kully 560

thanks Zed Head for the help! but I am still confused about the torque range. I will put out the stub axle again and measure the b spacer distance and it should be 52.5mm - 52.56mm long. if is to long will I have to have a machine shop cut it down? now the 3.9" point is measured from where? the mistake I might have made was I did install the inner seal first and then I install the stub axle nut and tried to torque it down . maybe I should take the seal out and torque it down and then remove the nut and install a new seal and nut again? well like you said it also could be dragging against the bearing .

I was installing new rear axle bearing in my 1974 260z today with the Skf 116 and 117 bearings, all went well until the torque specs. I have the b spacers in there and the factory shop manual states to torque from 180-220' pounds of torque. the preload says 3.9 -inch pounds which does not make sense. but in the factory book under the torque specs section, it says 90-120' pounds. now when I did reach 60' pounds on the driver side axle it was getting hard to spin. I also used the zx rear stub axle nut that does not use the crimp as the early z do. I did try with and without the stub axle washer and as I thought it did not make a difference. is there something I am doing wrong? could it be the Skf bearings? I did use a micro digital gauge and measured the old outer bearing to the new Skf outer bearing, and it was .005" smaller than the Skf bearing. any thoughts thank you Kully

I guess maybe I will leave them alone if that is the way they are. just point the brass down a little more. thanks

I am not sure if the 260 has the eyeball for adjustment. I just bend the brass nozzle, so it hits the windshield in the middle when driving. last summer I had to take the z in to the transmission shop for a tail shaft bushing and seal replacement. when I was driving there to the shop, I did use the washer and my wife was behind me laughing as it sprayed over the roof and was barely hitting the windshield. I would say half on the windshield and half over the roof. I guess it is winter so something to do on the z. I only see the one small hole in the end of the nozzle. is there supposed to be something in there?

well now, it has been some years since I used the washer in my 260z. mine sprays like a hose, are these supposed to spray in a spray pattern or like a hose. thanks again

your float setting is off .

these green led bulbs are about the same brightness as when I did install the 4w incandescent ones 20 years ago. just green in color to match the lens in the gauge, and the dimmer works the same.

yes, the dimmer does work

hi Steve, yes those are the ones, and bright thanks

well, I did finish the speedo and tach with the non -polarity type led bulbs and all is working. if anybody is going to do the upgrade with the leds for the gauges it seems that the non- polarity is a must. thanks for all the help

yes, I did order 22.5mm long. there was not many to choices in the green color from what I can see, and a few were not dimmable. the Keiurot brand were the only one on amazon that were non polarized and dimmable besides the one I found on the superbright web site.

I did find the brand Keiurot brand on amazon with different colors. I did order the green color they are non -polarity so they should work cheaper than superbright with the prime shipping. they have some good reviews so time will tell.

thanks for the help, but I did start with the green color so I would not have to remove the lens. but I did just find on super bright web site the non- polarized green led replacements. I will look around a little more before I order. when I do install the new led bulb, I will let everybody know how I made out with the install. I really find it hard to believe Nissan would wire the speedo gauge in reverse, that just does not make any sense. thanks

I did just check and the ba9s led bulbs that I am using are polarity sensitive. I will need to look into a non-sensitive green led bulb if there are any out there to be had. like steve said the last 2 are in the speedo and must be wired backwards. good call steve . thanks kully

thanks for the help, but with only being able to work from under the dash because of the dash cover it might be almost impossible to change the sockets. I did use your suggestion steve on the auxito h4 headlight bulbs with great success and I did change all the rest to led bulbs with no problem, except I did leave the turn signals original.

hi Steve, I did some research and read you reviews on the led bulb, and I did order the same ones that you used from amazon the green duabhoi brand. and I did not find them polarity sensitive.

thanks zed head, I know there is no flasher. if there was one, they would most likely just stay on all the time and not blink. I did get down to 2 -3w bulbs left and changed 1 of the 2 to the led type and then the dash lights went out! so I installed the old bulb in the same socket and bingo they all came back on!

the 260z sockets have its own ground wire. I changed the 3 smaller gauges with no problem to led bulbs. and no problem with them working and dimming. I managed to remove the tach sockets from under the dash and when I installed the first led, it was working but when I installed the second led bulb nothing. I did have only 1 bulb working in the speedo as the bottom bulb was not working. I did try to bypass the dimmer with a jumper and nothing. but I did manage to change the bad bulb in the speedo that was not working but I went back to the 4w bulb. I would have thought with the low power draw from the leds that bypassing the dimmer would have worked. thanks for the help so far.

thanks I did get them out but when I changed to led they will not light because of the low power draw . any why to bypass the dimmer?

I am trying to change the bulbs on the speedo meter and the tach meter and I have a dash cover, so I can't remove the guage. but I removed the center dash where the flip down light is and removed the heater flex hose. and now can reach the sockets but do they just pull out or twist out? thanks

with my auto tranny in drive it does shift quick from 1st -2nd gear, it is when going from 2nd -3rd gear with light throttle its lazy. now with more throttle the lazy shift is gone. these trannys also shift from 1st -2nd gear quite fast like about 7-9 mph into 2nd gear. I would like it to stretch out a little further if this shift kit would do that. but now if I whale the car and want the rpms to reach 5500 I would need to shift manually. I have been having a problem with this tranny in the last 2 months that the rear tail shaft seal is leaking tranny oil. I did change the seal twice and resealed the drive shaft yoke which helped. but it still drips several drops of oil when I park the car in the garage overnight. the transmission store it my town thinks it could be the inner tail shaft seal or possible a clog vent. but if it is the inner seal the tranny will have to come out to remove the tail shaft and change the inner seal. that is why if the tranny has to be taken out, I might as well install the kit. but I also don't want to build too much pressure and have another leak also. I can't find out how much more pressure we are talking about. I would ask the shop owner, but they closed this week for a vacation.

I did see the utube video, but it was only pictures. I did read some were that the holes in the valve body had to be installed or made bigger, but I did not see that in the utube pictures. I will have to do more looking on that forum for some more info. I am a little nervous about the holes because once that is done, I can't go back. tim did say that the kit is now for the 3 speeds jatco trannys. he does offer a little softer spring like I guess a stage 2 vs a stage 3 spring. now the reason I am looking for more info is because I really do not want real hard shifting. he did suggest the stage 3 for a street car but would like to here from other folks that did the install . thanks for the info . kully

thank you for the info, I will check on that site

I was just thinking of installing a shift kit in my 280zx automatic tranny and see that a person in Australia has them for sale. has anybody installed a shift kit and how do you like it. I can't find any reviews online. thanks

yes, the connection at the top of the filler neck does drain into the reservoir tank! I was hoping it was not clogged for you. maybe the line is plugged from the water-rust. but like I was saying I can't draw vacuum from front to back until the car is hot, that I can't understand. I am glad that it looks like your problem is solved!!