have to punch out the center pin on the oem strut. then you would use the adaptors that come with the kit. very easy to do about a 1/2- hour job. do not make the bolts that hold the strut to tight, and I did use locktite on the nuts.

just to let the forum members know I have a 260z with the 2 lift struts for the hatch. today I did install the Stabilus brand strut part # is 3b250273 and the hatch opens up 95% on its own. after I push the button to open the hatch, I raised it maybe 3-4" and it goes all the way to the top. what a difference. I believe the force is 44lbs for each strut and it does close really easy. just an update for the forum.

I did finish the rear axle stub bearings today. thanks Zed Head for the help, I removed the stub axle and you were right about the seal causing friction. I did set it flush with a block of wood and a hammer yesterday. now after looking at the seal again today the seal has to be set in almost a 1/4" from the outside. there is just a small lip that I felt and set the seal up to that which just about touching the inner bearing. I torque the stub axles down to 200- foot pounds and it does spin freely with no noise and binding. I guess the flange has just enough flex when being torque down that it must just flex enough to cause the binding. it is a very simple job besides that little problem. the shop book says nothing about the seal install and I did it the usual way which is wrong. now anybody looking to do the bearing replacement make sure the seal is all the way in and you should be fine. thanks again for the great help. kully

I am going to put the shaft out again and measure the b spacer and start from there. it did look good and not egged or crushed but I will measure it and see where it is at. thanks

I do have a 20 -ton press and I did use to install the outer bearing. the inner bearing I set it in with a socket and hammer and I did make sure it was installed correctly and not crooked.

thanks Zed Head for the help! but I am still confused about the torque range. I will put out the stub axle again and measure the b spacer distance and it should be 52.5mm - 52.56mm long. if is to long will I have to have a machine shop cut it down? now the 3.9" point is measured from where? the mistake I might have made was I did install the inner seal first and then I install the stub axle nut and tried to torque it down . maybe I should take the seal out and torque it down and then remove the nut and install a new seal and nut again? well like you said it also could be dragging against the bearing .

I was installing new rear axle bearing in my 1974 260z today with the Skf 116 and 117 bearings, all went well until the torque specs. I have the b spacers in there and the factory shop manual states to torque from 180-220' pounds of torque. the preload says 3.9 -inch pounds which does not make sense. but in the factory book under the torque specs section, it says 90-120' pounds. now when I did reach 60' pounds on the driver side axle it was getting hard to spin. I also used the zx rear stub axle nut that does not use the crimp as the early z do. I did try with and without the stub axle washer and as I thought it did not make a difference. is there something I am doing wrong? could it be the Skf bearings? I did use a micro digital gauge and measured the old outer bearing to the new Skf outer bearing, and it was .005" smaller than the Skf bearing. any thoughts thank you Kully

I guess maybe I will leave them alone if that is the way they are. just point the brass down a little more. thanks

I am not sure if the 260 has the eyeball for adjustment. I just bend the brass nozzle, so it hits the windshield in the middle when driving. last summer I had to take the z in to the transmission shop for a tail shaft bushing and seal replacement. when I was driving there to the shop, I did use the washer and my wife was behind me laughing as it sprayed over the roof and was barely hitting the windshield. I would say half on the windshield and half over the roof. I guess it is winter so something to do on the z. I only see the one small hole in the end of the nozzle. is there supposed to be something in there?

well now, it has been some years since I used the washer in my 260z. mine sprays like a hose, are these supposed to spray in a spray pattern or like a hose. thanks again

your float setting is off .

these green led bulbs are about the same brightness as when I did install the 4w incandescent ones 20 years ago. just green in color to match the lens in the gauge, and the dimmer works the same.

yes, the dimmer does work

hi Steve, yes those are the ones, and bright thanks

well, I did finish the speedo and tach with the non -polarity type led bulbs and all is working. if anybody is going to do the upgrade with the leds for the gauges it seems that the non- polarity is a must. thanks for all the help

yes, I did order 22.5mm long. there was not many to choices in the green color from what I can see, and a few were not dimmable. the Keiurot brand were the only one on amazon that were non polarized and dimmable besides the one I found on the superbright web site.

I did find the brand Keiurot brand on amazon with different colors. I did order the green color they are non -polarity so they should work cheaper than superbright with the prime shipping. they have some good reviews so time will tell.

thanks for the help, but I did start with the green color so I would not have to remove the lens. but I did just find on super bright web site the non- polarized green led replacements. I will look around a little more before I order. when I do install the new led bulb, I will let everybody know how I made out with the install. I really find it hard to believe Nissan would wire the speedo gauge in reverse, that just does not make any sense. thanks

I did just check and the ba9s led bulbs that I am using are polarity sensitive. I will need to look into a non-sensitive green led bulb if there are any out there to be had. like steve said the last 2 are in the speedo and must be wired backwards. good call steve . thanks kully

thanks for the help, but with only being able to work from under the dash because of the dash cover it might be almost impossible to change the sockets. I did use your suggestion steve on the auxito h4 headlight bulbs with great success and I did change all the rest to led bulbs with no problem, except I did leave the turn signals original.

hi Steve, I did some research and read you reviews on the led bulb, and I did order the same ones that you used from amazon the green duabhoi brand. and I did not find them polarity sensitive.

thanks zed head, I know there is no flasher. if there was one, they would most likely just stay on all the time and not blink. I did get down to 2 -3w bulbs left and changed 1 of the 2 to the led type and then the dash lights went out! so I installed the old bulb in the same socket and bingo they all came back on!

the 260z sockets have its own ground wire. I changed the 3 smaller gauges with no problem to led bulbs. and no problem with them working and dimming. I managed to remove the tach sockets from under the dash and when I installed the first led, it was working but when I installed the second led bulb nothing. I did have only 1 bulb working in the speedo as the bottom bulb was not working. I did try to bypass the dimmer with a jumper and nothing. but I did manage to change the bad bulb in the speedo that was not working but I went back to the 4w bulb. I would have thought with the low power draw from the leds that bypassing the dimmer would have worked. thanks for the help so far.

thanks I did get them out but when I changed to led they will not light because of the low power draw . any why to bypass the dimmer?

I am trying to change the bulbs on the speedo meter and the tach meter and I have a dash cover, so I can't remove the guage. but I removed the center dash where the flip down light is and removed the heater flex hose. and now can reach the sockets but do they just pull out or twist out? thanks