Cethern

Maybe this will help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcI0IZg9RuY&feature=youtube_gdata_player"]http:// https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcI0IZg9RuY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Uploading these from a phone sucks

Okay I took a couple of pictures, I went over everything again, I can pull the distributor out and spin it by hand and get the coil to fire, I even got it to turn the motor over a little bit while spinning the shaft. Yesterday while doing the same thing I would ground the distributor to the intake, in doing this it would spark while turning the shaft. But after I would install the distributor I couldn't get any spark. So I made a ground wire from the adapter bolt to the module bolt. Even though everything was clean it didn't get a good ground. I'm using the adapter from the junk yard distributor. The shaft on that distributor is frozen in place. I probably should have gotten a rebuilt distributor. And if I can get it running and get myself back to Colorado I'll do just that.

SteveJ I'll try and answer your questions. 1, I knew that the blue wire went to the - side of the coil and to the ecu & tach. 2, I got the ZX distributor off ebay and one from a junk yard, the one I'm using is the ebay one. 3, The ZX distributor I'm using is a working unit, before I installed it I could spin the shaft by hand and get spark from the coil wire also number one plug which is where I had the timing light hooked up to, and got the car to run on what little gas I could get into the intake. 4, Yes I have a copy of the FSM for the 1975 280Z and a copy of the Fuel Injection "Bible" 5, No offense taken you don't know me, and having been a Service Manager, a GM line mechanic, and turning wrenches for most of my life, I can read and understand a wiring diag, the problem is that some of the diagrams don't have the wire colors or I cannot get them to focus when I zoom in. 6, I installed a Accel coil. 7, No, none of the wires are grounded and are taped up. I hope that answers your questions. :-)

I didn't have a ground wire at the distributor originally, so to get the ZX to work I ran a ground wire from the adapter bolt to a screw on the module. At first I was leaving the blue wire off to just make sure the ZX worked, but when I went to hook it up, I was getting like a strange feedback of sorts, it was sparking without the motor turning over, which could of been because I hadn't disconnected the module inside the car. I have since disconnected the module from inside the car. Since I know the ZX dizzy will work alone, but not with the ecm, or maybe it will and something else is interfering is what I need to find.

Believe it or not, but I've spent a lot of time reading both of them. One day I'll have to get a good wiring diag with more detail. I thought I was on the right track with replacing the dizzy, after it ran, but now I'm back where I started from.

Zed Head, I checked the voltage at the red and green wires in the dizzy but I didn't pull anything else apart, the cap and rotor look good, but are used (the local parts place didn't have a new one) SteveJ I agree clip leads would be handy, I'll take some pictures when I get home from work tomorrow.

I checked the voltage with it in the key in the run position, I don't have a helper at the moment. I was getting it to run on gas that I got into the intake, at that time I had left off the blue wire for because I wasn't getting any spark with it hooked up. As far as I can tell it's hooked up as it is on Blue's setup.

SteveJ I thought you had found the missing link. The 75 is just a little bit different than the 77 my condenser is mounted next to the coil, I just made a jumper with a bullet connector and a eyelet, which is probably why I didn't use the black and blue wire to begin with. I wish I had a second set of hands to hold the key in the start position to check the voltage on that black and blue wire, but it should be the right one.

I only had the one black and blue wire,..... I well I went hooked it to the +side, and no change, it almost fires up, timing light still doesn't light up either. And I was so close. Thanks again for the help

I'm not sure how I would of done that, I used the 12v black with white wire from the + side of the ballast resistor and put it on the + of the coil, I also put the condenser on there and the brown wire from the module. On the - side of the coil I put the blue wire from the module, and the solid blue wire from the ballast resistor, I didn't use any of the other wires on the ballast.

I hadn't SteveJ, but I just went out and did that, now it tries to start but it won't, the timing light won't light up now, I'm still getting spark from the coil which is a good thing.

A update on my issue, I put in a ZX dizzy following Blues tips, and to get it to fire I have to disconnect the blue wire for the ecm only then will the car run and that's with the help of starting fluid. I'm so tired of this fuel injection, if I had a carb setup handy I would install it in a heartbeat.

I'll test the old sending unit this weekend, and find that fb group surprised that I'm not a member of it anyway, I am thinking that something in the ignition has gone south, yesterday I shot some starting fluid into the air filter and it wouldn't fire, which could be why I wasn't getting the new timing light to light up. This weekend I'll recheck the timing marks on the chain, the cap, rotor and wires are good, plugs are new and gapped at 40. It could be a good time to upgrade the ignition. I pulled out some fuel from the tank thinking that there might be water in the fuel but it looked okay.

I did check it at the time it was around 5deg outside and I got resistance in the number range that they had in the book, also the sending unit is new the pig tail connectors I made sure were clean. But I'll recheck it just to make sure.

Zed Head, that is an interesting idea. I have thought of taking some video to give you and some friends an idea of what I'm seeing.

Zed Head, yes I took resistance measurements, they were within spec as per the manual. SteveJ, thanks for the info, there is continuity, I put a 9 volt battery to the terminals and was able to get both coils to click, I would take that as a good sign that the coils are not stuck closed. As of now the car barely runs if you can call it that, and is back firing out the exhaust, I picked up a timing light and haven't gotten the damn thing to light up to even see if the timing is off, but if I pull the plug and hold it about. 1/2 in away it will bridge the gap. Thanks again for the help

I'm limited on resources with having to use a tablet not a lot of room data wise. With the battery connected the fuel pump runs, even with the ignition unplugged, the only way to get to shut down is to unplug the fuel relay, which is why I changed it out, and knowing that a bad water temp sending unit can cause some fine systems to run rich and being at the parts store for the plugs is why I changed it. I hate changing parts without knowing what the problem is, but nothing is standing out as the problem. After going through the test list in FI Bible the only thing that didn't pass is the #1 cylinder and #2 didn't show battery voltage at the ecu, I took a 9volt battery to the injectors all of which clicked open and close, I'm almost wondering if it is a ignition issue as now it's started to backfire out the exhaust, after that I checked the timing marks on the chain and cam, I will most likely pull the dizzy and check it.

I'm kinda surprised of the lack of suggestions, but anyway I ran through the list of tests from the FI Bible, the only thing that showed up was a problem with 1 & 2 injectors when checking for voltage. I don't see how that would cause it to run so rich, also I'm still trying to find out where the fuel pump is getting it's power from.

I'm at my wits end with my 75 280. On Friday I noticed the fuel pump wouldn't shut off with the key, then shortly after that it started running super rich and rough. at first I thought fouled plugs, before I did anything I looked for vacuum leaks, lose wires anything out of place. Then I did some searching on here and the Web, nothing I read fit so anyway I changed the plugs, water temp sending unit, fuel pump, and the ignition coil. I switched out the fuel pump relay as well. All cylinders are getting spark. I'm limited to just a few hand tools as most are still in Colorado. Until Friday the car was running fine. Thanks in advance for suggestions and ideas. Eric

On my 73 I have 225/60/r14 in the front and 235/60/r14 in the rear On my 75 I have 215/60/r14 all around. The 235's fit well and has of yet no rubbing

I love that Z, When you started posting about it is just about the time when I found my 73 and the benchmark for mine but with the stripes

Here is a IMSA Monza There was a street version as well.

For me I like the stripes, When I save enough coin to do the body and paint on my 73 I will have the stripes as well. This is a picture on Grandpa as he is today. Low miles now at 71k everything but the clock works, AC, Radio and such, He still needs a lot of work but over all I'm very happy.

I agree it will be a long pull but worth it. If you haven't seen much of the track here is a link with a rFactor view http://www.drivingforcemotorsports.com/hpr.htm Eric