kully 560

I do not know why I can't blow back to the vapor tank also from where the canister is at all on my 260z. [hot or cold] but I can only suck air when after the car was just driven. I did check for pressure at the gas cap, and I do not have any at all. I know you are not running the canister, but you think the line is plugged? I guess what I am saying is mine seems to not flow back from the canister at all anytime. but when the car is hot it will flow air from the vapor tank to the canister. [only when hot] now in the fsm it only shows an orifice in the line from vapor tank to canister not a 1-way valve. did you happen to try on the gas filler neck just below the gas cap and blow air back to the vapor tank? I am also trying to understand this flow thing that I have as compared to yours. it seems that mine is working correctly and only flows when needed. I never looked into the top of the vapor tank to see if there is a build in check valve for a 1- way vapor flow. I am looking forward to the results from when you cut the line. that should tell all.

if this helps, this morning I removed the vent line from the vapor tank, and I could not suck any air through the line. I guess because the car sat overnight, so today I drive the car and when I turned off the engine, I removed the vapor line at the canister and was able to suck air through the line.

I seem to remember some were way back then, that I also did want to get rid of the carbon canister. I was told never to do that because for a reason I can't remember that the car will never run right. as far as fuel pumps goes. I use a low- pressure carter at the back of the car with no pressure regulator on the return line and I have 3.42 lbs at the carbs. try to keep thing simple.

I have a 1974 260z and I check the fsm-ef32 and ef33. on my car the vent line from the vapor tank above the fuel tank goes to the front canister on the passenger side. there is an orifice built into the hard steel line that when I removed the hose from the canister, I can't blow back to the vapor tank but can suck air from there. I believe that will stop pressure going back to the vapor tank/ fuel tank .

I have a 74 and no check valve, and no pressure at all. it could be a clog return line

I have been though several electric fans setups, and I did try the relay with a several brand cooling switchs at several times and they are not at all accurate. if you look in the electrical section on this site I did just install a davies craig fan controller with great success. I at one time use a flex-a lite 14" fan with the old radiator and now with the new champion radiator I have a 13" spal fan. the spal fan has a lot more air flow then the other fan . [power]

I just installed this controller today and works great with the electric fan. I installed the sensor in the thermostat cover, I did install the controller in a weatherproof plastic box in the engine compartment. this model came with the 1/4" npt sensor and also the radiator probe sensor. I only used the 1/4" npt sensor. it will turn on at your set temp and then off 5 degrees lower.it does seem off by 6 degrees, as I have it set at 183 degrees for on and off is 178 degrees. that is comparing with a digital thermometer in the top of the radiator. it can be adjusted from 110 degrees to 230 degrees by 1 degree increments. I can see when the water pump is at full flow in the top of the radiator and that seems to be 183 degrees with a 180 Nissan thermostat. I also install the override switch to manual turn on the fan. it seems to have the same ratings but more user reviews then digital dakota . it is also made down under . I drove the car today and the temps were in the lower 70s and the fan never turn on unless I sat idling for 3-4 minutes after a long drive. it seems to be doing what it was designed to do. hopes this help anybody looking for a decent fan controller.

I think the one on the left is the interlock relay but the other 2 are unknow

I am now looking to clean up the engine bay, and I have what looks like 3 relays mounted on the firewall. they are behind the glove box. the car is an early 1974 datsun 260z. I would like to get rid of them if they are not need. thanks

nice thanks for the photos

looks good what are you going to control with the switch

here is a pictured of the 2 gang rocker switch . captain obvious how did you make out with the same project?

yes, I think they look great to. I also see you have to hole between the rear defogger and the seat belts light. I plan to install a small led pilot in that location to let me know the cooling fan is running. I am planning to wire it off of the manual bypass switch for the fan.

I think cutting the hole should be no problem with patience. the switch does have over lapping sides for the clips to hold and I will probably beef up the oem plate from the underside with a plastic plate. maybe cut down on the clips [shorter]and glue the bottom plate on to the oem plate before cutting for switch size. it was all that I could find in that size for a 2 gang switch, the rest well full size or single mini switches. I thought about the round rocker switch but if this 2 gang is done right it might look the best for what is out there to buy.

thanks for the help zed head, I hope I did it the right way!

I chased for years with the same problem. I also did the Technototytunning tension rods and there front adjustable lower control arms . mine was more of speeds around 65mph was the worst. the only shake I get now is when the car sits to long [ like 1-2 months sitting ] then I will need to warm up the tires for 2-3 miles then it is perfect. the tires must get a flat spot after sitting for a while. as I found out any thing that shakes or has play will effect it. I spent several years chasing that problem, changing and replacing all those parts until 1 day I was under the car and saw that little bubble of under coating down under the drivers seat. it was a 6" x6" rust starting and weaken the floor board. since I change that whole floor board things are perfect now. but like you ever part I changed was for the better and I can not tell you how many alignments and balancing jobs I had done . do not give up you will find it and then you will say $^!# that was it .

well, I have been looking around captain obvious and found a 2 gang rocker switches panel mounted. the web site is parts express and the product # is 069-226. they are rated 12v/125v at 10amp.so for 12v purpose I would have no problem with them controlling relays. I did measure the console in the car where the blank plate is. it looks close to removing the 2 raised portions that represent each switch. that would give it a cleaner look and the rockers are black with white symbols. I am going to order 2, 1 for a spare as they are on clearance and they are the only switches I can find molded together and mini size. let me know what you think .

I really like to keep the stock lights and stuff. I was taking some measurements for the defogger switch in the large location as I have a spare center console in storage. it will clip in a little different as far as the support [snap in]. I was looking at round rocker switches this morning and thought installing 2 in the blank location. 1 for the fog lights and 1 for the electric fan override switch. that blank plastic filler cover has raised edges to look like the switch. I also was looking at a 2 gang rocker switches that are panel mounted. but so far I can not seem to find the size that is needed. I measured the opening in the spare console and it is 1-7/8" long buy 1-7/16" wide. I am going to find something I just need to spend the extra time on the internet. I will post what I have come up with also .

I had the same problem like you, and I did change ever thing from rack, to struts, to bushings, tie rods, and even springs. it turn out my drivers side floor board was week with some rot starting and since I replace the floor pan the car is perfect now!!!

thanks for the answer, it will be controlling a relay so there will be no load on the switch. I was also thinking the switch will fit the length and I will just have to cut the width on the blank plastic plate. it will be about as original as I can get.

I guess I will have to do what s30 driver suggested and fab something up with a Dremel tool. thanks

I found a 1974 260z rear defogger switch for sale but I am not sure and even the seller was not helpful if it will work for the fog lights. I do not know if it is just a switch or if it has maybe a built in resistor?

hi Steve I am not sure on the signature but all the info on my car is under my name kully560. the car is a 1974 datsun 260z early production date 8/1974

the car is a 1974 datsun 260z early production date 8/1974