240ZGL

My 73 was just silver zinc plated

My 4 speed has 235,000 miles on it, There is no record of a rebuild and I have every receipt that went into the car from new. I just refilled with 75-90 Purple and the damm thing shifts great and runs quite. Me likeeee this stuff.

My 73 has the electric pump mounting in the rear near the tank and the wiring is also there with the fuel level sender wires. I'm running a Facet low pressure pump, I had to cut the yellow wire going to the relay under the dash on the passenger side and then install a Bosch relay that is tripped from the on wire coming from the ignition switch. Works great, all automatic. And yes you want the pump to push rather than pull. I just got thru pulling the mechanical pump off the engine and blocked off the opening. The mechanical pump was leaking fuel into the block and I was not getting much flow to my triples. I'm now looking to do a dual pump setup in the rear, maybe as a backup in case the main pump were to fail.

There both ok but but there not Top Gear. Why do these guys think thay can do a better Top Gear, it's not going to happen, ever. The problem is nobody in Hollywood can put together an original idea. Remake this remake that, copy, copy, copy.

It depends on the pressure of the pump, needs to be low. The return line does help with vapor lock.

They make a lot of noise too. A good size radiator is the key. I have one of the MSA 4 core radiators brass and copper. I never get past the mid way point on the gauge, even on a hot day and standing still. I'm using a stock plastic fan.

I know about the jet changes, emo tubes and such but for some reason these 6 cylinder are weird. The tuning books all call for around 36 or 38 mm chokes based on a 2.8. What I see are our 2.8's are running around 32 to 34mm. With these carbs, you need to tune them with jets and emo tube according to the amount of air your pushing thru them (too much air and they develop flat spots). That's why I ask the question.

Running a 2.8 mild cam, headers, and 40mm, I just opened up the chokes from 30 to 32 and it seems to be better than before. Just need to know if 32 is about right or do I need to open them up to 34 or 36. I only have one set so if I go to big I have to start looking to for new ones.

Check the exhaust port on #6. They wear thru to the water jacket below and that will dump water into the motor. I had the same thing happen to mine.

I will check that area again, thanks. The bulbs are good because the emergency flasher sets all of the off, I just don't get any turn signals at all. It could be the switch but every thing on the column is clean and in good working order, even my alarm when it arms itself flashes the blinker bulbs.

Ok, so the turn signals are not working on my 73. The electrical system is in good shape, everything lighting wise is working great but no turn signals. I have seen in other posts where the flasher unit is up under the streering colume and under the dash on the left side but I can't seen to find mine. When I hit the emergency flashers I'm getting the normal clicking but from the relay panel on the passenger side under the dash, just can't figure out which relay it is. Maybe it's a late design change that they did on the 260's, I'm not sure. I do know I don't see anything that looks like a regulare round flasher unit. Anyone out there seen this or knows where I can find it.

You might run out of strut travel, I know my Koni/Koni combo is giving me about 2" of travel. It's not that smooth on the street.

Just finished my first real road test and I have a couple of questions. I'm running a Hi Volume oil pump on Valvoline racing 20-50 for the zinc content. Is the normal oil pressure 80 psi because that's what I'm reading ? A question for you triple guys out there. I have an N42 with a E88 head, mild cam, headers, and 40 DHLA Dell's with 30 chokes on a Cannon manifold. It seems to pull hard to 4000 but above that in 4th I'm falling off. Do I need to go to 32 or 34 chokes ? What are you guys running ? Jet size seems to be ok, I had to bring it down from 140 to 130 because the plugs were reading rich.

Big Thanks

The alternator conversion works great, but I have a 73 with the fuel pump relay that stays on. I have done a toggle switch on the yellow power wire but this is not a great solution. I want to do a Bosch relay, that uses a switching wire from the on side of the ignition switch. I just can't figure out the Bosch relay. I think the yellow wire that feeds power to the FP relay should be wired 30 in and 87 out to the relay. Do I switch the Bosch on with 85 and ground 86 or the other way around.

The pump on the left is a proper mechanical pump for carb models, that bolts to the front of the motor on the right side if your cylinder head and cam allow it. That will give your carbs the correct pressure. The electric pump can be used as a booster pump and mounts in the rear in front of the fuel tank. You do not need more than 3 or 4 lbs of pressure, more than that is to much for the system. This is only a booster pump. If you use it as your main pump then again, no more that 2 to 4 lbs of pressure or you will overwhelm the carbs. I'm running triples and have a low pressure booster in the rear and mechanical up front and I am not having any problems with it. The 73 models had this setup to help with vapor lock problems. You are running carbs aren't you ?

Pic of the RallySports 70 vintage.

I pulled the Tokico springs out and replaced them with my Koni Rallysport springs. The Konis are interesting in that they are a lower verion of the Euro springs. The right front being a bit longer than the left, a few lbs stiffer, and just as low as the Tokicos. I still need to work the Koni struts in as there still very stiff, even on a 1 setting. I also did my Interpart TC kit. Now I have pure 70's suspension and all new.

-11 is a .43 gap. I thought .35 is the factory call out. That's why the standard plug is BP6ES or BPR6ES

Look at the MSA stuff, it's very good. As for the header, 6 into 2 is just about the same as 6 into 1 because the single 2 1/2 exhaust is going to require you end up with a single pipe anyway. The 6 into 1 has a nice bolt up flange on the end of the header and makes the install a lot easier.

Sway bars are factory, tank is a vacuum tank, get some more vacuum hose and follow it.

You might need to prime the lines. When I first did mine, I had to pull the line off the rear fuel filter I put in and siphon the gas into the filter before it would start to flow

Pinion Bearing

Do the sending unit before you put the tank back in. That damm O-ring can be tricky to get right once the tank is in and it might leak. Fill the tank with a 5 gallon fuel jug that way you can check for leaks at home before you fill it up at a station and find out you have a leak and you have to drive it home.

Did the upgrade and it's great but did anyone come up with a solution for the 73 models and the fuel pump reley problem. I saw where we should cut the wires and install a switch but isn't there a way to wire in a relay on the ON side of the ignition switch that would power the fuel pump relay. I'm not sure I want to mount a switch on the dash/center consual and them possibly forget to turn off the switch.