Cethern

This was taken from The BSP rules. 15.9 PARA C C. Relocation of the battery or batteries is permitted but not into the passenger compartment. If the battery is relocated and the original battery tray can be removed by simply unbolting it, the tray may be removed, or relocated with the battery. Holes may be drilled for mounting or passage of cables. Longer cables may be substituted to permit relocation. The number of battery or batteries may not be changed from stock. The area behind the rearmost seat is not considered to be within the passenger compartment. The area under the rearmost seat is considered to be within the passenger compartment. This was taken from Page 28 15) Any wet-cell battery moved from the manufacturer’s original location shall be in a non-conductive marine-type container or equivalent, and the hot terminal shall be insulated. All batteries (on-board power supplies) shall be attached securely to the frame or chassis structure independent of the marine-type container. NOTE: This will allow the use of gel cell or dry cell (AGM) batteries without a non-conductive marine-type container where applicable. Hope that helps Eric

It should be ok. If you go with a Gell type battery like Optima I don't think you need a box...I would have to go back and read SCCA's rule on that though to be sure. What type of racing are you going to do?

When I changed mine out I also changed the front springs and shocks. Added a ST swaybar. along with the bushings. the only thing I have not changed out is the lower control arm bushings and ball joints but thats coming. The first run around the block was like a different car I like the feel. Yes I do feel more of the road but not so much that I mind. My 76 is all stock and I can't wait to upgrade the bushing on it as well.

When I did the rack I had more of a problem those bushing than the coupler. I thought I had the wrong ones and bought a different set only to find out I had the right set to being with... The coupler was done without to much of a hassel and with the rack bolted up. And don't think that even if there is eight holes in that thing that they all will work. I had the coupler in only to have to pull it out and move the sleves (sp) over one hole to get everything to bolt up.

The booster looks good, Now that green you found...well..... I wish I could get that car. I'm still working on it. Seeing how it sat for so long did you have any problems with the engine smoking a lot?

Personaly I like the BRE Spook as well. Now if someone would make one for a 280 I'd be happy.... The MSA type 3 is not bad either.

Fortunate Wheels. 11190 West Alameda Lakewood Co 80226 The man you need to talk with is Bob Bush 303-798-9822

There is a shop here in Denver that has a set of 14x7's slots he was asking 250/300 they are in good shape from the ones I looked at.

E racer1999 That mite work. I have a heat gun but I would like to try it on something different before I took it to the covers..

That sounds like a great JY deal. And those numbers are real good. I need to go with flat top pistons someday or go with a turbo.

Duffman I have a set of those and the fit is not that great. Over time it seems to have gotten a little better, Or maybe I have got used to the fit. But you do have to look at them close to see where the gasket does not fit real tight. Eric

I know "they say" but this is the second FI car that has had the same problem the other was a Holly Projection system I had on a 76 FJ-40 with a 400sbc. in both cars there is a lot of heat. When the cruiser would vapor lock I would open the inlet fuel line and most of what would come out would be what seemed to be air but is the gas vapor. The way I have used the fans in cooling off the fuel rail does help or at lest I think it does. I do see a difference in the way things get started without the blower. Now there could be a check valve that is not holding line pressure It must be by the fuel dampener (sp) Unless it is part of the fuel pump and now that I think about it I have a spare pump in my 76 that I just got, I'll get out and take a good look at it.

Madkaw I have pretty much the same headers as you, and the clamps that Marty posted are the ones I plan to use when I get around to installing my headers. I feel they will make for a cleaner install. I like how you did the system. for me a pair of supertraps coming out where the BRE's did in the center would look kinda cool..

I have the same problem the local Z tech told me it is a check valve by the fuel pump not holding line pressure. But it sure feels like a vapor lock problem to me. The blower motor helps right now mine is set to come on with the ign key goes to run. A friend thought it may help to run a hot wire to the pump with a switch so I could get some cooler fuel though the system before I start it. Here is a pic as to how the blower mounts to the motor.

Ramses That link came from a Picasa site that I have some pic's on I should move them to my photobucket album I guess

Good idea Gary The first time I ran it down the block I could not see behind me because of the smoke... I ran it today I'm not sure if it was any better but that was not very far or for very long. I need to find a place where I can let it run for while before it gets on the road for very long. In the mean time I'll put some ATF in the holes and flush the engine before I change the oil. In case this all fails I have a N-42 head that I'm thinking real hard about putting on.... Thank you Beandip

When I went to put new lights in my 75 I found that I could not get to the three screws that hold the light in. What I did was use my Roto Zip and put a little notch so I could get to the screws.

It look's great! The only thing I see that could be a pain is if you have to take out the tranny the exhaust system will have to come out. Maybe a one or two flanges would help.

I bought a 76 280 that had been sitting for a while, When I went and looked at it I got it to run but with a miss. When I went to drag it home it ran worse. So after I got it home the next day I did a compresson test it has 130psi with one cylc at 135psi I put some old plugs I had laying around re-checked the firing order and plug wires and cap and rotor. When I started it ran on all 6 but the smoke was really bad when I drove it down the street. Now this could be from sitting for such a long time. Today I put my vacume gauge on the the motor and it held steady at 15 for this Alt. that is not bad. My thinking is the oil is coming from old valve seals. The exhaust does not smell like old gas like it did when I first looked it. I wish I had a leak down tester. So anybody have any thoughts as to the smoke? Heck if your in Denver stop by and take a look.. Thanks Eric

Tony I stopped by Bob's shop it's called Fortunate Wheelz 303-798-9822. He says the tank needs the pickup screen taken off so that would need a hole cut in the tank to get to that. anyway he wants 100.00 as it sits or 250.00 ready to go. Oh would you have a good brake booster for a 75/76? Eric

When I got my 280 there was a cheep muffler that leaked and we all know where that goes :eek: One day I stopped at a muffler shop and had them put a side by side Resonator with the stock pre-muffler. I like the sound to me it sounds like a European car. I see that JC Wintney has some up to 2 1/2 inlet.

In the overall pic it sounds like a ok deal just about everything you brought up is something you can replace. I think with a car that is as old as that one the rust is a bigger issue and being up where is seems to rain 364.5 days of the year would have me looking all over the car for rust. Now if you has some pic's to show us there are ppl on this board that know a lot more than I. And there are more than a few members in your area. Lastly welcome to Classic Z cars...now post some pic's of your 240 Eric

The price is right, the motor is clean. But it's to far away...

Yes there is some old gas in the system it smokes maybe that will clear up. The tail pipe ends under the rear 1/4panel and the smoke filled the car up so that there was smoke coming out the side vents. My first thought was a "Up in Smoke" movie. But for about 350.00 not a bad deal over all. I'll get it home and check the compresson and see where I'am on the miss it has a N-42 Block and head I have a good head and a few other parts laying around to get it up and running. I wonder if the paint will buff out..

I found this on Craigs list in the barter area. It needs a lot of TLC but the floors and the frame are in good shape better than my 75. The guy I got it from said it has not run in 5 or 6 yrs. He could not get it run after he put a new clutch and injectors in. I got it to run after I covered a big hole in the boot between the AFM and TB it has a miss but she runs. Over all it will be a good project. In the pic's you'll see the hood is off the car before I left I put that back on I'm going back up to empire to drag it home this weekend.