240ZGL

Hey thanks Jerry, it's such a simple looking piece. I've been over thinking this. Most triple owners should be interested in seeing this.

I'm going with the Dellorto's which have the accelerator pump on the bottom of the carbs, there lever operated. So the problem is to keep heat soak to a minimum. I like the idea of a thermal blacket on the bottom side or in a sandwitch of thin alloy. That along with insulating mounts between the manifold and the carbs should do the trick.

I'm doing a triple carb set up and need to fab a heat shield for them. Does anyone have a pic of an unmounted heat shield tray type so I can see how it attaches. Thanks:alien:

I don't want to see a new version of my 240Z. My feeling is, do you want something anyone can have or do you want something that will take some effort to get and hang on to.

Hey, Thanks Arne

Anyone out there have a set of rear Red Koni struts for a 73 Z pn. 82r-1812. I'm looking for a set even if I have to rebuild them. Let me know. zgl240@verizon.net Thanks

Hey, from Long Beach

I've been looking at this very same problem. I'm going triples on my 2.4. The manifold is drilled and tapped at every runner, I think to make use of carb sticks, the mercury vacume tube set up for balancing mulit carbs like on motorcycles. If I were to link these vacume ports together would I get the same result as the vacume setup off a regular carb set up?

Got any Red Koni rear struts? I'm also looking for Weber type carb spacers. Thanks

I was just thinking about this today while wreanching on the 240. I have to say the head design. Datsun ran into problems with fuel vaporizing and came up with all sorts of things to fix it. Covered the fuel lines, heat shields, electric pumps, and cut a hole in the hood and cover it with a weird fiberglass vent. Why didn't they just redesign the head and make it into a crossflow. The carbs and the lines would be out of the heat on the other side of the motor and power would have jumped up a bit. It would have looked great too. Aside from that, the water pump sucks.

Found this, might be usefull. I know what I'm going to do for a fuel http://www.racetep.com/webfuelspark.html#webfaq

If any company were to make them, they would do them for newer cars. These aftermarket companys, at least the ones that make quality stuff are not going to consider a 70's car, and the smaller specialty companys, like the ones who do 240z stuff just don't have the bucks to do a project where they will only sell a few hunderd units. Ever see a quality stainless steel exhaust system offered by any of the top exhaust companys, hell Nismo doesn't even have one for a 240-280z, why are there so few wheels that really fit a 240 unless you run adapters to make another spec work on yours.

The factory ones with the chrome trim, if you can find them, will run about $400+. The G-nose ones are near impossible to find and will bring near a grand. The chrome ring was made in a special press and Nissan does't do that anymore. The plexiglass has a smoothe contour to them like an XKE. The aftermarkets seam to have a n edge to them. I missed a set of factory ones about a year ago that went for around $400.

I'm in Long Beach, doing a full resto mod on my 240

Matching numbers are always a nice thing to have. I'm reworking my 2.4, I think it will be just fine and as all the others out there keep pulling those 2.4's out of there 240's and dropping in the 2.8's a real resto 240 will become harder to find. A 2.8 is nice to have but if you ever go to sell it, the original motor is worth more to a collector.

The one thing I'm looking into is the distributor. What will be the best set up to run since there is no vacume port to work the vacume advance.

I have been looking into this becuse I'm going with a set of 40's. The pump I'm looking for is 3 1/2 to 4 lbs, non-pulse type hi flow, about 50 to 70 gph. It will not need a reg which usually works by cutting down on the flow. Dellortos work best at 3 1/2 lbs of pressure.

I'm going Konis on all corners. Just got the fronts today. Rears should be no problem to find. I know there big bucks.

I came across this about an hour ago. Great place to get the factory part numbers and exploded views http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/index.pl?1:b:1

I'm wondering what those mags cost him.

U S wheels made theres with the center cap held on with screws also.

It's all in the muffles you use. The set up from MSA has a Y pipe that splits it into two pipes all the way back and dumps intp two glass packs. You can see to two glass packs in the photo under the car. The MSA twice pipes are loud. The megaphone set up was built by a company a long time ago and you will have to wait a long time to find one one these. If your going with headers then the single MSA set up is better as far as what your looking for. For me, I'm going to custom build the whole system myself. I want it right and I want it to show that some real work has gone into it.

I have a set of ceramic coated MSA headers. There real nice. One of the best headers I have seen. With the 3-2-1 set up you can do real dual exhaust. The 6-1 headers you would have to run a 1-2 y pipe. or just a single back. I want the duals all the back but I do everything the hard way. If your going with a stock motor then think about a stock system.

The problem with most muffler shops is they don't have a mandel bender, so a 2 1/4 pipe gets bent down to a 2 and it screws up the flow.. Here are the pics of that meg set up I got last night.

Thumbs up, The number one rule on my resto is that the original L24 block stays.