240ZGL

I'm running a Facet low pressure pump 2-4 psi. Works great, no regulators, no special fuel rail setups, no problems. It's the old Bendix type, that the factory copied when they needed a reliable pump. Triples really don't suckup that much fuel.

looks like a LaCarrera

You can pull them as a unit ( make sure the radiator is out ) or unbolt the trans and then block the front of the trans and pull the motor first.

Good, I hope they get them all, just more junk getting unloaded on this country. And please don't go crying that it's your right to upgrade your ride by installing cheap headlights off Ebay that blind oncoming traffic.

You might have to pull the head to check this but the water jackets run just below the exhaust ports. On my E88 head I had #6 water jacket that ate away at the exhaust port. I found a hole in the bottom of the port. You might try pulling the exhaust manifold and checking the floors of the ports.

Found this today. It's large but a good one to have in your files. http://oto.to/schematy/gazniki.pdf

Tried that which normally works for me, then went to the hand sledge and it still would not budge. It took the combination of heat and the long wrench that did the trick, but I think it was the heat.

Well I tried everything I could think of to get the diff plugs out to do a gear oil change. The drain would go with a 1/2" breaker bar but the fill plug was not going to budge. Today I stopped off and picked up a long 17 mm combo wrench at Sears and got home. Then while the diff was still hot I threw the rear end up on some jack stands and put the new wrench to work. With the rear end hot the plug took one good jolt and it was loose. So there is another trick to getting that darn plug loose. Just run it till it's nice and hot. Works great.

You mean that's not a super rare factory installed racing valve cover that can only had on Ebay. Gosh I thought my dream part had come true, my search was over, now I can go in peace.

Who is making an aluminum 240Z spoiler. I don't think either has the upper hand except the alloy one would be cheaper since your going to have to make this yourself, or maybe not.

I'm in if your doing these. just PM or E-me steve@p-t-s.com

In doing my system I found the lines to be 7mm. The 5/16 in some spots is just a tad too big, 8mm was too large also. I got hold of some braided 7mm and felt right. The Facet pump works great with triples, but I haven't found a need for a regulator. I run a single pump to the original fuel filter and then to the carbs. I'm working on a factory fuel rail copy at this time.

Complete motor is around 400 lbs

The splines are the to hold the stud in place, it's a tight fit that most every garage mech does with a hammer.

Ok, now what ?

Are the holes over sized, if so Pep Boys has a full collection of wheel studs on the floor. You could take the hub there and find studs with larger shanks.

A good gasket and a good torquing sequence is all you need. I've been involved with cars for over 50 yrs. and have found that if you do the job right with good parts and well prepped surfaces you will not have a problem. In other words, no you do not need some type of sealant.

I did mine about 6 month ago. I used the MSA kit and the MSA foam. It took about a day for each seat. The MSA foam is stiff stuff and it can be frustrating at times to get it just right but it does go together right. I did the passenger side without the new foam first and found the covers to go on real easy but the seat just felt mushy so I redid the seat with the new foam, then I did the driver side the next day. I also refinished the hardware and bought new clear plastic protectors. They look great and feel pretty good for that year seat. If stock is what you want then it's the only way to go.

MSA sells them now. I think I'm using an 81 unit 60amp and it works great. On the 73 you just need to deal with the fuel pump realy issue. It's and easy fix, some wire, a Bosch 20 or 30 amp relay and about 20 min.

The yelow power wire going to the relay needs to be cut, then put a Bocsh relay in line on that wire and trigger that relay with a power wire off the ON side of the ignition switch. Mine works great all automatic.

Cutting coils is never suggested, it's just wrong. Cutting coils will stiffen your springs too. 1 coil about 3/4 of an inch. You going to compensate for the longer passenger side front spring?

It's not fuel lines or the pump, it's running, on the choke. It's your carbs, probably got some junk in them. Clean the fuel bowls. Would be a good idea to clean the filter in the pump and change the fuel filters.

Are you looking for a free copy of the book that everyone eles has paid for ?

Water pump is new, coolant new, did not remove the radiator. I only have about 700 miles on the car since I put it back on the street. It has 6 yrs of work in it, most of that making sure that all the right pieces that should be new are new. Just wondering if anyone has had a bad clutch fan from Hayden. I know I'm going to take it back, it's not working as it should. I'm thinking that if I run into this problem with other clutches I should look into a shroud, only to cure what I have to live with.

Anyone have any problems with these. My original fan clutch gave out after just 239,000 miles. You would think the factory could do a better job than that. I bought a Hayden because I know there a good company with good stuff. I only changed the the fan clutch. This morning after a 15 min. run down the freeway, I pulled to a light and the temp gauge started to climb. This is the first time I have seen the gauge run past mid point. The rest of the system is good, new thermostat, housing, sender, fan belt, 4 core rad, hoses it's all good. The only thing I can think of is the fan is not spinning like it should. Maybe I need to look at a shroud.