240ZGL

Sorry if your post got a bit off track, as for the car in those pics. We all see rust, not a good repaint and a lot of clean up that might turn into a lot of work. The owner has not presented this car very well, sorry to the owner. Remember, don't buy the first one you see, the right one for you and your wallet will show itself. My search took about a year, but I ended up with a one owner, perfect body car that just needed the mechanical stuff redone. I was looking for a good resto project and found it when the time was right.

"and the fact that it's a 73" Whats wrong with a 73. If your looking for a collector car then the very early number cars are what you want. Aside from that a 73 is no worst than a 70,71 or 72. Most 73's have done the early carb swap, and a 73 is still a 240z, with lots of the bugs worked out.

The SK manifold uses a 3/8 or 10mm rod, the towers are cast as part of the manifold. These things are rare to find so cutting them up to mickey a fix would be a big no. Sanyo knew what they were doing when they made them, so what ever it takes to piece together or copy is in my plans. The Mikuni manifold is the same thing as the SK. I know I'm running Dell's on this one, but if I find a set of SK's or Mik's I will grab them if I have the cash. If I can't find them, well the Dell's were good enough for Big Sam, so enough said there.

The linkage kits for the SK manifold are tough to come by. I have the SK sports kit manifold. The regular linkage arms do not fit as they are to small in diameter. If you by one of these manifolds, make sure you get all the arms. I bought a kit from a guy on E-bay for triple Dell's and it does not work. At this time, I am going to have to make my own arms.

First off, is it an exhaust manifold or a tube header ? You said it's leaking around the bolt hole, which one ? You have the bolts that mount to the head and the bolts down at the collector that the exhaust pipe mounts to. A manifold is going to be cast iron, a header is going to be steel tubes.

Then you end up with a 260 maybe a 270 if you push it. If you have to have 50's on the street, you should look at doing a 3.1. It cost a lot more to build a motor to fit the carbs than it would to by carbs to fit your motor.

Ya, 50's are way too big for the street. You won't have anything to work with till you get up around 5000 rpm. I'm doing a L24 with flat tops, stage 1 cam, head work and large valves, exhaust, and triple 40's. Should make for a good street motor on the weekends. 50's would blow the whole package.

Fujitsubo has the copy of the Datsun comp. header. I have an original set. The center carb runs very close to the tubes if your using a short Mikuni manifold. If you have the Mikuni's or Dellorto's they have a bottom accelerator pump, so a heat shield is out of the question because you have to bend it around the tubes. If you have the Cannon manifold, you might be able to get away with it. I'm doing a ceramic coat and wrapping the two center tube for the first 12". I have the MSA header too. That one has plenty of bend in it to fab a nice heat shield. The Cannon manifold is about an inch longer. If you running Webers, they have a bottom mount heat shield you can buy for each carb.

I got a set from him, there nice. Of course he can't build an exact set to run perfect on your engine, that has to be done in tuning with a running engine. He will be very close. This guy is considered to be one of the best.

Not everyone can own a classic Z. You don't go to your local car dealer and throw down or away your money on a copy of what the dealer next door has for sale. I think those classic Z's for sale should have a sticker on the window that says, Some assembly required. Being able to build it and show what your capable of doing is why I own mine.

I can verify that the JDM header that looks like the one NZeder has, does fit a left hand car. I have one of the steel ones and although it will scrape the steering shaft going in, once it's there it fit's great. It is a bit close to the torsion rod mount, but a small heat shield should help.

I've been working on my linkage too. The arms for the butterflies look a bit short. You have a near vertical stroke from arm to arm, that could be binding. You want some angle pushing down and out.

Interior is not even close, dash cap come-on, rusted exhaust, I would hate to see what the motor looks like, rusted wheel arches, 29 thou. miles I doubt it. Someones going to get bit

Sorry, But if your going to be rattling windows with that thing I would mount it somewhere in your garage.

I'm doing a triple setup and plan on running the return line. I'm running a high volume low pressure pump and putting the regulator on the return line. That should keep the carbs full at high RPM and regulated at low rpm.

Makes me wonder what mine is worth.

70Z4fun, I have one of those meg setups.

It's a rear section with two flanges that end just under and behind the diff. I did a second rear section with mufflers that bolts right in. Takes about 20 min. to change. The picture is of the dual megs.

This is my show setup. I can swap the rear section with twin glass packs mufflers for street use. This is a true two pipe setup from the headers. This rear section is real NOS from the 70's and has never been fired. Not yet anyway.

I too hate the idea of drilling the sheet metal. On my daily driver I installed a rear spoiler about a year ago. I used the 3m body tape. It's 2 sides and once it's on, it's part of the car. The spoiler does great, I can feel the rear planting itself at around 70. The badge holes could be plugs with some rubber type caps. and then painted. I got the tape at a local auto paint house.

What size and which tire. I have a set of sport 205's on my daily driver, There a bit harsh on the ride but they sure grip.

I'm going out there to pick up a set and see what other goodies I can buy.

Well, this is what I have come up with. At the carb base, I have bent the shield up under and behind the manifold flanges to stop heat transfer to the back of the carbs. I had to keep some space under the carbs due to the accelerator pumps. The shield mounts off the bottom carb studs. I did this one out of stainless and I might add a thin ceramic insulator pad to the bottom side of the shield.

Hey thanks Jerry, it's such a simple looking piece. I've been over thinking this. Most triple owners should be interested in seeing this.

I'm going with the Dellorto's which have the accelerator pump on the bottom of the carbs, there lever operated. So the problem is to keep heat soak to a minimum. I like the idea of a thermal blacket on the bottom side or in a sandwitch of thin alloy. That along with insulating mounts between the manifold and the carbs should do the trick.